360 Build suggestions

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C2ndLTpigeon

Mopar or no Car!
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So after spending some money trying to build a 318 and hearing the "you should just build a 360" opinion and I finally fell for it. I managed to pick up a 360 with 727 for a good deal to replace my 318-904 set up. This is a street car that needs some more power than the whiplash 318 im running.

I'm looking for a good build suggestion. It would be nice to have compression in the 9's I would like to keep costs down so I plan to use stock Iron heads with 1.88 1.60 valves with some port match and bowl clean up. Stock crank and rods are good for reuse.
Looking for piston options and cam options.
I have the following components that I plan to reuse with the 360: Headers, Protronix distributor, Performer air gap intake, edelbrock 600 (probably going to need bigger) and I cam running 3.55 gears in the rear.

Thanks!
 
Can you post the Whiplash cam card?

What is the goal for the car?
Mainly a street car, but I might take it to the 1/8th mile once in a blue moon.

Here is the specs on the 318 whiplash im running.
SMC1326AL.jpg
 
Ok... are you interested in going with an upgraded converter?
Is there a particular time slip to chase?
Is a mechanical cam OK?
 
Ok... are you interested in going with an upgraded converter?
Is there a particular time slip to chase?
Is a mechanical cam OK?
I could upgrade the converter at a later point.
No there is no goal time its just for fun and it will be more towards a street car with some oomph
I would like to use a mechanical flat tappet cam still.
 
Without a converter change....
Comp Cams 20-246-4. (270S)
A SFT “Magnum” series cam.
1800-5800 rpm
270/270 (224/224@050) .468/.468 - 110

With a minor converter upgrade, 2500 stall...
Comp Cams 20-233-4 (XE268S)
2-6K 268/274 (230/236@050) - .488/.501 - 110

In the future, if a better set of heads enter the picture, use the best heads available, & use 1.6 rockers. I’d get the rockers now if you don’t already have a mechanical rocker set.
 
I’m using those Federal-Mougal slugs in the wife’s 360 now @ zero deck. TF heads up top. Go for the EPS finish.
6E01AB66-9C2D-489B-9EFA-E395D49216B5.jpeg
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DE7781B9-CB68-4CAD-AA87-B5249CD39AC5.jpeg
C5CFAFC2-AD02-4602-874D-AFC749F7FB06.jpeg
24AE2EC1-A240-43C3-8843-01854290F59D.jpeg
D7D33E81-3A02-48E2-918C-9BD65221C676.jpeg
 
Since it is internally balanced I would use the 904 and converter behind it. Along with the flex plate.
The 904 takes less power to drive it then the 727. Free horsepower to rear wheels by using the 904.
 
So after spending some money trying to build a 318 and hearing the "you should just build a 360" opinion and I finally fell for it. I managed to pick up a 360 with 727 for a good deal to replace my 318-904 set up. This is a street car that needs some more power than the whiplash 318 im running.

I'm looking for a good build suggestion. It would be nice to have compression in the 9's I would like to keep costs down so I plan to use stock Iron heads with 1.88 1.60 valves with some port match and bowl clean up. Stock crank and rods are good for reuse.
Looking for piston options and cam options.
I have the following components that I plan to reuse with the 360: Headers, Protronix distributor, Performer air gap intake, edelbrock 600 (probably going to need bigger) and I cam running 3.55 gears in the rear.

Thanks!
You will be fine with the 600CFM carb. Too many psych themselves into bigger is better. For the street, you'll almost always be happier with a smaller carb. Better economy, better low end response. If you look at one of the carb sizing calculators, you'll see just what size is optimal for your setup.
 
I agree with Jadaharabi, build the 904 with a good converter to be a stout transmission & it will serve you well, lighter weight, less HP to drive & less reciprocating mass.
 
Get forged pistons and slap a 100hp nitrous kit on it.cheapest horsepower out there. Turn you grocery getter into a tire fryer on command!!
 
