What would cause my barely used green bearing to do this?

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I'm running green bearings, mostly street. No issues yet. For me, my adjustors were frozen and junk. Made sense to go with green bearings. Also, I have another set of axles coming with green bearings because I'm going to be running a spool. And yes, I'll drive that on the street also. If I run into a problem, I'll post it. So far, so good!
 
I’ve never had an issue with the whatever color bearings ! Never had issues with them in my Mopar or my Ford’s !
 
512Stroker said:
OP update?
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They come pre-greased, if my memory serves me right. Ball bearings require a, to most people, surprisingly small amount of grease Too much and the skid instead of roll, with extra heat as the result.
 
That happens when Green wheel bearings preload the differential thrust button. The custom axles are too long for the housing, or the OP is using a poorly designed rear disc brake kit. In both cases, tapered roller wheel bearings will not work either. The easiest solution is to install a new pair of snap ring Green wheel bearings and remove the thrust button.

BTW, Green bearings are made in Ohio.
 
He also said that he had new ends put on. So the flange to flange width may not be as wide as it was factory. Lots of variables here. Kim
 
MiradaMegaCab said:
Unfortunately, the original Mopar Green wheel bearing design has 2 problems.

First generation (RP-400) Green bearings, still sold by Mopar Performance and others, are problematic because the crimped-on flange will not allow the bearing to wiggle around inside a housing that is not perfectly straight (none are).

In addition, the design causes the axle to be inserted DEEPER into the housing than necessary. This results in pre-loading against the differential thrust block and early bearing failure.

Second generation (MO-400) snap-ring style Green bearings are forgiving because they can move around inside the housing and they do not preload the differential thrust block in a stock application.

Most guys who have problems with Green bearings are running the RP-400 first generation version or incorrectly made aftermarket axles or housings or poorly designed rear disc brake kits, all of which cause pre-loading and premature bearing failure.

I have several customers running MO-400 snap-ring Green bearings in daily drivers. The design is no different than what came stock in millions of other vehicles, including ’60s era Mopar 7.25″ and Ford 9″ rears. (For example, see here) I do not stock, nor do I recommend the first generation RP-400 Green bearing with the crimped-on 5 hole retainer. I only carry the “loose fit, snap ring style” second generation MO-400 design.


Again, copy and pasted from Dr Diff website. The OP is using inferior 1st Gen Green Bearings.
It’s a beneficial read and upgrade to use the 2nd Gen Snap Ring RP-400 style bearing. Period
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The bearings are not 1st Gen, they are the newer ones. You can see the snap ring there if you look, against the backing plate. If my housing is a little out of spec, this style of bearing should actually help since it can move around a little.
 
512Stroker said:
They look kinda dry, what grease were you using?
I have had 3 different 8 3/4 rear ends with green bearings, many hole shots thousands of street miles - no issues.
When you installed them did they slip right in by hand or did you have to force them in?
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I honestly don't remember if they slipped right in.
 
Thanks for all the thoughts on this. I am going to measure the housing width, axle lengths, etc. before any more speculation. If everything appears to be correct, then I'll have to just assume there was a manufacturing or bearing install issue.
 
What is wrong with tapered bearings?


-mic drop!
 
it's really not at all helpful to turn a thread like this into a tapered vs green bearing debate. there's nothing about this situation that would point a finger at the cause being the fact that the bearings were green bearings. hell, if i had used tapered bearings, it may have not even seated into the housing properly for all i know. it's just distraction and noise at this point.
 
