3/8 sender pick up tube conversion

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dodgy

dodgy

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Hi all, today i got enough parts together to convert my sender to 3/8, from the old 5/16 tube.
I had done this around 25 years ago to another car after reading a mopar mag with the write up on it.
Not sure if anyone still does this today with all the options available in fuel systems.
So basically the old tube is de soldered, a gas torch and shop air is your pal here,
Remove tube and open up the hole to your new tube size ,I done this with a tapered podgy bar, you don't want to drill it, you need the shoulder for support and for the solder to wick into.
Bend up your new tube to suit and check it in place in the tank to check that it's right before soldering, mark the tube and plate so you know the depth and clocking of the tube.
I will be using a 6AN weld on fitting to attach the fuel line as opposed to the push on line, so i had to drill the fitting for the tube, i also filed two flats so i could get a spanner on it.
Part two to come.

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i tried converting my 1/4 return to a 5/16 a few times, and failed miserable each time

(using different types of bulkhead connectors)
 
Thanks for posting this. For us "non Auzzies" you might explain what a "podgy bar" is (I suspect an awl) and also post what you did about preserving/ re-sealing the electrical terminal.
 
Thanks for the interest guys, the tube is 3/8 stainless steel bundy and i will be using a silver solder brazing rod, The electrical connection will be modified somewhat from factory, i will get to this in part two.

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As i said in the above post
3/8" stainless steel tube and i used a brazing solder rod that i discovered in my late father's tool's, I'm new to this type of weld and it is my first attempt at using it (the other one i did i had a mate handle the soldering and yes he melted the insulator), I discovered that i could have used a bit more heat before i applied the rod but i think it didn't turn out to bad.
Part three will be about the resister card and sender wire terminal.
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Last edited:
Finnish and tested and gets the green tick.
On these senders the send wire is insulated from the body ground, the factory did this with a nylon washer on the outside , rubber and a fibrous washer on the inside held together with a copper brass rivet. So what i did here is replace the rivet with a 3mm ss button head screw and nylock nut and a little thread sealant to prevent fuel from following the thread path out, replaced the resistor card and buttoned it up.
I also had some outside washers 3d printed out of different materials for testing and future projects, nylon and resin has held up to fuel but the ASA failed.

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Kendog 170 said:
Good stuff so far . Nice work .Thanks
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No problem, it was one of them little jobs that needed doing , i have gone without a working fuel gauge in this car for the last 20 years and with the V8 conversion the fuel system needed replacing from one to the other.
 
Also while working out what i needed to fix i noticed there is adjustability in the fuel gauge itself, here is two VDO fuel gauges for my model car, they have two holes that go through the back of the gauge that you adjust the sweep of the needle i assume. I left it how it was in the gauge i used as it was calibrated right. The other gauge i need to replace the Tantalum capacitor (that blue blob with the one leg blown off).

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dodgy said:
Kendog, what's the problem with your aftermarket 3/8 sender?
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dollars to donuts it is the way the gauge reads, none of the aftermarket sending units have the correct read out
 
Yes. Reads full for a while then gets to half then drops real fast. It does run out exactly on E so I cant complain too much. My other Dart has a fuel cell that works but read exactly backwards E is full and F empty.
 
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