my slant buildup

well... crank, rear main seal, rods and pistons are in. found 1 of my magnetic block dial indicators, and found TDC, measured pistons "in the hole" with the stinger that comes out from a 6" dial caliper (my son has a depth mike but can't find right now) and looks like even with a 30-thou deck shave the pistons are still right at .180-in-the-hole.... The machine shop originally took a minimal "cleanup cut" off the deck, they forgot I wanted more shaved off right off the bat.... when I talked to them late in their machine work, I asked if they had done as I asked. They did, but not to the extent I had asked. so they supposedly put it back in the jig, and took it down to a 30-thou deck shave. All I know for sure, is that the stamping by #1 cylinder that ID's the engine as a 225, ain't there no more. so they took off at least enough, to wipe that out///// but that means that if I hadn't checked on them, and asked them again to mill the block/ that I would have ended up with a short block at .210" in the hole? YIKES!
I wonder what the height of the block is vs what blueprint spec calls for.... if the block was that "long" on tolerance, or if the piston compression height on the replacement pistons is off from where it should be? At any rate, I'm not really wanting to dismantle it all for another trip thru the machine shop..... Ill have them make it up on the head

With an Aussie head gasket, a "typical" #447 casting number head, and a 0.020 O/S bore, anyone want to venture a guess on how much I'll need to have them shave the head to get a true 8.7-8.8:1 CR??? or should I go back to one of my "project creep" ideas and go for the junkyard turbo?

I did find my cylinder taper gauge, gonna have to set that and check them on the machine work to be sure it is right..... though the feeler gauge check and ring gap check says it should be.....