Cylinder Head Choice

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Might be cheaper to just get a used Hellcat :poke: :lol:

Good luck. do a build thread to show your progress

Maybe, but where’s the fun in that? :lol:


I’ll definitely update the board with progress when and as it’s made!
 
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That’s just it, drove a stock Hellcat and FELL IN LOVE with how it drove! The response, the power, everything! I finally am in a place where I have the time and monetary resources to learn (albeit lacking space and knowledge) and would love to pack somewhere in the ballpark of that power range. I know it’s a challenge, but I am up for it!
That's cool. You can build a 10.5 car. Here's how I'd do it. I'd start in the back of the car.
  • Install a Dana 60 rear end, 3.54 or 4.10 gears with caltracs
  • Install sub frame connectors, drive shaft loop and roll cage
  • Run a 3/8 fuel line with electric fuel pump, make sure it's all NHRA/IHRA legal
  • Make sure the front suspension and brakes are up to par
  • Build a 904 that's up for about 550 hp
  • You'll end up having a custom converter built to your build, probably a 8", but minimum 9.5"
  • Build a 550 HP motor
  • You'll need some MT Drag radials....
  • GOOD LUCK !!!! KEEP US POSTED
 
Maybe, but where’s the fun in that? :lol:


I’ll definitely update the board with progress when and as it’s made!
I agree. I'm in the middle of a big challenge right now and wouldn't change a thing to make it easier. I'll be poorer but a lot smarter when it is done.
 
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That's cool. You can build a 10.5 car. Here's how I'd do it. I'd start in the back of the car.
  • Install a Dana 60 rear end, 3.54 or 4.10 gears with caltracs
  • Install sub frame connectors, drive shaft loop and roll cage
  • Run a 3/8 fuel line with electric fuel pump, make sure it's all NHRA/IHRA legal
  • Make sure the front suspension and brakes are up to par
  • Build a 904 that's up for about 550 hp
  • You'll end up having a custom converter built to your build, probably a 8", but minimum 9.5"
  • Build a 550 HP motor
  • You'll need some MT Drag radials....
  • GOOD LUCK !!!! KEEP US POSTED

HELL YEAH! Thank you!!!
 
HELL YEAH! Thank you!!!
Are you against nitrous?, makes a nice reliable driver a ten second beast at the track and when you've had your fill you turn off the bottle and drive home. You would need to upgrade the bottom end with some forged pistons etc. but the really nice thing about nitrous-or most other power adders-is they mask the inefficiency of more streetable parts like higher rear gears etc. But you will still need better gears than 2.76s lol.
 
Are you against nitrous?, makes a nice reliable driver a ten second beast at the track and when you've had your fill you turn off the bottle and drive home. You would need to upgrade the bottom end with some forged pistons etc. but the really nice thing about nitrous-or most other power adders-is they mask the inefficiency of more streetable parts like higher rear gears etc. But you will still need better gears than 2.76s lol.

I think nitrous would be cheating for what I’m trying to do. At this point I’m down to go the impractical, expensive route and naturally aspirate!
 
I think nitrous would be cheating for what I’m trying to do. At this point I’m down to go the impractical, expensive route and naturally aspirate!
Nothing wrong with that, just makes the goal allot harder and allot more expensive with a street car. As 318 suggested more cubes will help, or you need a 7k 318 with 4.56 to 4.88 gears and depending on you're definition of streetability it may not be much fun. One thing for sure, it won't drive like a hellcat!.
 
After thinking about these types of threads it seems there were a few guys that were wanting to go tens with 318s in "streetable" cars and I have yet to see one make the goal. I know there are 318 cars running tens but the ones I have seen are full on race cars. Yes you can blur the lines buts lets face it we all know the difference between a race car on the street and a street car that can run tens.

I completely understand guys wanting to have the satisfaction of doing more with less but I see it from a different point of view. As a minimalist in general do I: A. I spend the money and build the most cubes and hit it with a 100 shot to be more streetable, B. build a 318 with the same expensive parts but more cam etc. to turn the rpm to try to make the power, or C. just build a race car and hit the local streets once in a while. My options are A. and C.

Just my random Saturday thoughts but with that said it's a badass thing to have a screaming small block that runs the numbers, just ask @yellow rose lol. Him and I have two completely different animals in our garages and both do similar things in the end.
 
LA 318 in a 73 Swinger.
Intake is LD4B
750CFM Edelbrock 4 Barrel carb
Can’t do a push rod check
Street/Drag use!
Get the speed master heads either assembled or bare (as a pair of cylinder heads) on Black Friday discount.
Take them to a REPUTABLE machine shop and have the shop install valves, springs and shims to match your cams, rocker shafts (you can search and buy rockers & give them to the machine shop) tell the machine shop to check the valve guides for tightness or looseness.

