1970 Plymouth Duster Project

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G70-14:
235/60-14
205/70-14
205/80-14

Still looking for info on the G50-14
 
I removed the two heater hoses coming out of the water pump today and added two 3/8" NPT plugs ($2.10) Looks cleaner

I also looked at the passenger side of the block and found these numbers:
25364305
3 . 31 . 67

Anyone inform me what these mean?
 
Can anyone any also help me out..........I want to replace the fuel pump, since I have the alternator off

I have a Edelbrock #1723 to swap in.........

Is it as simple as removing the bolts and removing the stock pump and gasket?
 
Motor info:
25364305
3 . 31 . 67

Here is what I see on the pad:
D 440 (Celtic or German cross symbol?) B
7 31
 
Can anyone any also help me out..........I want to replace the fuel pump, since I have the alternator off

I have a Edelbrock #1723 to swap in.........

Is it as simple as removing the bolts and removing the stock pump and gasket?

Pretty much that simple. Big blocks have a fuel pump pushrod that runs off of a cam eccentric. You need to make sure that pump pushrod is pushed back up towards the cam before you slide the new fuel pump arm in place. The fuel pump pushrod should not be able to fall out. It will only drop down so far, and stop. If for whatever reason you did need to take it out and replace it, there is an allen plug in the motor, right below the fuel pump hole. You can take that plug out and the fuel pump pushrod will slide right out. This will all make more sense when you're standing there looking at it. Good luck.
 
Thanks for the info......I need to mount it and see if I need to clock the housing at all

Then need to order some hose barb fittings for the inlet and an unknown AN size for the outlet (to connect to the dual feed line for the carb

What AN size is commonly use?
 
what size is your fuel line? -6 is 3/8" and -8 is 1/2"
 
Thanks for that info!........they are 5/16 now but will be upgraded to 3/8" going into the pump

I will get a -6AN fitting for the line going out of the pump
 
Got the new fuel pump installed....thanks for the info

The pump push rod slide down to the access allen cap head plug (possibly when removing the stock pump)

I removed the plug and pushed it in as far as it would go and then installed the new pump

Time to shop for a fuel line kit now, a new tank, and sending unit
 
I also sent out my mystery carb to Woodruff Carb (FABO vendor) for a complete cleaning and rebuild
 
New battery installed.........Group size 24F

New starter (mini) from a V8 Dakota installed..........along with a cover

Now I am going to start pulling plugs, wires and the stock distributor...........since I have all new MSD goodies to install, along with a 6AL box

Woodruff said my carb will be done in about 2 weeks
 
I cant wait to get my carb back from Woodruff

I am blown away at how awesome this shop is............and I had no idea what goes into to selecting or rebuilding a carb

They called today and asked about the car, the motor, the rear end, and the trans......all to tune and adjust the carb?!?!.........again, had no idea. Thought it was a buy, bolt on, and go part.

Highly recommended and I am so glad shops like this still exist
 
Did I install the springs and linkages correctly???

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Got the oil changed and was able to find a radiator overflow tank

Have the full MSD ignition installed, wires, coil, distributor, and 6AL box

Battery and battery tie tie down in installed

Hoping to drop the gas tank and pull the factory fuel lines this week

New front tires, 205/70R14 have been ordered

My goal is to have it started and running before 2022

Then work on the front and rear brakes and find some rear tires by March 2022 to see how it does on the road

The rear 8-3/4" axle is leaking also, so I need to research how to fix the diff fluid leak
 
Rear diff isn't leaking anymore

The housing bolts were just all loose
 
I think I am just going to buy some material and use spray adhesive on my trunk divider panel

It's still in good shape but appears to be plain and uncovered board
 
Cool project!
You mentioned in your first post that you found a set of 4.30 gears under the seats. Are they in good shape?
I'm currently putting together a '69 Dart with a 360 small block and have 4.30 gears for my 8.75. My Dart is going to be mainly for street/highway weekend use.
Let me guess, your eyebrows just shot up when I said 4.30 gears on the highway. That's right - because I had a 200-4R OD 4-speed auto built for the car. The 200-4R has a 0.67 OD that will make my 4.30 gears seem like 2.88s when on the freeway.
Something to maybe think about for the future for your BB Duster? Give Extreme Automatics in Ohio (www.extremeautomatics.com) a call if you want more info.
 
I found 4.30s yes.......

However it appears as if half the bolts broke off or are sheared off on the ring gear
 
Going to recover this panel with something

Factory color was Rallye Red based on fender tag
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