Slant header ID?

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halfafish

halfafish

Damn those rabbits, and their holes!
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When I took my newly assembled engine to my buddy's house for an initial run-in, we used his long-tube headers on the stand. They fit fine. Note that his headers sweep to the back faster, have different bends, and the collectors point in different directions.

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When I started doing the final assembly on the block to go back in the truck I went to hook up my long-tube headers and they don't fit. This is in a truck so it has a rear sump. The front tubes hit on the driver engine mount and the oil pan, and not by just a little. Both sets of tubes sweep more downward, and the collectors are basically parallel. Also, the collectors are jammed together so plumbing the exhaust pipes would be a challenge.

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The buddy with the run stand and the guy I got my headers from are both veterans of the slant world, and both said their headers were from Clifford. I can't find any markings on mine anywhere. Does anybody know who made these two sets of headers, and what they are supposed to fit?

I'm solving this situation on a temporary basis by using a set of Clifford Shorties, but I'd like to know what I can do with the long tubes moving forward.

TIA - enquiring minds want to know!
 
Does one version capture the starter?

The 1st set are OLD clifford.

The 2nd set look like a Mopar Performance/JR header tube layout..but those were single 3" flange, not dual.
Maybe it's Clifford's new amnesia method.
 
Are you sure you have them in the correct position? Did you try to put the front on the back and visa-versa?
 
You can't mix them up, look at the bolts at the top on either end. If you swapped them those flanges would not work.
 
These are the old Mopar/JR headers and are 6 into 1.Photo
IMG_0435.jpg

Those are the Hooker Slant headers I would say. Looking at the #6 tube they look the same as the Hookers that I bought for another project.The ones I have are for a "B" body. The "A" body have that same long tube on the #6 that kinda comes out straight from the flange then turns down. My 2 cents.
Also in the photo (67 Dart) the engine mount bracket faces more forward than the Truck.I never looked to see if the A and B body Hookers have the same part number.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Does one version capture the starter?
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Good question, I will check it out. I'm pretty sure my set will not capture the starter, especially a mini-starter.

HemiSSDart said:
Are you sure you have them in the correct position? Did you try to put the front on the back and visa-versa?
Click to expand...

Interesting thought. I'll mock them up that way and see what it looks like, but they are pre-drilled for the outboard studs. It's a no brainer which one should be where.

More thoughts, I'm aware a BFH would solve my clearance problems, but I'm not sure I want to go whaling on these things to cross the finish line. I'd rather figure out what I have, and then figure out where to go from there.
 
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Just a FYI. Back in the day, Clifford had at least 5 different headers for the slant six. Year and body style was the determining factor.
 
Now see? IF You'd only angle-milled the head for maximum squeeze, You'd be golden! Lol!
Odd there isn't one stamping anywhere, but it wouldn't take much of a tweak up top to make 'em move a bunch below, I'd wedge a block somewhere & heat the tubes near the flange 'til it relaxed. May take 2 or 3 steps, IF they actually fit the chassis they're destined for. Paint be damned!
 
In the next to last & last picture of post #1, if you had someone with a rosebud tip heat either of the 2 collectors, you could tweak one of them so they aren't crowding each other. Which got tweaked would depend on where each of them were aimed to get your exhaust run well. Just my .02 from running /6 headers years & years ago.
 
Hooker Headers use a thin flange. I would say they are older Clifford models.
 
j par said:
I told ya so...:D..
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Yeah, whatever... :(

Charrlie_S said:
Just a FYI. Back in the day, Clifford had at least 5 different headers for the slant six. Year and body style was the determining factor.
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Interesting, I had no idea there were that many. I sent these photos to the folks at Clifford to see if they can help.

Killer6 said:
Now see? IF You'd only angle-milled the head for maximum squeeze, You'd be golden! Lol!
Odd there isn't one stamping anywhere, but it wouldn't take much of a tweak up top to make 'em move a bunch below, I'd wedge a block somewhere & heat the tubes near the flange 'til it relaxed. May take 2 or 3 steps, IF they actually fit the chassis they're destined for. Paint be damned!
Click to expand...

