I think you lost the OP, or maybe we all did. LOL.
@dartfreak75
Whatever the engine has in it, you can tune to it.
The whole discussion about an expected range of initial and typical best high rpm timing under full load is to keep what you are testing in the ballpark.
Lets go over what is known and not known about the advance.
These are showing quite a bit different amounts of advance. 20 and 26. I wouldn't call one or the other correct at this point.
OK. This is possible when using two primary springs, but that still doesn't explain the top end.
The way to settle what the advance looks like is to get it to idle slow and then lock down the distributor and increase rpm.
If you can get 600 or 650 rpm great.
maybe do the low speed ones twice because one the engine is hot there is a better chance of idling it slow.
Try to measure with increasing rpm rather than letting off the throttle as there is some uh er slop.
You can
measure the rpm for every increase in a degree (or two)
or
measure the timing for every 100 or 150 or 200 rpm. In the mid and upper rpms you can space that out to every 250 or 500 rpm.
Whichever is more convenient.
For 3500 to 4500 rpm I usually just do something that is almost like winging it. I open the throttle quick take a quick measurement and let it come back down.
If it doesnt feel safe to you dont do it. We all of differnt risk tolerances for different things.
When you have that all written down, we can plot it out.
Then you'll know what the advance is doing.
Also, if you are later going to use this lwith vacuum advance you can also see where problems may occur and head them off.
This was two questions.
View attachment 1715735637
Even if timing is not advancing until 1000 rpm, there's a big difference if its dropping 50 rpm vs. 200 rpm when placed in gear. One is pretty good for a cammed engine the other shows a lack of power.
