Cylinder Head Choice

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With a 2.76 axle, 318 cubes & the small cam, you might actually go slower with alum heads. Not a recipe for performance. Because you are putting performance heads on a non-performance engine.
From what you have said, only mod is this very mild cam.
In my opinion, with what you have said, better performance will likely be realised by having a multiangle valve job, with mild clean up in the valve bowl area of the factory heads.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Stick with 318WILLRUN.
To answer you’d question above about where to get ported heads....
Shocker 185 Mopar CNC (Sold in Pairs) - PROMAXX Performance Products
I have a set of these and there good. Not to much head for a 318.
Click to expand...

These are perfect and right in my budget, especially considering the aforementioned Black Friday sale.

I’m slightly confused about the gear ratios and the torque converter. Would I need to buy a new rear end before getting the converter? Is that the only way to change gear ratio to 4.11?

This converter seems to fit all of the specifications you suggested as well - would this be a good one? thank you for all the help!

TCI 751400: 10" Streetfighter Torque Converter 1972-80 AMC Torque Command 727 | JEGS
 
Krooser said:
Many aftermarket heads provide little performance improvements...just look cooler to some.

If you want HP buy Trick Flow, Edelbrock Victor or a ported version of an Edelbrock.

I get a lot of flack about my opinion of imported heads. I say stay away especially with " ready to run" heads...they all must be disassembled and checked. The cheap ones have cheap parts.

May the beatings begin.
Click to expand...
No beatings here. I agree
 
Spacegrass said:
I’m slightly confused about the gear ratios and the torque converter. Would I need to buy a new rear end before getting the converter? Is that the only way to change gear ratio to 4.11?
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No, but you would get a new converter to be used in conjunction with a new gear ratio and the camshaft to be used.
This converter seems to fit all of the specifications you suggested as well - would this be a good one? thank you for all the help!

TCI 751400: 10" Streetfighter Torque Converter 1972-80 AMC Torque Command 727 | JEGS
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No, step up and pay the piper and get a great converter rather than a generic band aid.

Also, IMO, save money and don’t get the aluminum heads. Your not so doing much with the engine that the iron head prepped can’t handle. If you’d going to step up to the plate and build a serious engine for a heavy street hitter / drag car as you stated earlier, your not getting there from here with the 318 as it sits now.

Your also pretty unclear of your path or plan.

Let’s start with.... how fast is it you want to go in the 1/4 mile?
What kind of budget do you have?
 
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Are there any issues with a 2.02 intake valve head on a 318 bore? I know there will be reduced flow due to shrouding but does it fit without mods?
 
gzig5 said:
I think the 171 version is all you need for a stock compression 318 with a mild cam for a well balanced combo. 185's have more potential but that cam won't use it and the larger ports hinder port velocity. Spend the savings on converter or rear end where you'll get a bigger bang.
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I posted it as an example, that I have had good results with. I was just saying above to him, I think it is more head than he needs at the moment since it is a low compression 318. If he had more compression and a bigger cam, they would work well. I don’t think the head ports cc amount is an issue.
 
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gzig5 said:
Are there any issues with a 2.02 intake valve head on a 318 bore? I know there will be reduced flow due to shrouding but does it fit without mods?
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I’ve ever head a problem making power or with clearance. Shrouding is a over rated worry. While it should be avoided or corrected, there are worse things in the world to worry about. The flow reduction is minimal and of zero concern.
 
I don't know if you guys are dictating to your phone or typing and making mistakes but it makes it difficult to understand what you're talkin about. I can kind of figure it out but for a newbie I'm not so sure.
 
tinman2 said:
I don't know if you guys are dictating to your phone or typing and making mistakes but it makes it difficult to understand what you're talkin about. I can kind of figure it out but for a newbie I'm not so sure.
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I’m still on my first cup of coffee.... I made some corrections. The eye and finger coordination is off.
Thanks for the heads up.
 
Any money you invest in iron heads will be a waste. If you eventually stay with it, the aluminum heads will more than pay for themselves. They might not be optimum at the beginning but in the end they are just a better head.
 
rumblefish360 said:
No, but you would get a new converter to be used in conjunction with a new gear ratio and the camshaft to be used.


