My 360 Engine is running reverse once turn off.

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67DodgeDart360

67DodgeDart360

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Why is my 360 Engine running back wards once I turn it off. It only does it when it’s hot. The car starts right up when I turn the key so I didn’t think it would be the timing off. I had a mechanic set the timing but I know now that doesn’t mean ****.
 
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Never heard of a car motor doing it but on my 2 stroke motorcycles if you set the timing to far advanced on the twin cylinder ones they can sometimes run backwards
 
I was taught the same. Timing is to far advanced. I also heard of it being a potential compression issue
 
Timing and heat in carb. Can you run a small phenolic spacer under the carb? And time to get your own timing light.
 
lenky1 said:
I was taught the same. Timing is to far advanced. I also heard of it being a potential compression issue
Click to expand...
No, retarded. It was common "back in the day" for the smog era engines to "run on" and "diesel" on shutdown. 71ish---on up just before EFI in about 85

Check timing do not retard it. Make sure carb adjustment screws are not too lean (or too rich either) Run as much timing as you can and recurve the dist or buy one of the "limiter plate" kits
 
Idle is set too high.

Don't know if you remember but some carbs used to have an electric solenoid that would retract and slow the idle stop back so it quits allowing the engine to draw in fuel and air once the key is shut off.
 
Running backwards? is that even possible?
It would have to be pulling air in from the exhaust system, and blowing it out the carb. It's gotta be 12 ft or so from the tailpipe to the manifolds..... and it's all full of inert gasses at shut-down. So
my answer is; Are you sure it's "running" in reverse?

Dieseling is just run-on in the normal direction.
and like George said almost always caused by the throttle being too far open, which is usually because the timing is retarded.
Fix the timing, close the throttle, and the problem goes away.
 
valiantwagonguy said:
Never heard of a car motor doing it but on my 2 stroke motorcycles if you set the timing to far advanced on the twin cylinder ones they can sometimes run backwards
Click to expand...
Could be...
Too much initial timing
A hair too little octane
Or... something simple like the carburetor needs adjusting 'idling on the main circuit'
 
valiantwagonguy said:
Never heard of a car motor doing it but on my 2 stroke motorcycles if you set the timing to far advanced on the twin cylinder ones they can sometimes run backwards
Click to expand...
Seen guys at the starting line take off in reverse. Funny stuff. They run a little different like that.
 
- timing advanced too far [ especially after the mechanic 'adjusted' it ]
- high idle speed
- a lot of carbon build up in the chambers, red hot particles igniting the mixture after ign is turned off.
 
If you've ever seen an engine run on or "diesel" it's running backwads.
 
Curb idle rpm too high and/or overheating. I recall some 4 cyl. having anti diesel solenoid on the carb. One that would push the throttle to wide open at switch off.
Reverse rotation is not good for worn engine parts. Run hot, turn switch off, engine turns backward and timing chain jumps, valves get bent. Bad day. Such was the case of my AMC 232 6 cyl. Ran very hot while crawling along to parking spot At Carowinds Park. It was about 10:30 pm when I found out we had a problem.
 
1st clue: if it's running at all after the ignition is turned off the engine is too HOT. Weather it's rotating forward or back.
 
Most of the time it's a result of not enough initial timing which cascades into crutches in other systems, like the throttle blades too open to compensate (idle solenoid garbage to correct).

If the car doesn't start with the flick of the key, it's not likely got the right initial timing on it. Ever been to a mopar car show and heard gear reduction starters cranking for what seems like days while the driver has to floor the pedal to get them to start? Yep, that's another symptom.

JMO, if the engine doesn't have at least 14* of idle timing, it's probably a hampered tune up. Even stock 318's like 14*, add a hotter cam and the fun starts!
 
The lightest,most volatile gasoline components boil as low as 95*F. The heaviest are close to 400*.
The more IDLE-timing you give your engine, the faster it will idle. And vice versa; the less Idle-timing it has, the slower it will idle.
The only way to change what you got is to dick with the speed screw.
Or
The best idea is always and forever will be, to set the transfer-slot exposure below the primaries to between,
square to a lil taller than wide, set the mixture screws in the center of their range, then set the idlespeed with Idle-Timing, to in the range of 500 to 750
What actual numbers you target will depend on your combo.
Like @crackedback, and others say, 12 to 14* is a good starting point and without taking the carb off to look, will get you in the ballpark.

My 10.7Scr 367, pushing 180 psi
starts just fine even down at 8 or 10* advance, and running a minimum coolant temp of 207*F; click,vroom-vroom. I don't mess with the Transfer-slot exposure. I retard it electronically.
But I imagine if I only had 125psi, it would be a different story.
 
I have seen it on a boat bad! Would NOT stop, it was cooking! Yanked the coil wire, of course no luck. Cranked in on the idle speed screw, no luck. Finally sacrificed a work shirt covered the carb. Finally died. It was Soooo hot I had to get away from it!
 
......or a combustion chamber hot spot/red hot carbon particle is igniting the mixture.
 
"Kickback" is always timing.

Dieseling is almost always timing as well.
 
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