Not getting 12 volts to coil

Mattax said
For the locations with a plastic connector housing a thin probe into the back of the connector until it touches the metal terminal.

In most cases it doesn't need to be a super thin probe, just a standard one will generally do.
A couple of terminals have rubber on them to better seal against moisture. Usually R6 and A1 going into the firewall connector. So I usually skip those locations and go to the next nearest location.

On the column connector on your car, I'm not sure how much room there is to backprobe.

Begin with the easierto access locations.
View attachment 1715727086

Battery positive, Alternator output stud, Alt field J2 (backprobe).
Inside for the firewall connectors - although maybe on your car access is difficult - on mine its not (other than body mechanics!)
Click to expand...
Mattax said
For the locations with a plastic connector housing a thin probe into the back of the connector until it touches the metal terminal.

In most cases it doesn't need to be a super thin probe, just a standard one will generally do.
A couple of terminals have rubber on them to better seal against moisture. Usually R6 and A1 going into the firewall connector. So I usually skip those locations and go to the next nearest location.

On the column connector on your car, I'm not sure how much room there is to backprobe.

Begin with the easierto access locations.
View attachment 1715727086

Battery positive, Alternator output stud, Alt field J2 (backprobe).
Inside for the firewall connectors - although maybe on your car access is difficult - on mine its not (other than body mechanics!)
Click to expand...

Wrecks: now It's starting to make sense. I did not know about backprobing. You opened up a whole new world. Yes, I can get access to the column connectors. Measuring the current coming in and going out under crank should tell me if the switch is bad in both run and crank modes. My feeling is that the current will be less than 10.5 going to the ingition switch while cranking, which means cleaning/replacing the connectors, or checking the splice area. The two nuts holding the red and black ammeter wires look clean. I really appreciate your help. It makes me feel funny to take stuff apart under the dash that has not been moved since 1969.