killnine said:
it's really not at all helpful to turn a thread like this into a tapered vs green bearing debate. there's nothing about this situation that would point a finger at the cause being the fact that the bearings were green bearings. hell, if i had used tapered bearings, it may have not even seated into the housing properly for all i know. it's just distraction and noise at this point.
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it’s called a chat forum or “discussion” forum. So, what are the issues with tapered bearings?
I would like to know because I went to Green bearings on a rearend and have went through two sets in ~20,000 miles. I’ve had tapered bearings go for 100k. Green bearings might be just fine if all you ever did was go in a straight line. They just don’t last in real world driving , i.e. not in controlled straight line drag racing.
I was sold on the ball bearings because they are “easier” to service but really, there’s no problem servicing tapered bearings. Also, I was considering a brake kit that only works with ball bearings. I asked Cass Eslick about it and told him I corner hard in the car and he said it would be fine. I’m thinking he didn’t consider that people corner their car harder than turning off the 1/4 mile track at the big end. I would have chosen a disc brake kit that works with a different housing end and built the rear with them, like big Ford ends with tapered bearings.

Green Bearing fans just can’t grasp that they do not live in road race, autocross, or even canyon carving road trips. It’s a case cognitive dissonance. “Dr Diff says they’re good, and he’s a Doctor!” , “This guy uses them so I don’t want to miss out”.
I’m not hating on the Green bearing but I am throwing shade at people who think they are just fine in every application. If you’ve got a bracket car and can’t figure out a dial indicator then they are for you OR if you putt your muscle car around town for about 2,000 miles a year then that’s fine too.
 
go-fish said:
it’s called a chat forum or “discussion” forum. So, what are the issues with tapered bearings?
I would like to know because I went to Green bearings on a rearend and have went through two sets in ~20,000 miles. I’ve had tapered bearings go for 100k. Green bearings might be just fine if all you ever did was go in a straight line. They just don’t last in real world driving , i.e. not in controlled straight line drag racing.
I was sold on the ball bearings because they are “easier” to service but really, there’s no problem servicing tapered bearings. Also, I was considering a brake kit that only works with ball bearings. I asked Cass Eslick about it and told him I corner hard in the car and he said it would be fine. I’m thinking he didn’t consider that people corner their car harder than turning off the 1/4 mile track at the big end. I would have chosen a disc brake kit that works with a different housing end and built the rear with them, like big Ford ends with tapered bearings.

Green Bearing fans just can’t grasp that they do not live in road race, autocross, or even canyon carving road trips. It’s a case cognitive dissonance. “Dr Diff says they’re good, and he’s a Doctor!” , “This guy uses them so I don’t want to miss out”.
I’m not hating on the Green bearing but I am throwing shade at people who think they are just fine in every application. If you’ve got a bracket car and can’t figure out a dial indicator then they are for you OR if you putt your muscle car around town for about 2,000 miles a year then that’s fine too.
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Yeah, so open a new thread, and don't divert this thread, which was about what would cause this to happen to 'these' bearings.
 
go-fish said:
it’s called a chat forum or “discussion” forum. So, what are the issues with tapered bearings?
I would like to know because I went to Green bearings on a rearend and have went through two sets in ~20,000 miles. I’ve had tapered bearings go for 100k. Green bearings might be just fine if all you ever did was go in a straight line. They just don’t last in real world driving , i.e. not in controlled straight line drag racing.
I was sold on the ball bearings because they are “easier” to service but really, there’s no problem servicing tapered bearings. Also, I was considering a brake kit that only works with ball bearings. I asked Cass Eslick about it and told him I corner hard in the car and he said it would be fine. I’m thinking he didn’t consider that people corner their car harder than turning off the 1/4 mile track at the big end. I would have chosen a disc brake kit that works with a different housing end and built the rear with them, like big Ford ends with tapered bearings.

Green Bearing fans just can’t grasp that they do not live in road race, autocross, or even canyon carving road trips. It’s a case cognitive dissonance. “Dr Diff says they’re good, and he’s a Doctor!” , “This guy uses them so I don’t want to miss out”.
I’m not hating on the Green bearing but I am throwing shade at people who think they are just fine in every application. If you’ve got a bracket car and can’t figure out a dial indicator then they are for you OR if you putt your muscle car around town for about 2,000 miles a year then that’s fine too.
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So none of us with green bearings go around a corner? Your theory doesn’t hold water. I use nothing but green bearings and have for years and years.