I built up J heads for $500 doing the same thing and you COULD mill them to a decent chamber size (& mill the intake manifold side correspondingly) maybe port then yourself to 220cfm,

or for a total of $1000-1100 have 239cfm (intake) flowing closed chamber heads that can later be ported during your next engine rebuild.

the assembled magnum heads are another option that might have 191cfm (intake)-the engine quest copies run as little as $900 a pair and rebuilt magnums should be much less.

this BULLSHIT about “Trick Flow, Edelbrock Victor or a ported version of an Edelbrock.” isn’t for the typical 318 engine builder; those heads go on rocket 340/360’s but more often on 406”++cubic inch stroker engines. The port volume of the victor or trick flow would make your low rpm performance lazy and not match the camshaft you mentioned as well. They are for HIGH rpms on a 318
 
Get the speed master heads either assembled or bare (as a pair of cylinder heads) on Black Friday discount.
Take them to a REPUTABLE machine shop and have the shop install valves, springs and shims to match your cams, rocker shafts (you can search and buy rockers & give them to the machine shop) tell the machine shop to check the valve guides for tightness or looseness.

I built up J heads for $500 doing the same thing and you COULD mill them to a decent chamber size (& mill the intake manifold side correspondingly) maybe port then yourself to 220cfm,

or for a total of $1000-1100 have 239cfm (intake) flowing closed chamber heads that can later be ported during your next engine rebuild.

the assembled magnum heads are another option that might have 191cfm (intake)-the engine quest copies run as little as $900 a pair and rebuilt magnums should be much less.

this BULLSHIT about “Trick Flow, Edelbrock Victor or a ported version of an Edelbrock.” isn’t for the typical 318 engine builder; those heads go on rocket 340/360’s but more often on 406”++cubic inch stroker engines. The port volume of the victor or trick flow would make your low rpm performance lazy and not match the camshaft you mentioned as well. They are for HIGH rpms on a 318

This is the cam/lifters I ended up choosing per RumbleFish360’s suggestion and returned the one in my original post.

Mopar Performance P4120657AE Mopar Performance Purple Camshaft Kits | Summit Racing

I don’t have access to a machine shop and can’t port myself, so it’s down to getting the right set of assembled heads and good converter.

Ended up ordering a Moser 60 Muscle Pak with a 4.10 and Wilwood Brakes as well as a rear suspension upgrade from XV Racing.
 
This is the cam/lifters I ended up choosing per RumbleFish360’s suggestion and returned the one in my original post.

Mopar Performance P4120657AE Mopar Performance Purple Camshaft Kits | Summit Racing

I don’t have access to a machine shop and can’t port myself, so it’s down to getting the right set of assembled heads and good converter.

Ended up ordering a Moser 60 Muscle Pak with a 4.10 and Wilwood Brakes as well as a rear suspension upgrade from XV Racing.



Uhhhhhh...I don’t want to pee in your parade, but Summit doesn’t have that in stock. I’d be beyond surprised if Chrysler ever made another cam for older engines. If it’s not a Gen III hemi they don’t give a single crap about it.

Just an FYI because that has a July ship date and I don’t believe that for a New York second. So I would at least have a back up plan if (actually I think it’s when) this cam falls through.
 
Uhhhhhh...I don’t want to pee in your parade, but Summit doesn’t have that in stock. I’d be beyond surprised if Chrysler ever made another cam for older engines. If it’s not a Gen III hemi they don’t give a single crap about it.

Just an FYI because that has a July ship date and I don’t believe that for a New York second. So I would at least have a back up plan if (actually I think it’s when) this cam falls through.

Good call! I’ll cancel the Summit order and get it from Jegs?

Mopar Performance P4120657AE: Purple Shaft Mechanical Camshaft & Lifter Kit Chrysler 273, 318, 340, 360 | JEGS
 
Wait.... have you ever done this before because your questions are super rookie in nature.

The TF’s are more pricey but better but also have more expensive rocker gear to upgrade to. Several hundred dollars worth in rockers alone.

If your looking for a parts list to run 10.5’s in the 1/4, you should ask first instead of just asking over and over again on bits and pieces.

FWIW, I’m not interested in giving a crash course and parts list to do this only to have you or someone else complain it didn’t work. It’s a **** long list nevermind the instructions of what to do with it and how it should be done.

Click the link below (sig) or get the book itself.
I'm a Trick Flow dealer and just wanted to clarify, Trick Flow recommends a pricey rocker arm, but there are many varieties that work just fine for a lot less money.
 
Find a engine builder near you that is familiar with small block Mopars and tell him your story. You need a completely rebuilt motor to achieve your goal and it isn't going to be successful by picking suggestions off an internet forum. I don't know how much HP it takes to get your car to 10.5 but doing it with a 318 is going to take a PLAN from someone who knows what they are doing. I would bet you'd be in for $6-8k in the motor alone.
I am just east of Harrisburg if you are in need of a builder.
 
