Classic over carburetion problem?

-
No one's running 456 here you don't need as much stall in a converter with that kind of rear gear ratio so you're absolutely right that's a long way from apples to apples
 
K.O. SWINGER said:
How does the car feel at 4500 or 5000 RPMs and above does it pull like a freight train because you have a pretty peaky grind cam and it's going to be soft on the bottom end as mentioned in an earlier post you could use a higher stall converter no doubt! I like to advance my cams 4 degrees it really increases the bottom end pull. Also I have never had a carburetor work at low RPMs better than a thermoquad the small primaries will really help throttle response and low RPM torque.
Click to expand...
That's when it starts to go around 3500 rpm
 
Not to be an ***, but it sounds to me by what questions you’re answering, your searching for a reason to get a bigger stall. Not necessarily looking for the actual issue or issues. If that’s the case get 4500 stall and freaking send it! :steering:
 
Found it

This show winning 1969 Dodge Dart GT belongs to a friend who was having the a/c serviced on that day. Motivation comes from a healthy sounding Mopar Performance 360 Crate Motor, 727 Turbo Shift auto trans with 3200 rpm stall converter, and a 3:91 posi rear axle . . .
 
MomsDuster said:
Not to be an ***, but it sounds to me by what questions you’re answering, your searching for a reason to get a bigger stall. Not necessarily looking for the actual issue or issues. If that’s the case get 4500 stall and freaking send it! :steering:
Click to expand...
Yes you're right I think the thread over..sorry.
 
Absolutely no reason to apologize! The first time I cammed up my 340 I had a brand new 750 competition series AFB stealth intake manifold and hemigrind camshaft ,4 speed and 323 gears **** it looked impressive with all that new aluminum piled on top of my 340 but when I took it out for its maiden run I was a little disappointed I had lost bottom end power and I don't know that it was any faster than the stock setup. Long story short, it wasn't till I put in a set of 391s that it all came together.( Oh yeah )
 
Richie said:
Found it

This show winning 1969 Dodge Dart GT belongs to a friend who was having the a/c serviced on that day. Motivation comes from a healthy sounding Mopar Performance 360 Crate Motor, 727 Turbo Shift auto trans with 3200 rpm stall converter, and a 3:91 posi rear axle . . .
Click to expand...
Well there you go just an example of well matched parts and gear ratios .
 
Comp .488/.491.......sounds like it’s a XE274.

The car would be livelier with a quality 10” converter in it, that flashes to around 3200rpm.

I don’t love VS carbs, so the next move for me, after the converter would be to use a 650DP carb.
I just prefer the feel of how the motor responds to the mechanical secondaries.
 
Do you have enough throttle travel? Is your carb opening completely? This is an easy thing to miss.
 
Mike69cuda said:
Do you have enough throttle travel? Is your carb opening completely? This is an easy thing to miss.
Click to expand...
I'll check that. It was checked at the shop because it was at a weird angle and that was fixed by raising the bracket a bit. The cable is new and it has a locar kick-down that works well.
 
Carb is NOT the problem, cam to big for a little stroke motor (no low end torque) converter will get the rpm up to where the cam starts working (reason race cars have one) 4.30 or more gear will do close to the same thing. Combination is your problem, 3500 vert and less overlap on the cam
 
Ok, Since you won't answer simple questions that'll ultimately help YOU, I'm done. **** this time wastin bullshit.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Ok, Since you won't answer simple questions that'll ultimately help YOU, I'm done. **** this time wastin bullshit.
Click to expand...
Is it a question of having the right tool? I got lots:eek:

CE0D6DEA-1FCE-4D6E-8485-EC34507823E8.jpeg


E8293B67-52F2-4AD0-9C9C-9C150F755904.jpeg


7DA07DD2-2167-4B05-B7C5-F36BE1DA8952.jpeg
 
RustyRatRod said:
If you want help and I know you do, don't just give us a "yes" when asked about timing. WHERE is initial? WHERE is total? These are specific questions that need specific answers to help you. If your answer is "I don't know", then, you've not done your work on your end. If you don't know, get those numbers for us and report back. Also, if you can get a plug out and run a compression test on that one cylinder, that will help us help you dial the timing in even more.

I saw you answered "yes" to both the camshaft and distributor timing question. If you can tell us "where" the camshaft timing is, that will also help.

As much information as possible will get you the best answers as possible.
Click to expand...
Sorry had to have a nap. I don't know enough about that kind of thing to know for sure but the shop would have done that wouldn't they?
 
Richie said:
Sorry had to have a nap. I don't know enough about that kind of thing to know for sure but the shop would have done that wouldn't they?
Click to expand...

Oh yeah. Every "shop" on the planet looks out for your best interests. <rolls eyes>
 
Richie said:
Found the build sheet and nothing about dialing in the crank...So no. The timing was reset when the engine was pinging a bit too much. That's all I know.
Click to expand...

Ok. Unless you want to grab the bull by the horns and learn this yourself, we're all just wasting our time here. I'm not giving advice while being questioned through a third party who obviously didn't know what they were doing. Talk about a clusterfu#!.

Now, if you want to get your hands dirty, go out and get a compression reading on a gauge, get a timing light and tell us where initial and total timing are, I'm all for helping you. But all this "wouldn't the shop have done that" mess is stupid.

Obviously they DIDN'T do it, because here you are asking for help. I mean all this in the most helpful way possible. If you want to provide us with some solid info to work with, I'm all for it. Otherwise, we're rowin with one oar in the water.
 
Last edited:
RustyRatRod said:
Ok. Unless you want to grab the bull by the horns and learn this yourself, we're all just wasting out time here. I'm not giving advice while being questioned through a third party who obviously didn't know what they were doing. Talk about a clusterfu#!.

Now, if you want to get your hands dirty, go out and get a compression reading on a gauge, get a timing light and tell us where initial and total timing are, I'm all for helping you. But all this "wouldn't the shop have done that" mess is stupid.

Obviously they DIDN'T do it, because here you are asking for help. I mean all this in the most helpful way possible. If you want to provide us with some solid info to work with, I'm all for it. Otherwise, we're rowin with one oar in the water.
Click to expand...
Alright. I'll have to get some things and do some reading.
 
so if engine was pinging do you run high test fuel /put some octane booster in and reset engine timing and try it again /your compression could be to high/ take a compression test as others have said.
 
teringer said:
so if engine was pinging do you run high test fuel /put some octane booster in and reset engine timing and try it again /your compression could be to high/ take a compression test as others have said.
Click to expand...
Be sure to get the best booster you can. Many of the are crap. Do your research.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top