How in god's name do you get all the rubbing compound off of a paint job??

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supersoap33

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This is maddening. The **** won't rub completely off. I'm never using this ******* garbage again. Is there a product that will strip it? I've tried iso alcohol and a microfiber. The **** is ******* up my paint, not making it look better!
 
If it's been left on a long time, its a beeotch. I've had to use gas on a rag before to cut it. Just know if you have to get that drastic, have some Dawn detergent mixed up in warm water close by with a rag of its own to wipe the gas right off. Also, you'll need to reapply the wax in that area since the gas will strip it. I would try other more gentler methods first, but I have had to do the gas thing before.
 
This is maddening. The **** won't rub completely off. I'm never using this ******* garbage again. Is there a product that will strip it? I've tried iso alcohol and a microfiber. The **** is ******* up my paint, not making it look better!
what brand did you use?
 
Sounds like you're using too much compound. You need to work it in with the buffer before pulling the trigger so it is spread evenly. Clean up as you go, and mask any areas you don't want compound on.... also when you are done with a spot clean it up while wet.
 
Also keep cleaning or replacing the pad. As it loads up with paint and other junk, it will clog and start to just smear garbage all over instead of working.

Add lots more compound, keep buffing and then change or clean the pads often. Never let anything dry on the paint either.
 
This is maddening. The **** won't rub completely off. I'm never using this ******* garbage again. Is there a product that will strip it? I've tried iso alcohol and a microfiber. The **** is ******* up my paint, not making it look better!
Take a deep breath. I have been painting cars and using all kinds of rubbing, polishing and glazing compounds for years without any problems. unfortunately, you didn't give us much information, and it is kind of hard to render any type of help when the rest of us are in a vacuum. I see you are fairly new to the forum, so let me give you some advice on asking questions. Always give as much information as possible. For instance, what kind of rubbing compound were you using (brand and how coarse was it). Rubbing compounds are like sandpaper, some cut more than others. Plus, some are better than others. How were you applying it? Some compounds pretty much have to be applied with a machine, and some even specify a type of pad. You can spin the pad too fast and cause problems. You can try to do too large of an area at a time. This is a problem, because you wind up with dry swirls. Those swirls have a little bit of the paint in them, and they kind of bond to the paint a little making them hard to get off. Were you buffing new paint or old paint? Was the surface oxidized? Did you wet sand the surface before buffing? If you used a machine, what kind of a pad did you use? All of these questions are legitimate for me to be able to answer your question. Here is one thing you can try. Get a spray detailer. I like the one from Griot's Garage, but the MaGuires one is OK. Spray a small area and rub with a micro fiber towel. I have had really good luck with that. You can also buff it away. Use a medium to light cut compound (use a good quality liquid compound - not a paste like Turtle Wax sells) and a medium cut foam pad. You will need a machine for this. Put some compound on pad and spread it around on the pad. Some people call this "buttering the pad". Then spray the area (about 4 square feet) with a little water. Then buff on a low speed. The swirls / old compound should go away. Wipe the area with a clean micro fiber and move to the next area. I only use 3 M Perfect It compounds and pads. It is fool proof, and it works better than anything else I've used. So let us know exactly wat is going on, and We can help. If you could post a few pictures, that would help too. Good luck.
 
Take a deep breath. I have been painting cars and using all kinds of rubbing, polishing and glazing compounds for years without any problems. unfortunately, you didn't give us much information, and it is kind of hard to render any type of help when the rest of us are in a vacuum. I see you are fairly new to the forum, so let me give you some advice on asking questions. Always give as much information as possible. For instance, what kind of rubbing compound were you using (brand and how coarse was it). Rubbing compounds are like sandpaper, some cut more than others. Plus, some are better than others. How were you applying it? Some compounds pretty much have to be applied with a machine, and some even specify a type of pad. You can spin the pad too fast and cause problems. You can try to do too large of an area at a time. This is a problem, because you wind up with dry swirls. Those swirls have a little bit of the paint in them, and they kind of bond to the paint a little making them hard to get off. Were you buffing new paint or old paint? Was the surface oxidized? Did you wet sand the surface before buffing? If you used a machine, what kind of a pad did you use? All of these questions are legitimate for me to be able to answer your question. Here is one thing you can try. Get a spray detailer. I like the one from Griot's Garage, but the MaGuires one is OK. Spray a small area and rub with a micro fiber towel. I have had really good luck with that. You can also buff it away. Use a medium to light cut compound (use a good quality liquid compound - not a paste like Turtle Wax sells) and a medium cut foam pad. You will need a machine for this. Put some compound on pad and spread it around on the pad. Some people call this "buttering the pad". Then spray the area (about 4 square feet) with a little water. Then buff on a low speed. The swirls / old compound should go away. Wipe the area with a clean micro fiber and move to the next area. I only use 3 M Perfect It compounds and pads. It is fool proof, and it works better than anything else I've used. So let us know exactly wat is going on, and We can help. If you could post a few pictures, that would help too. Good luck.

