67DodgeDart360
Well-Known Member
Today the damn hood fall down right on my head. Not sure if there is anything out there that will work. Is there a hood support rod for a 67-69 Dodge Dart?
It stays up for the most part but if it’s windy it will push it closed.No, there is a coil spring on both the hinge assemblies located inside the fenders. You might have a broken spring or it popped off. Sometimes the hinges themselves come off the body. I used some hammer on retaining clips to hold mine tighter.
Lol that’s what I been using. I just would like to have something that looks a little better. Yeah I might look for something online.A piece of 2x2 about 4 feet long. LOL
Actually, those hoods had springs, so there was not a hood rod from the factory. You have two choices: 1) Replace the hinges with rebuilt ones or used ones. I had mine rebuilt, and they looked and work great; and 2) jury rig some sort of a hood rod.
The springs are not the best. The hood will stay up but a little wind will push it shut. I don’t want to take off the fenders to change out the hood springs but I guess that might be my only option.I think you lost a spring. Mine is strong and I'm always afraid of bending the hood when I close it.
When open does the hood have a slight twist to it? The low side would be the side I would be looking at first.
The hinges are most easily accessable with the fender off, second with the dust shield at the rear of the front inner fender off and least through the open door if at all.
See if you can find a prop rod from a Dakota Pick up. It might be the right size and a couple small bolts to bolt it on. Just a suggestion.The springs are not the best. The hood will stay up but a little wind will push it shut. I don’t want to take off the fenders to change out the hood springs but I guess that might be my only option.
I’ll look into that. thanksSee if you can find a prop rod from a Dakota Pick up. It might be the right size and a couple small bolts to bolt it on. Just a suggestion.
The springs are not the best. The hood will stay up but a little wind will push it shut. I don’t want to take off the fenders to change out the hood springs but I guess that might be my only option.
That is exactly what mine were doing. I found a place that completely rebuilt them to like new specs. If I remember right is was about $200 about 7 years ago.Sometimes its not the spring but the hinge assembly. Mine we're worn badly and I had to find a better set. They begin to bow outwards when closing the hood then can just come off the body, so you might pull the inner fenders or a least look in the hinge hole and see what is going on because you could be heading to a bigger problem if one comes off.
Here's a picture of my 1970 Swinger. Mine was never rusted, so I can't compare them to what you have. You must remove the front fender to get to these. If you go through that, either rebuild or replace them so yourView attachment 1715726876 grandson will know how to do it again, in 50 years.
I didn't know it could be done without removing the fender. Thanks. My original fender was damaged when an out of control car hit my garage at 40 MPH with a pedestrian on the hood. It killed the pedestrian and hit me hard after going through the wall, and a full sized refrigerator, freezer, and a shelving unit. I happened to be standing in front of the 'fridge. She didn't have PIP. The only thing her insurance paid for was the repop fender. AMD, high quality. I kept the fender, as I believe it can be repaired, the body shop said it was cheaper to get the AMD. I'll inspect mine thoroughly while it's off. Thanks for the spring mount tips.
I just saw your new post. Thank You. I'll give it a try on my passengers side. I made a new one out of high quality tar paper and new retaining staples for my driver's side. Once again, thank you to a member. What a useful site.Dang. Yea, I removed mine by just removing the splash shield, then popping off the speed nuts that hold the hing onto the stud. Then I reinstalled the hinges and used a socket the same size as the speed nut and tapped them onto the stud with a hammer. Worked fine.
There is quite a bit of room in there when the splash shield is off.