General Altima’s Tires

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Tobor

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I just had BelleTire swap out some Cooper Cobra tires that were scalped from alignment issues with some new General Altimax tires. Wow, they suck! I drove less than 25 miles and they are too squirmy on the road and seem to drift. Any ideas on what is going on? Any recommendation of what brand of tire I should swap these out for that would provide sure tracking, smooth ride and hug the road?
 
I just had BelleTire swap out some Cooper Cobra tires that were scalped from alignment issues with some new General Altimax tires. Wow, they suck! I drove less than 25 miles and they are too squirmy on the road and seem to drift. Any ideas on what is going on? Any recommendation of what brand of tire I should swap these out for that would provide sure tracking, smooth ride and hug the road?
What is the vehicle ?
And
Did you get the alignment issue fixed that ‘scalped’ the Cobra’s?
And
If the vehicle under discussion is a vintage A body and if the alignment issue was fixed by getting the car aligned to factory specifications. Modern radial tires will not be happy, the factory specifications were set around the bias ply tires of that era.
 
What is the vehicle ?
And
Did you get the alignment issue fixed that ‘scalped’ the Cobra’s?
And
If the vehicle under discussion is a vintage A body and if the alignment issue was fixed by getting the car aligned to factory specifications. Modern radial tires will not be happy, the factory specifications were set around the bias ply tires of that era.




1968 Dart GT convertible. 215/70R14. I have had the steel wheels cold pressed to factory specs, the pitman arm and the idler arm replaced with a wheel alignment, all within the last 2 years or less. I had a vibration at 50 mph that was bothersome and was told by 2 different tire stores that the tires are scalped and can’t be balanced. Now, these guys are telling me I have a bad idler arm and they couldn’t do a front end alignment. If I had to throw a stink eye at any of this , it is these young guys at Belle Tire and these tires. I have had the car for 5 years and initially, the Cobras were fine.
 
Tires can be shaved.

My 67 dart has a left front wheel wobble at between 35 and 50. I'm assuming lower ball joint, lower pivot, upper idler bushings worn out.

BUT

My dad noted in his log books back in 67 that there was a vibration at about the same speed. That was with bias ply tires of the day.

Idler arm is easy to diagnose, loose at the frame or loose at the cross link. Have someone turn the wheel back And forth looking for movement.
 
WTF does "the tires are scalped" mean anyway? Could any less of an automotive word be used to describe that?

And you really answered the fist question, didn't you?

When was the car aligned LAST? Maybe that will get a specific enough answer. General was bought out by Continental a little while back and their quality has actually improved greatly. Were I to have the "stinkeye" whatever the hell that is for anything, it sure as hell wouldn't be the tires.....but the total lack of experience.
 
1968 Dart GT convertible. 215/70R14. I have had the steel wheels cold pressed to factory specs, the pitman arm and the idler arm replaced with a wheel alignment, all within the last 2 years or less. I had a vibration at 50 mph that was bothersome and was told by 2 different tire stores that the tires are scalped and can’t be balanced. Now, these guys are telling me I have a bad idler arm and they couldn’t do a front end alignment. If I had to throw a stink eye at any of this , it is these young guys at Belle Tire and these tires. I have had the car for 5 years and initially, the Cobras were fine.
Along with Rusty’s question, what does it mean that you ‘had the steel wheels cold pressed to factory specs’.
 
WTF does "the tires are scalped" mean anyway? Could any less of an automotive word be used to describe that?

And you really answered the fist question, didn't you?

When was the car aligned LAST? Maybe that will get a specific enough answer. General was bought out by Continental a little while back and their quality has actually improved greatly. Were I to have the "stinkeye" whatever the hell that is for anything, it sure as hell wouldn't be the tires.....but the total lack of experience.
“total lack of experience”?
 
Along with Rusty’s question, what does it mean that you ‘had the steel wheels cold pressed to factory specs’.
2 years ago and after hitting a chuckhole, it caused a bent rim. The wheel repair service offered at an alignment shop was to use a hydraulic press to bend the wheel back to its’ original form.
 
WTF does "the tires are scalped" mean anyway? Could any less of an automotive word be used to describe that?

And you really answered the fist question, didn't you?

When was the car aligned LAST? Maybe that will get a specific enough answer. General was bought out by Continental a little while back and their quality has actually improved greatly. Were I to have the "stinkeye" whatever the hell that is for anything, it sure as hell wouldn't be the tires.....but the total lack of experience.
The car received an alignment 2 years ago and at the time I had the idler arm replaced. The guys who just replaced my tires are telling me that I need a new idler arm.
 
The car received an alignment 2 years ago and at the time I had the idler arm replaced. The guys who just replaced my tires are telling me that I need a new idler arm.

Have him show you where it’s loose. Just telling you is just another way to sell extra stuff that you might not need!
 
The car received an alignment 2 years ago and at the time I had the idler arm replaced. The guys who just replaced my tires are telling me that I need a new idler arm.
Tobor, maybe you should post where you are located. Perhaps some FABO member is familiar with that area and could recommend a competent alignment shop for you to take your car to for a front end inspection and alignment.
As mentioned earlier search this site for the ‘skosh’ chart. That chart gives guidance for what a 60’s A body running modern radial tires should be aligned to. Take a copy of that chart to the recommended shop in your area and verify that is what they are doing.
For your own piece of mind after an alignment always get a written record of the alignment settings that were put on your car. The same goes for components that a shop says need replacing, have them walk you out to your car and have them show you and explain to you the issue.
Also be advised that a competent alignment shop may charge more for an alignment than the box store tire dealers. This is one of those deals where you do get what you pay for.
 
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The car received an alignment 2 years ago and at the time I had the idler arm replaced. The guys who just replaced my tires are telling me that I need a new idler arm.

A few things you might need to know.
Scalloped is also called cupping and can be caused by alignment issues, bad shocks or balance of the tires.
Drifting can also be caused by alignment as well worn parts.
I didn’t see any mention of possible worn lower control arm bushings.
My Dart would darn near change lanes on it’s own when I first got it because of those bushings.

As mentioned above there are alignment specs for radial tires and if there isn’t enough caster it can also cause drifting.

I have also seen pitman arms that sucked right out of the box.
AND they can be installed in a way that causes them to be loose when new.
 
Rather than relying on someone to tell you if there is a problem, jack the car up, crawl under it & do a complete inspection of the entire front suspension. Check for deterioration of all of the bushings, check for excessive play in any of the other suspension parts & pieces.
 
Screenshot_20210410-122747.png


Right out of the 67 service manual
 
The car received an alignment 2 years ago and at the time I had the idler arm replaced. The guys who just replaced my tires are telling me that I need a new idler arm.

Two years is a long time to go without an alignment.

And yes "total lack of experience" translates to "find another alignment shop".
 
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