Single to dual M/C. Some specific queries
If you do not install the block that @Murray is talking about , ignoring the light feature for a second, then, there is almost no point to installing a dual-reservoir M/C.
1) you have to isolate the front and rear systems
2) you have to split the fronts to left and right. This has already been done for you by the factory
3) the dual piston M/C has two hydraulically separated chambers. that are interconnected by a third center chamber.One of the end chambers is connected to the front brakes and the other to the rear.
How it works
When everything is working right
You step on the pedal and the rearmost chamber drives the front chamber hydraulically thru the interconnecting chamber. Fluid goes out ,and the brakes apply.
Now
if either the front brakes fail or the rears fail, then fluid still goes out. But whichever end has failed does not apply the brakes on that end and instead, the fluid ends up on the ground.
But when one end suffers a fluid loss, something inside the M/C changes. The hydraulic chamber in the center no longer works, So instead, the manufacturer has designed one of the pistons with a button on it so that it can still reach the other piston.
However, the loss of the center chamber means that the pedal moves way lower in it's travel scaring the chit out of you. KEEP PRESSING!, the still working brake will eventually be activated.
Below is the valve @Murray is talking about. As the differential valve moves sideways, it covers and closes off the failed section. If it didn't do this, you would eventually pump all the fluid out of the failed-side reservoir.
The fact that this differential valve turns on the dash-light is somewhat irrelevant/redundant, because it is readily apparent that something has changed and your brain will tell you all about it.
Do you absolutely need it? I think yes because with the failed side closed, I think your pedal height would have to return after one or two brake applications.
If you do not install the block that @Murray is talking about , ignoring the light feature for a second, then, there is almost no point to installing a dual-reservoir M/C.
1) you have to isolate the front and rear systems
2) you have to split the fronts to left and right. This has already been done for you by the factory
3) the dual piston M/C has two hydraulically separated chambers. that are interconnected by a third center chamber.One of the end chambers is connected to the front brakes and the other to the rear.
How it works
When everything is working right
You step on the pedal and the rearmost chamber drives the front chamber hydraulically thru the interconnecting chamber. Fluid goes out ,and the brakes apply.
Now
if either the front brakes fail or the rears fail, then fluid still goes out. But whichever end has failed does not apply the brakes on that end and instead, the fluid ends up on the ground.
But when one end suffers a fluid loss, something inside the M/C changes. The hydraulic chamber in the center no longer works, So instead, the manufacturer has designed one of the pistons with a button on it so that it can still reach the other piston.
However, the loss of the center chamber means that the pedal moves way lower in it's travel scaring the chit out of you. KEEP PRESSING!, the still working brake will eventually be activated.
Below is the valve @Murray is talking about. As the differential valve moves sideways, it covers and closes off the failed section. If it didn't do this, you would eventually pump all the fluid out of the failed-side reservoir.
The fact that this differential valve turns on the dash-light is somewhat irrelevant/redundant, because it is readily apparent that something has changed and your brain will tell you all about it.
Do you absolutely need it? I think yes because with the failed side closed, I think your pedal height would have to return after one or two brake applications.