No, step up and pay the piper and get a great converter rather than a generic band aid.

Also, IMO, save money and don’t get the aluminum heads. Your not so doing much with the engine that the iron head prepped can’t handle. If you’d going to step up to the plate and build a serious engine for a heavy street hitter / drag car as you stated earlier, your not getting there from here with the 318 as it sits now.

Your also pretty unclear of your path or plan.

Let’s start with.... how fast is it you want to go in the 1/4 mile?
What kind of budget do you have?
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I appreciate the help here! I don’t know what a good converter is, but my budget is around $1000 at the top end for a converter. I don’t mind putting $5-8k into the car over a period of a year or two if it means doing it right.

I haven’t even put the cam into the car, or even taken it out of the box. I don’t mind returning it and getting something better - I would just need a suggestion as to what to get.

The goal is a 10.5 quarter mile.
 
You wanna do a 10.5 in the 1/4 mile?

It’s a tall order for a 318. It can be done. You’ll probably hate driving it on the street. I’m going to say something I don’t say much, but here it is....

You “might” wanna start with a bigger engine.
(And a camshaft nearly twice the size. Add 50*’s of duration to start with.)
 
rumblefish360 said:
You wanna do a 10.5 in the 1/4 mile?

It’s a tall order for a 318. It can be done. You’ll probably hate driving it on the street. I’m going to say something I don’t say much, but here it is....

You “might” wanna start with a bigger engine.
(And a camshaft twice the size. As in multiply your duration @050, then multiply by 2.
Click to expand...

The goal/challenge is definitely to do it with the 318! I have seen it done, and I know by the end the car will be fairly useless on the street.

Would there be a specific cam you would suggest I start with?
 
A specific cam.... NO. This is a too wide and varied question and answer. I’ll suggest something in the area. And this would only work or you got the car light enough and set up right to do so.

Also, camshaft selection is a highly opinionated choice where everyone has a spin on why there choice is better/best and the others suck assholes through a straw.

This old school grind will work even though the group will trash it and others praise it’s worth.

MoPar Performance cam P41520657
Mechanical camshaft
312 advertised duration
(It should be 265 .050)
.590 lift .028/.032 lash
112 overlap, 106/104

Let the bashing and chest pounding begin!
 
rumblefish360 said:
A specific cam.... NO. This is a too wide and varied question and answer. I’ll suggest something in the area. And this would only work or you got the car light enough and set up right to do so.

Also, camshaft selection is a highly opinionated choice where everyone has a spin on why there choice is better/best and the others suck assholes through a straw.

This old school grind will work even though the group will trash it and others praise it’s worth.

MoPar Performance cam P41520657
Mechanical camshaft
312 advertised duration
(It should be 265 .050)
.590 lift .028/.032 lash
112 overlap, 106/104

Let the bashing and chest pounding begin!
Click to expand...


Just ordered the P41520657 kit from Summit and started the return on the other one. Should I still go with the Promax 185 heads?
 
Hey whoa! Is your game plan to purchase part I list?
I listed the ProMaxx heads as an example of the ability to purchase ported heads that I liked and were ready to run OOTB.
You might want to weigh the cost vs price of TF heads as well.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Hey whoa! Is your game plan to purchase part I list?
I listed the ProMaxx heads as an example of the ability to purchase ported heads that I liked and were ready to run OOTB.
You might want to weigh the cost vs price of TF heads as well.
Click to expand...


I definitely didn’t want to start with the wrong cam, since that seems like it would have a poor effect on everything else! The game plan is definitely to start with a parts list of compatible items, install in chunks and work from there. I already got a Cold Case radiator, and I figured when I’m installing that would be a good time to install the cam.

The TF heads seem like a comparable price to the PM ones, and they’ll ship from Summit around the same time.

What would be a good quality brand of converter to invest in? I still only vaguely know where to start there, and now that I know it’s important I feel like I should ask!
 
Spacegrass said:
I appreciate the help here! I don’t know what a good converter is, but my budget is around $1000 at the top end for a converter. I don’t mind putting $5-8k into the car over a period of a year or two if it means doing it right.

I haven’t even put the cam into the car, or even taken it out of the box. I don’t mind returning it and getting something better - I would just need a suggestion as to what to get.