I guess you are a real driver or some ****. BTW, the factory used what was cheap and offered an adjustment to make up for their mile wide tolerance. A speedy dude like you should understand this right? But by GOD, ebooger said it’s tapered bearings or death and we all know he’s never wrong.
 
yellow rose said:
So none of us with green bearings go around a corner? Your theory doesn’t hold water. I use nothing but green bearings and have for years and years.
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Way to get super defensive. You sound like a little girl with the condescending remarks.
I never said people with green bearings “go around a corner”. In fact you’re proving my point because I said I used Green bearings and go around a corner. In my experience, and many others, they don’t like high loads.
Your going around a corner and my going around a corner are two completely different things, Mr Bigshot Drag Racer. I never claimed to be a big shot driver. I tell you how I use my cars and I don’t have to be a whiz bang driver for Green bearings to fail. They do that pretty easily if you do anything more than putt your muscle car around town for 2000 miles a year or drag race. Maybe like the OP and take the car out of storage every once in awhile but they will still give up the ghost doing that.
Ebooger, schmeebooger. I never referenced him and actually said I found out Green bearings suck through my own trials, you thick headed ninnymuggins.
You've really shown your *** by ASSuming my “theory”. Never said you don’t go around corners, I suggested you don’t go around corners with high g forces. Also, that’s not called a theory, jackass.
 
I ain't no mechanic by any stretch, BUT I have NEVER heard any controversy regarding oem style bearings, never.
Green??? ALL the time.
 
4spdragtop said:
I ain't no mechanic by any stretch, BUT I have NEVER heard any controversy regarding oem style bearings, never.
Green??? ALL the time.
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I wasn’t even trying to start something because the only thing I asked initially was “What is wrong with tapered bearings?”. Then all these hotshot drag racers started defending green bearings to back up their intelligence by purchasing these revolutionary Green bearings. It’s classic. Defend what you bought because you think you make good decisions even if you see evidence otherwise. And just because you haven’t seen failures because you don’t use your equipment like others do means that they are the dumb ones.
 
Have you called Dutchman ? I have Dutchmans with green bearings in my Swinger but havent put many miles on if yet .
My Barracuda has Mosers with green bearings and I have around 20k miles on them . No issue so far .
 
Green bearings just don't work well with black and white thinking. You're just going to get some kind of...

lighter or darker green. Not like pink or something where it's a whole new color.

I think that's going to be my take-away from this.

So if we're going to battle out, can we please just start posting hyperlinks to other threads where we have all (Me included) said the same stuff before?

I'll start:
Axle bearings
jos51700 said:
I'm just thanking God: No Green Bearing discussion.
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go-fish said:
I wasn’t even trying to start something because the only thing I asked initially was “What is wrong with tapered bearings?”. Then all these hotshot drag racers started defending green bearings to back up their intelligence by purchasing these revolutionary Green bearings. It’s classic. Defend what you bought because you think you make good decisions even if you see evidence otherwise. And just because you haven’t seen failures because you don’t use your equipment like others do means that they are the dumb ones.
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7-1/4, 9-1/4, Ford 9in, GM 12 bolt, every FWD car ever made. All use ball or straight roller bearings, no taper bearings to be found.

There's no downside to running green bearings, there are millions upon millions more cars out there running "green" type bearings vs a tapered bearing. Plenty of them high powered.
 
TurboGLH said:
7-1/4, 9-1/4, Ford 9in, GM 12 bolt, every FWD car ever made. All use ball or straight roller bearings, no taper bearings to be found.

There's no downside to running green bearings, there are millions upon millions more cars out there running "green" type bearings vs a tapered bearing. Plenty of them high powered.
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Yeah, with different axle designs.....

Goddamn it....sucked in again...
 
jos51700 said:
Yeah, with different axle designs.....

Goddamn it....sucked in again...
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What differences that have an effect on bearing life?

I feel you, can't help yourself sometimes.
 
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