Haha, I don't think this truck would know the difference if I went for max squeeze or not. They need a lot of clearance, the bottom of the flange is at least 1/4" away from the head on the front half. The back set has about a 1/8" gap but I think that's due to being pushed outwards by the front half. Before I am tempted to modify these, I will give them a test fit inside the truck to see what happens.

Here's the gap at for the front half.

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And the gap for the rear half.

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Hyper_pak said:
Hooker Headers use a thin flange. I would say they are older Clifford models.
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Agreed, the flange on these is at least a half inch. Hookers, IIRC, were more like 3/16".
 
Do you think it's going to make or break the truck if you just keep it simple and put a stock manifold on there?..
 
Not really, but there's no sense porting the head, doing bigger valves, adding a much better cam, intake, and carb, and then choking it all off with the exhaust. The shorty headers fit just fine and are getting their final mock-up today. I should be sliding this thing into the truck this weekend. Haha, that is if Mr. Murphy stays the hell away from my project for a bit.
 
Looked at a 2002 Clifford catalog. It lists 6 different headers for the slant. There were also headers not listed in this catalog for the 170 engine in the 60-66 "A" bodies, and at least one header for trucks.
 
After reading Charlie's post I thought it could be probable they're for 170, but is it just me or they hitting the oil pan and bell housing and engine bracket?
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
is it just me or they hitting the oil pan and bell housing and engine bracket?
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Yes, they are hitting the engine mount and the oil pan. They clear the bellhousing. There would need to be a LOT of clearance work to get these to fit.
 
Darter6 said:
These are the old Mopar/JR headers and are 6 into 1.PhotoView attachment 1715733435
Those are the Hooker Slant headers I would say. Looking at the #6 tube they look the same as the Hookers that I bought for another project.The ones I have are for a "B" body. The "A" body have that same long tube on the #6 that kinda comes out straight from the flange then turns down. My 2 cents.
Also in the photo (67 Dart) the engine mount bracket faces more forward than the Truck.I never looked to see if the A and B body Hookers have the same part number.
Click to expand...
Wish mine were coated. Nice.
 
halfafish said:
Yes, they are hitting the engine mount and the oil pan. They clear the bellhousing. There would need to be a LOT of clearance work to get these to fit.
Click to expand...
I wouldnt give up on em. I would bolt them to something solid, wrap a ratchet strap around the tubes that interfere, and pull! Use a comealong or winch if you have to. A kink in a tube is meaningless, pull it till it clears BTDT..
 
33IMP said:
I wouldnt give up on em. I would bolt them to something solid, wrap a ratchet strap around the tubes that interfere, and pull! Use a comealong or winch if you have to. A kink in a tube is meaningless, pull it till it clears BTDT..
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Or he can put them on his car that has a slant six and they would drop right in...
 
Just like you,, I had troubles fitting headers.. The difference being that mine are in a Valiant,, not a truck. As a solution, I ended up modifying my Clifford headers to make things work out better on my six. I found some ancient Edelbrock headers from a Chebbie that had ball flanges and welded them on after cutting the 3 bolt flanges off(always leaked and drove me nuts). This was my third set of headers on my car..... The first headers hung too low and dragged on speed bumps, frustrating(and the K Frame had to be notched)... The second set was ugly because I had to use scrap pieces from an exhaust shop to build them(I couldn't afford to buy tube back then). Then the third set, and still running them today, I have ran for 22 years now, no leaks..... If anyone wants to see a picture, I can go out and take one.

I hope your shorties work well, that is what I used and cut the collectors off of. I ended up putting a heat shield around my starter to help shield it from heat. It came off of a Dodge Diplomat.
 
halfafish said:
A couple of photos would be great. I have to do this all over again on the Valiant so it will be helpful to see what you did.
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Will do, I had to run into town, I am dragging the Valiant out of storage so I can drive it this summer. I will take some pictures for you. Please forgive the dust and spider webs... LOL
 
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