The goal is a 10.5 quarter mile.
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Woahaw, speedster! 10.5 in the 1/4 mile changes a lot of advice folks will be giving you, including me !!!
 
Wait.... have you ever done this before because your questions are super rookie in nature.

The TF’s are more pricey but better but also have more expensive rocker gear to upgrade to. Several hundred dollars worth in rockers alone.

If your looking for a parts list to run 10.5’s in the 1/4, you should ask first instead of just asking over and over again on bits and pieces.

FWIW, I’m not interested in giving a crash course and parts list to do this only to have you or someone else complain it didn’t work. It’s a **** long list nevermind the instructions of what to do with it and how it should be done.

Click the link below (sig) or get the book itself.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Wait.... have you ever done this before because your questions are super rookie in nature.

The TF’s are more pricey but better but also have more expensive rocker gear to upgrade to. Several hundred dollars worth in rockers alone.

If your looking for a parts list to run 10.5’s in the 1/4, you should ask first instead of just asking over and over again on bits and pieces.

FWIW, I’m not interested in giving a crash course and parts list to do this only to have you or someone else complain it didn’t work. It’s a **** long list nevermind the instructions of what to do with it and how it should be done.

Click the link below (sig) or get the book itself.
Click to expand...


I am a total newbie when it comes to working on cars, probably to the point where I didn’t know what to ask - but a parts list is absolutely what I am looking for. My understanding is that there’s a lot of compatibility issues and to ask questions, and after watching a lot of YouTube channels and reading a lot there’s a small amount I know — but I know it’s hardly enough. I appreciate all this advice a ton.

For what it’s worth, I’m not doing this to specifically get 10.5 as much as that’s a ballpark figure I would like to achieve. This is more about learning, enjoying and loving the car and experience. If the car runs faster than it did when I started working on it, I’m happy. If I make that time at the track, I’m ecstatic.
 
Find a engine builder near you that is familiar with small block Mopars and tell him your story. You need a completely rebuilt motor to achieve your goal and it isn't going to be successful by picking suggestions off an internet forum. I don't know how much HP it takes to get your car to 10.5 but doing it with a 318 is going to take a PLAN from someone who knows what they are doing. I would bet you'd be in for $6-8k in the motor alone.
 
Spacegrass said:
I am a total newbie when it comes to working on cars, probably to the point where I didn’t know what to ask - but a parts list is absolutely what I am looking for. My understanding is that there’s a lot of compatibility issues and to ask questions, and after watching a lot of YouTube channels and reading a lot there’s a small amount I know — but I know it’s hardly enough. I appreciate all this advice a ton.

For what it’s worth, I’m not doing this to specifically get 10.5 as much as that’s a ballpark figure I would like to achieve. This is more about learning, enjoying and loving the car and experience. If the car runs faster than it did when I started working on it, I’m happy. If I make that time at the track, I’m ecstatic.
Click to expand...
Just curious, why or how did you come to the 10.5 ET as a goal ? Did you ride in a friends car or own something that ran 10.5's, like a crotch rocket ?? The reason why I'm asking is 10.5's might sound like a cool number, but you'll need your 318 to not just beat a New Challenger R/T, or a Challenger Scat Pack, but you'll need to beat a stock Hellcat with a biting tire !!! That's some serious mustard, because you have a lot of ketching-up to do !!
 
318willrun said:
Just curious, why or how did you come to the 10.5 ET as a goal ? Did you ride in a friends car or own something that ran 10.5's, like a crotch rocket ?? The reason why I'm asking is 10.5's might sound like a cool number, but you'll need your 318 to not just beat a New Challenger R/T, or a Challenger Scat Pack, but you'll need to beat a stock Hellcat with a biting tire !!! That's some serious mustard, because you have a lot of ketching-up to do !!
Click to expand...

That’s just it, drove a stock Hellcat and FELL IN LOVE with how it drove! The response, the power, everything! I finally am in a place where I have the time and monetary resources to learn (albeit lacking space and knowledge) and would love to pack somewhere in the ballpark of that power range. I know it’s a challenge, but I am up for it!
 
Might be cheaper to just get a used Hellcat :poke: :lol:

Good luck. do a build thread to show your progress
 
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