Ok. I'm using maguire's rubbing compound and then following that up with their polishing compound. I was taking out pretty big chunks. Maybe a couple square feet at a time. I'm not by any outlets, so I'm just using my muscles and microfiber towels. I've been rubbing it really hard, but it still swirls and it's damn near impossible to get it all off. So I tried hitting it with a water/denatured alcohol solution today and that really didn't work. It sort of clouded the surface of the paint and then when I rubbed it with my hand, the cloudiness cleared up. I'm still confused. I don't have a lot of experience with these compounds, but I was just getting mad because why would they make a product that you can't remove that easy?

Anyways, the car is getting a patina paint job because it was a ******* mess when I got it, but it had patina potential, so I started with a 600 grit paper and brought that up to a 3000 and it looked good. After that, I was going to apply Flood with penetrol, which I think is just linseed oil and mineral spirits mixed together. But then I got the wild idea to take some of the circles from the sand paper out with some rubbing compound, then followed with a polishing compound. I've been doing all of this by hand, so this is week number three and I'm about ******* fed up with this thing.

20210408_142424.jpg
 
Whenever buffing or rubbing with compounds I wash it off with soap and water immediately to prevent that and Never buff in the sun.
 
I agree with last comment, Do not try buffing in direct sunlight. I'm a little unsure of how to achieve the effect you're looking for, but I think you need to beg, borrow, or steal a machine buffer.. I use a variable speed Hazard Fright dual-action buffer and their foam pads. For me, getting the paint as clean as possible first, BEFORE, you start buffing is important. When the pad gets "loaded", I either change pads, or clean the pad by running it under warm/hot water in the sink, squeeze out excess moisture, then let it air dry.
 
I agree but
While buffing if my wool pad starts to load up I use this tool remove compound and fluff up the pad.
Buff & Shine Buffing Pad Cleaning Spur - 1600 | eBay

Is there a good battery-powered buffer? I don't have an outlet near the car and it's not running. I get your point, though. I have a buffer and it would've been a lot better to use it than to do this by hand, and yes... I did do this in direct sunlight, thus drying out the polish/rubbing compound a lot faster.
 
Is there a good battery-powered buffer? I don't have an outlet near the car and it's not running. I get your point, though. I have a buffer and it would've been a lot better to use it than to do this by hand, and yes... I did do this in direct sunlight, thus drying out the polish/rubbing compound a lot faster.

There are cordless buffers. If you already have cordless tools (Drills, saws, etc) then it's best to stick to a brand you have. If you don't already have a 'brand' of cordless tools, go with what your budget allows. Expect to spend $100+ though, closer to $250 for something that won't crap out halfway through. Spare batteries are also handy.
 
I'm wondering if clay bar would help get some of the dirt and compound out of existing paint. After compounding a very oxidized car, I had to clay bar it before moving on to polishing.
 
I don't know but i am glad you are actually to the buffing stage. I am at the 'second coat of primer" stage.
 
Have you tried a 'Wax & Grease Remover'? Any automotive paint store should have it. It's for removing wax & grease before you paint. It is safe for the existing paint, but the solvents will remove old wax, oil from fingerprints, etc.
 
I wash and dry car, sand out any scratches with 1500 Grit paper, Buff with Compound with a wool pad. Wash car again, blow car dry with my leaf blower lol , Polish car with a foam pad ,wipe off any polish with soft cloth, then wax car unless paint is fresh .
 
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