Brake drum removal HELP

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Don’t cut those pins, the shoes will **** sideways and it will all bind up. It may get them loose from the drum, but the adjuster is frozen so it won’t come off.

Cutting the pins is last resort, and you aren’t there yet.
Put the wheel back on and put it on the ground with the bearing removed. That will help break,the shoes loose.

Your stuck drum is Still swedged on so it’s all one piece.

Heat the adjuster through the adjuster holes and that will free it up. Aim the heat to the where the threads are inside the adjuster, not the exposed threads. You will need a cutting torch for this.
 

Swedged. Get a 5/8 metal cutting hole saw and go down around the studs. Cut clean through the DRUM ONLY. Don't cut through the hub, JUST the drum. Once you do all five, the drum will separate from the hub.....course you need to get the drum and hub off first. lol
 
Well crap. Pins cut. Probably cocked sideways.
Torch is empty. Maybe I can fit the plasma cutter up in the wedged out part of the bottom.
Probably not.
 
That one is the half inch size as noted by the thread @Daves69 posted above.

Nails cut, bottom of drum will pull out.
top of drum will not give.

Because the springs are holding it on. You should listen instead of acting. We're trying to help.
 
Well crap. Pins cut. Probably cocked sideways.
Torch is empty. Maybe I can fit the plasma cutter up in the wedged out part of the bottom.
Probably not.

You need to work on getting that self adjuster freed up. As much effort as you given everything that hasn't worked, if you'd concentrated on that, you'd have the drum off by now.
 
Ok, so now, release the torsion bar bolt on the front side of the torsion bar?
then the four large bolts on the back of the plate?
then the hub will fall off. Then I can take it to a shop with a drill press for swedge removal.
Then I can actually get this thing to roll.
Is this the correct order?
 
I was considering this. Will this really work?


If the shoes are stuck to the drum, then you can take the drum with the shoes and all the springs off once you get the bearing nut off which you already have...
 
And I do appreciate all the help. Thank you very much. Wish you could sit in my garage with me and have a beer. Or a tea. Or whatever your pleasure is.
I typically only have one day a week to work on anything car related and this dang rust free notchback roller is killing my garage space.
 
I jumped the gun. Had em cut before I was told not to. My bad.

No biggie. It's just pins. You can buy some more. "I" would concentrate on getting that adjuster freed up. Soak it down with Sea Foam Deep Creep. It actually works better than PBlaster....and I never thought I'd say that. Soak it down HARD for a day. It'll give it up. But remember, to turn it backwards, you must hole the self adjuster lever OFF of the toothed wheel, or it will lock it from turning backwards.
 
And I do appreciate all the help. Thank you very much. Wish you could sit in my garage with me and have a beer. Or a tea. Or whatever your pleasure is.
I typically only have one day a week to work on anything car related and this dang rust free notchback roller is killing my garage space.

Me too! We'd have that beeotch off in no time and have some fun fixin your brakes up.
 
Try grinding the nail heads off the back of the backing plate that hold the shoes to the backing plate and take the brake shoes with it....

The hardware and spring kits come with replacements, so you're not ruining anything that you can't replace...
Don't know why one would disagree with this I was just about to suggest this. Sometimes you have to unbolt the wheel cylinder as well to give it a bit more "wiggle room
 
Don't know why one would disagree with this I was just about to suggest this. Sometimes you have to unbolt the wheel cylinder as well to give it a bit more "wiggle room


I agree, I can't understand why someone would disagree...

But you are the second one to agree, so I can't be that far off...
 
I removed a hub with my frozen drums. Took the bearing out and beat the drum side to side with a hammer after I loosened the adjuster as far as I could . finally got it off and tried to press the hub out the drum. Ended up bending the F'n drum as it was still swedged on. ended up buying a drum and a hub from here and installing it with new knurled studs that never fit perfectly because the person I bought the hub from must have beat the old studs out though the front taking the factory knurles with it so yeah....that corner is a little shaky removing the lug nuts as I'm scared one will start spinning in the knurls. They pulled in pretty tight but still not spec. Oh, I forgot, I went to disks shortly after this so no worries on the lugs now!
 
I agree, I can't understand why someone would disagree...

But you are the second one to agree, so I can't be that far off...

You ain't. Sometimes that's what it takes. I've had to do it before.....get the torch out too. I try to leave "tearin stuff up" as a last resort.....though sometimes that's all that works.
 
I removed a hub with my frozen drums. Took the bearing out and beat the drum side to side with a hammer after I loosened the adjuster as far as I could . finally got it off and tried to press the hub out the drum. Ended up bending the F'n drum as it was still swedged on. ended up buying a drum and a hub from here and installing it with new knurled studs that never fit perfectly because the person I bought the hub from must have beat the old studs out though the front taking the factory knurles with it so yeah....that corner is a little shaky removing the lug nuts as I'm scared one will start spinning in the knurls. They pulled in pretty tight but still not spec. Oh, I forgot, I went to disks shortly after this so no worries on the lugs now!

Not a darn thing wrong with spot welding the studs to the back of the hub. Done it a few times meeeeself.
 
You ain't. Sometimes that's what it takes. I've had to do it before.....get the torch out too. I try to leave "tearin stuff up" as a last resort.....though sometimes that's all that works.


I've cut the drums in half and pried them apart before, then realized that I could have just ground the nail heads off instead...
 
You cannot unbolt the backing plate from the car without the drum off, there are 4 nuts and bolts holding it on and you need to access both sides.

And why the big desire to cut the Swedges? That’s not going to gain you anything. The drum is stuck to the shoes, the bearings look greasy and not rusted so they will come off when the drum is free.
 
Cutting the pins Gained you nothing, it still won’t come off.

You still have 3 stumbling blocks as noted in the photo. Top anchor, and both wheels cylinder struts.

Now how do you overcome them?

51B68C59-C6FF-41CB-8BAE-40EE9B310F7F.jpeg
 
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