Not getting 12 volts to coil
Ypou're going in the right direction. So far I don't see a need to replace anything. A little more testing will narrow down any resistance of concern.
10.5 Volts at Batt 1 (Red) and (blue) on the column connector during start may be OK. Its OK assuming there is no current flowing through the ballast resistor.
10.5 Volts at Batt 1(Red) and the (brown) 14 ga wire during start is great. It shows there is no resistance through the start connections in the ignition switch.
Let's illustrate that:
All of the voltage measurements are to ground.
It's likely the battery voltage with the starter turning is also around 10.5 Volts. You'll have to measure that.
The starter solenoid and motor draw so much current that the battery voltage always drops somewhat.
If you suspect there is resistance at the bulkead connector, the battery and alternator connections can be tested using the examples in my earlier post.
Once you know those are OK, you can check for resistance between the alternator output and the ignition run circuit.
With the engine running, the voltage at the alternator output terminal (Batt) and the blue J2 wire should be the same.
If the choke is equipped with an electric assist, that could draw some additional current during warm up. Even so, the circuit's voltage should be very close to the supply voltage.
Ypou're going in the right direction. So far I don't see a need to replace anything. A little more testing will narrow down any resistance of concern.
That I can't help on. I know at least some years there were several printings of service manuals. The 1970 Plymouth Service Manual with the diagrams above is the digitized version I got from mymopar.com
This is really important. You did write that in your opening post. My fault for not following up or being clear about this.
I ignored the apparent mislabling of the Ignition 1 and 2 on the connector drawing because my focus was on the checking for resistance between the main splice and the battery and alternator.
10.5 Volts at Batt 1 (Red) and (blue) on the column connector during start may be OK. Its OK assuming there is no current flowing through the ballast resistor.
10.5 Volts at Batt 1(Red) and the (brown) 14 ga wire during start is great. It shows there is no resistance through the start connections in the ignition switch.
Let's illustrate that:
All of the voltage measurements are to ground.
It's likely the battery voltage with the starter turning is also around 10.5 Volts. You'll have to measure that.
The starter solenoid and motor draw so much current that the battery voltage always drops somewhat.
If you suspect there is resistance at the bulkead connector, the battery and alternator connections can be tested using the examples in my earlier post.
Once you know those are OK, you can check for resistance between the alternator output and the ignition run circuit.
With the engine running, the voltage at the alternator output terminal (Batt) and the blue J2 wire should be the same.
If the choke is equipped with an electric assist, that could draw some additional current during warm up. Even so, the circuit's voltage should be very close to the supply voltage.