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You want cheap?
Install the KB 107s, get the Scr up to 8.8 or better, and the Q to either less than .045 or more than .080, and just slap all your 318 stuff onto the 360 including that 318whiplash cam; 213/226/109+5. This may gross up to an advertised of near to 260/272@ .008, I'm guessing.Add a 2800TC and have some fun.

Ok that's what I would do on the cheap with parts you already have.
 
Using the kit just minimize’s down time. You’ll end up with an extra rotating assembly that is not worth much on a resale side being a stock cast crank and the OE rods which my not or may not be straight. Correcting such parts for use or reselling can be costly. Depending on there condition. IMO, disassemble the engine first to see what is good to go and then proceed from there.

The kit could be cheaper.
 
You will be fine with the 600CFM carb. Too many psych themselves into bigger is better. For the street, you'll almost always be happier with a smaller carb. Better economy, better low end response. If you look at one of the carb sizing calculators, you'll see just what size is optimal for your setup.
agreed, for cheap i once used a 600 holley on a 440 and the throttle response was much better than the borrowed 750 i had on there. i only noticed a performance drop around 5000rpm ish and up where it 'flattened' off the power. on a 360 it'll be fine.
neil.
 
Use a SFT and nitrate it.... It will help get you over the Zinc hurdle during break in.... Since this is a street bruiser and you have a goal I would go minimum mid 9's on Static compression. The Solid cam will put you in adjustable rockers so keep an eye out for a clean set of used from this site....

904 is a good option as is putting a few bucks towards a decent converter. That's what can turn it into a tyre fryer and of course if you want to up the ante gap the rings during assembly for a good 100 shot of gas...

JW
 
Use a SFT and nitrate it.... It will help get you over the Zinc hurdle during break in.... Since this is a street bruiser and you have a goal I would go minimum mid 9's on Static compression. The Solid cam will put you in adjustable rockers so keep an eye out for a clean set of used from this site....

904 is a good option as is putting a few bucks towards a decent converter. That's what can turn it into a tyre fryer and of course if you want to up the ante gap the rings during assembly for a good 100 shot of gas...

JW


I would talk to several people before I did a nitride treatment of the cam. IIRC it makes the surface hard but there are some fracture issues under the hard layer.

If you are going to do some bearing on it you can cryogenically treat the cam and lifters. Or go to a steel cam and use the appropriate lifters.

It’s actually cheaper to do a roller cam when you get there. And it’s infinitely more durable.
 
Dump the 360
Build the 318.
Had to, I'm so damn tired of hearing how "bad" of an engine the 318 is. The 318 had been plenty of engine for at least a gazillion owners of them over the years.
 
Heads may change still, Im still planning this out.
I have looking at this kit for the lower end, I like the fact that it is a internal balanced crank, new rods, and these were the pistons I was looking at.
B20600 Eagle SB Chrysler 360 Street Performance Balanced Rotating Assembly - 10.3:1 Speed Pro Flat Top Pistons
Depending on cc's compression can be in the high 9's even 10's
I see it says balanced but I don’t see the word internal. It’s a cast crank on that kit. You might want to verify internal or external
 
Im still trying to decide and am in no hurry, I agree that for a few more bucks a stroker kit could be had. If I went with a stroker I would like to get some aluminum heads but would need to save some pennies first.
 
Im still trying to decide and am in no hurry, I agree that for a few more bucks a stroker kit could be had. If I went with a stroker I would like to get some aluminum heads but would need to save some pennies first.

you don’t have to buy aluminum heads. You could run your 360 heads. BUT go get an estimate from a machine shop to rebuild your 360 heads.

problem with stock cast iron J/X heads is they have a much larger combustion chamber, ~72cc, than any common aftermarket aluminum head; 63-65cc. So if you are running 9.5:1 compression on CA pump gas, upgrading in the future to an aluminum head puts you at too much compression for the same pistons.

That head situation goes for a 360 or stroker. Same issue both of way.
 
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If you can find one, the MP .528 cam is fantastic. If not, Oregon Cam Grinders has a grind real close.
 
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