'67 Dart GT wiring question

-
MPH426

MPH426

Active Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2019
Messages
37
Reaction score
18
Location
South East Michigan
I "need" to rewire my Dart. The previous owner was not electrically incline. As it sits now, while driving, when I hit the brakes, the brake lights do come on... but so do the front turn signals and fender mounted signal indicators as well. No turn signals, no interior or dash lights.

That said, the car started life as a 273 six banger. It now has a very well built 340. It was pretty much stripped of any creature comforts to be a drag racer. My goal is to get it "somewhat" street-able again.

My dilemma is which harness to get. I actually think a '67 273 harness would be fine as the only electrical connections (that I can think of) to the motor are the starter and alternator, all else should be the same.

Any input would be appreciated.
 
That should do it. 6 vs 8 has wire length differences

Two things to keep in mind is many aftermarket wire harnesses for a 67 are designed for electric dist ( no points) and electric 2 field wire alternator.
 
OP make sure the hazard flasher which is a toggle switch on the dash, is not turned on

Example: If the hazard flasher or fuse is gone/ blown, and the switch is on, it will do as you describe
 
67Dart273 said:
OP make sure the hazard flasher which is a toggle switch on the dash, is not turned on

Example: If the hazard flasher or fuse is gone/ blown, and the switch is on, it will do as you describe
Click to expand...

THANKS!!! It was on. That took care of one problem... 999 to go! The turn signals now work albeit manually, but that's 99.9% better than before. 8^)
 
MPH426 said:
The turn signals now work albeit manually
Click to expand...
As in they do not automatically turn off when you turn the wheel straight, or you have to turn them on off on off on off to make them blink
 
Last edited:
Dana67Dart said:
As in they do not automatically turn off when you turn the wheel straight, or you have to turn them on off on off on off to make them blink
Click to expand...
I have to blink them manually, on/off, repeat as necessary. The blinker arm does return to center when the steering wheel returns. It's not a bad relay, I already changed that. Again, it's better than before, for now, I'm good with it.

At least I can stop using hand signals. Heck, I don't think many people even know what they are anymore.
 
Last edited:
MPH426 said:
I have to blink them manually, on/off, repeat as necessary. The blinker arm does return to center when the steering wheel returns. It's not a bad relay, I already changed that. Again, it's better than before, for now, I'm good with it.

At least I can stop using hand signals. Heck, I don't think many people even know what they are anymore.
Click to expand...
Well, the “blinker arm” is solidly connected to the self-cancel tangs on the turn signal switch, so if the signals themselves wont cancel, the blinker arm cant be returning to center off.
 
Last edited:
65Val said:
Well, the “blinker arm” is solidly connected to the self-cancel tangs, so if the signals themselves wont cancel, the blinker arm cant be returning to center off.
Click to expand...
I've noticed that the front signals aren't working at all. Might it be there's not enough draw to make the relay work?
 
Did you put leds in?

I was changing the front grill and while it and the turn signals were out the rear turn signals would not blink. I reconnected a ground wire and that was all that was needed
 
Dana67Dart said:
Did you put leds in?
Click to expand...

No, but I did replace both front turn signals with OE bulbs. The do light up, but don't blink. The person I bought it from was quite emphatic about apologizing for the wiring. He said "I really %^#$'d up on that. All the more reason for re-wiring the whole thing. LOL
 
MPH426 said:
No, but I did replace both front turn signals with OE bulbs. The do light up, but don't blink. The person I bought it from was quite emphatic about apologizing for the wiring. He said "I really %^#$'d up on that. All the more reason for re-wiring the whole thing.
Click to expand...
Buy a new M&H underhood harness from Year One.
 
You are aware that there are 2 flasher united in A Bodies. Depending on year one ( turn signal) is under dashtobtje passenger side of the cig lighter.

The other (e flasher) is under the dash to the left of the e brake
 
Dana67Dart said:
You are aware that there are 2 flasher united in A Bodies. Depending on year one ( turn signal) is under dashtobtje passenger side of the cig lighter.

The other (e flasher) is under the dash to the left of the e brake
Click to expand...

No, I was not aware. Thanks, I'll check it out.
 
MPH426 said:
No, I was not aware. Thanks, I'll check it out.
Click to expand...
I found the second relay, both test good. I.E. less than an ohm with 0 volts, and they work as they should when 12V is applied.
I then tested the wiring to both relay sockets and neither are seeing any voltage at any time. The only time the signals actually "work" is with the brakes on. Then the turn signal turns off the light as it should. I'm going to re-cover the front seats whenever the materials get here. I'll look deeper into it when the seats are out.
Thanks all for the help.
 
How are you testing the blinker mechanisms?

They are electro mechanical devices and must have a proper load to function.

Also post some photos of the blinker mechanisms you found.

If you haven't yet go to classiccarwiring.com and order a wiring diag 11x17 is perfect size. You will agree it is the best money you will have ever spent.

You mention no volts at the sockets, was the key in the on position?
 
Dana67Dart said:
They are electro mechanical devices and must have a proper load to function.
Click to expand...
With dissimilar pieces of metal back to back so the expand at different rates, I get it.

I hooked the relays up to a 12V power source and even at 200mA you can hear the clicking of the circuit being broken and connected over and over, they work. The problem appears to be that the turn signal circuit isn't isn't wired properly as no current goes thru it at any time. That said, this now makes me wonder how it's turning off the brake light when the turn signal is activated. I can manually make it look like a working signal by engaging and dis-engaging it.

Dana67Dart said:
If you haven't yet go to classiccarwiring.com and order a wiring diag 11x17 is perfect size. You will agree it is the best money you will have ever spent.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I'll order it as soon as it's off back order. They won't take paypal for back ordered items. I did order the 67 Dart Wiring manual as well.

Dana67Dart said:
You mention no volts at the sockets, was the key in the on position
Click to expand...
Yes, it's the only way they work.

Like I said in my earlier post, I've go new material coming in to re-cover the seats. I'll dig into the wiring more when the cabin is empty.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top