Is there a low profile water pump for a 360?

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I have a good electric fan on it now and it’s still overheating. A shroud won’t fit with the electric fan.

Define "good". And a shroud will fit. It doesn't touch the fan. It goes around it.
 
Yeah the other fans that are stronger are thicker fans and they wouldn’t work. What was the fan you suggested?
Also is that bottom outlet hose too long going to the water pump? I was thinking that was one of the reasons it was overheating. The hoses are too long.
 
Yeah the other fans that are stronger are thicker fans and they wouldn’t work. What was the fan you suggested?

Again, you do not have to mount the fan with the motor aligned with the water pump pulley. You have TONS of room for a GOOD fan. Mount it so the motor is offset from the water pump pulley. I didn't suggest a specific fan, only "something" that moves around 4000 CFM.
 
Again, you do not have to mount the fan with the motor aligned with the water pump pulley. You have TONS of room for a GOOD fan. Mount it so the motor is offset from the water pump pulley. I didn't suggest a specific fan, only "something" that moves around 4000 CFM.
I can’t find a fan with 4000 cfm. I looked on eBay and Amazon.
 
"I can't"

There's your problem right there. Like they say where I come from, "Caint never could". Good God man, you've got the same internet I do. Summit Racing has a PILE of fans in that CFM range.

Does the car still cool back off going down the road?
 
"I can't"

There's your problem right there. Like they say where I come from, "Caint never could". Good God man, you've got the same internet I do. Summit Racing has a PILE of fans in that CFM range.

Does the car still cool back off going down the road?
Yes it cools back off when I’m driving.
 
@67DodgeDart360 I would suggest going to a flex fan, no clutch. Here is one I purchased at a local Oreillys just to test on my run stand. If it works for you in keeping your car cool, then I would be looking for a STOCK 5 bladed Mopar fan. The fan is a plastic/nylon... I would not suggest using it forever, only as a testing tool, it draws a lot of air through the radiator at idle speeds.

Screenshot (37).png
 
Yeah the cars had a 340 or 318 and the motor was farther back.
It has to do with what year it was built, not the displacement. Specifically, engines up through model year '69 cars had the shorter cast iron water pump. They also had a fan with the blades notched to better clear the 'bubble top' radiators.

With a fixed blade fan (or flex fan) there are a variety of spacers to position the fan distance from the radiator.
For a clutch fan, the options have been laid out above.
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Some dimensions here Fan clutch bushing question

Square top radiator made to work in a '67 along with a '68 radiator with a '70 bottom tank which replaced that setup.
340 radiator
 
You could switch to a 67- 68 timming cover and cast iron water pump, a bit sorter. Or as 67dart273 said move to fan to one side.

OR you could got rid of the BS cross flow aluminum radiator and electric fan and get an oem copper brass rad, mechanical fan and oem shroud and start enjoying your car.

Heres the setup Dana67 Dart is referring to. I have it in my 68 Cuda with a 360 Magnum converted to early timing chain cover etc..Works perfectly.

DSCN5096.JPG
 
LA 273,318,340,360, all the same size block
That's what I don't got about this post.

The factory fit everything in there just fine. The trans and engine mounts would set the for and aft location of the engine.

Is there any way to put them in backwards moving the engine forward?
 
That's what I don't got about this post.

The factory fit everything in there just fine. The trans and engine mounts would set the for and aft location of the engine.

Is there any way to put them in backwards moving the engine forward?

Maybe the motor mount brackets on the wrong side of the ears on the block?
 
Yeah the cars had a 340 or 318 and the motor was farther back. If it was back a inch more I wouldn’t have this issue. The engine is all the way back on the engine mounts.

That's what I don't got about this post.

The factory fit everything in there just fine. The trans and engine mounts would set the for and aft location of the engine.

Is there any way to put them in backwards moving the engine forward?

Maybe the motor mount brackets on the wrong side of the ears on the block?

The OP has two threads fired up on this issue and refuses to believe anything any of us have suggested OP needs to re-read both threads start to finish, sit down, drink some non-caffine and do some serious thinking about what has been said
 
Well first off, just not liking the OP's choice of radiator, a cross flow and no expansion tank, as you can see in ALL the pictures in this thread each one has an expansion tank. Dodge cooling systems are not pressurized under normal operating conditions. Steam is formed in the expansion tank and is vented out into the air via radiator cap valve into the overflow tube. When the temperature does increase under heavy use, more water flow, more pockets of steam...the radiator cap closes and pressurizing the system. In no other word, if you cannot squeeze the upper hose when the engine reaches operating temps at idle you have issues...
 
See a few things wrong here right off the bat, looking down from the top.

That radiator has the inlet and outlet are on the wrong opposite sides for the small block A body cars.

Screenshot_20210415-135342_Chrome.jpg


Then there is an upside down P-Trap in the upper hose before it gets to the radiator. Hot water rising out of the opening thermostat and hangs up in the P-Trap hose.

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That can't be good for cooling, not to mention the long snaky hose on the bottom.

Don't understand why people don't put the correct stock style radiator in them with the 7 blade mopar clutch fan setup to cool it properly, they move the air. It will blow the hat right off your head when walking by the driver's side fender.

☆☆☆
 
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I don’t think the long hoses or humps in them really matter. The hoses get hot, so they are dissipating a little heat. The system is pressurized at operational temperature, so as long as the bottom hose does not collapse, water will move. Just an opinion....
 
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