Line pressure after shift kit

The higher you crank the line pressure the later your automatic upshifts will be. More throttle pressure will delay the upshift even further.
To get the governor back in sync for daily driving, the governor pressure has to be increased.
If you want neck-snapping shifts, your engine has to have some decent bottom-end torque,or
you need a higher stall to slingshot the rpm up to where the torque is.
To have lots of bottom end torque, the cylinder pressure has to be, oh IDK say 155 psi or more with iron heads,
At 135, forget it.
I'll guess 145/150 is the minimum I would tolerate before I'm taking the engine apart.
And at 160/165 with tight-Q it will be very snappy.
With alloys, the pressure needs to be at least 15%more, which, to get your money's worth, the psi needs to be greater than what you can squeeze out of iron. Some guys here on FABO are running close to or a tic over 200psi with alloys, still on pump gas. I myself have run 185psi still on 87E10, with no problems
You can get away with less pressure, if you have skinny tires that slip right away, or with hi-performance gears.
If you are not interested in tirespin, but are interested in snappy shifts, then you need to be particularly precise in your stall selection, or downsize the carb, or improve your traction.I think I got that right.
The bigger the engine, (within reason, like stock strokes) the easier it is to get this all synchronized.
It's really hard with a low-compression 318, with even a modest cam, cuz the pressure is so low to start with. Installing a bigger cam into a 318with no increase in Scr/Dcr, just makes it IMO, intolerably soft on the bottom.
And finally the higher your elevation the softer the hit will be.

The point is this;
IDK a doggone thing about your engine, so before you spend the entire summer playing with the trans, you sorta need to make sure your engine has the goods, and your TC wants to co-operate. To that end I highly recommend a compression test, and a flash-stall test..

For myself, on the street, with a stock 318LA, I like the hit of a 2800 with 3.23s or less; it's like soft,soft, soft, then, at 2800; WHAM! 318s have pretty good torque at 2800, and the hiway gears keep the engine in the high-torque range for a long time. It will never be quick, set up like that, but the hit is hilarious, and you will have a ton of fun. Ok, I had a ton of fun,lol.
A stock 340 has a very similar bottom end, if a lil more torquey, but needs gears to spool it up in a hurry.
I have not run my 360 with an auto, but it has a chitload of bottom-end,lol.
If you have a stroker, I know chit about strokers,lol, except that for me, I see no point in having one ,because I don't have the money to spend trying to get it to hook, on the street. I gave up at 325/50-15 BFG DRs, trying to get my 360 to hook, so concentrated on turning it into a drifter, now with 295/50-15s, sliding safely around as many corners a day as opportunities present themselves..... which it turns out, is a lotta fun.