If you have five or six k to throw at the car how about just dialing up a blueprint engine and having that sent to your door??.. carburetor to oil pan distributor to water pump with a warranty...
I like 318 will runs suggestions of building from the back and working your way forward... When we were kids we would put an intake manifold Cam and headers and start breaking drivelines rear ends and transmissions and bottom ends of motors... Cuz we got older we started building them from the back forward...
If you buy that blueprint engine you'll find all the weak parts behind it LOL...
 
FYI I pretty much put Speedmaster pre-assembled heads on my stroker dual quad tunnel ram and they work great..
Pay 95 bucks to a shop to look them over and they said there was nothing wrong with them...
 
After thinking about these types of threads it seems there were a few guys that were wanting to go tens with 318s in "streetable" cars and I have yet to see one make the goal. I know there are 318 cars running tens but the ones I have seen are full on race cars. Yes you can blur the lines buts lets face it we all know the difference between a race car on the street and a street car that can run tens.

I completely understand guys wanting to have the satisfaction of doing more with less but I see it from a different point of view. As a minimalist in general do I: A. I spend the money and build the most cubes and hit it with a 100 shot to be more streetable, B. build a 318 with the same expensive parts but more cam etc. to turn the rpm to try to make the power, or C. just build a race car and hit the local streets once in a while. My options are A. and C.

Just my random Saturday thoughts but with that said it's a badass thing to have a screaming small block that runs the numbers, just ask @yellow rose lol. Him and I have two completely different animals in our garages and both do similar things in the end.
I'm not sure it's "doing more with less", but more of "I want to work with what I have". There are 318's on the street faster than you think, but they are either on boost or bottle.
 
If you have five or six k to throw at the car how about just dialing up a blueprint engine and having that sent to your door??.. carburetor to oil pan distributor to water pump with a warranty...
I totally understand the blueprint "making sense". However, this guy is willing to get his hands dirty and learn it, and that will pay dividends his entire life.
 
I totally understand the blueprint "making sense". However, this guy is willing to get his hands dirty and learn it, and that will pay dividends his entire life.

Thank you! I really want to learn this engine, this car, etc. For what it’s worth, a spinal injury put me out of being able to drive for a long time. My mom (who doesn’t understand anything about cars) loaned my first car out while I was at college to someone who wrecked it.

I admit that I don’t know almost anything about cars, especially compared to folks on this forum - but that’s why I’m here to learn. I’m finally somewhere in life that I can make this car that means so much to me into the overbuilt brick shithouse of my dreams, and I’m fortunate enough that this forum and the folks here on it can help teach me how to achieve it. So while I know you can boost a car to achieve my goal, I’m glad I can do it the hard way.
 
Thank you! I really want to learn this engine, this car, etc. For what it’s worth, a spinal injury put me out of being able to drive for a long time. My mom (who doesn’t understand anything about cars) loaned my first car out while I was at college to someone who wrecked it.

I admit that I don’t know almost anything about cars, especially compared to folks on this forum - but that’s why I’m here to learn. I’m finally somewhere in life that I can make this car that means so much to me into the overbuilt brick shithouse of my dreams, and I’m fortunate enough that this forum and the folks here on it can help teach me how to achieve it. So while I know you can boost a car to achieve my goal, I’m glad I can do it the hard way.
you get help here, some good folks on FABO. I appreciate you chasing your dream with this car, and I wish you all the best !!
 
Thank you! I really want to learn this engine, this car, etc. For what it’s worth, a spinal injury put me out of being able to drive for a long time. My mom (who doesn’t understand anything about cars) loaned my first car out while I was at college to someone who wrecked it.

I admit that I don’t know almost anything about cars, especially compared to folks on this forum - but that’s why I’m here to learn. I’m finally somewhere in life that I can make this car that means so much to me into the overbuilt brick shithouse of my dreams, and I’m fortunate enough that this forum and the folks here on it can help teach me how to achieve it. So while I know you can boost a car to achieve my goal, I’m glad I can do it the hard way.


Then go for it. You can’t learn just by reading, but you can learn by reading AND doing. And that’s the best way to do it. Read everything you can find. Marry none of it. Then start applying what you read and see how it goes.

You’ll do just fine. You already have the right attitude. That’s 98.75% of the battle right there.
 
Then go for it. You can’t learn just by reading, but you can learn by reading AND doing. And that’s the best way to do it. Read everything you can find. Marry none of it. Then start applying what you read and see how it goes.

You’ll do just fine. You already have the right attitude. That’s 98.75% of the battle right there.
only because you disagreed with me... :D
 
I totally understand the blueprint "making sense". However, this guy is willing to get his hands dirty and learn it, and that will pay dividends his entire life.
they'll be crap loads of stuff to get your hands dirty on even if you're handed a brand new motor... That's only one part of a large puzzle...
 
I haven’t read all of the replies for this thread, but with your level of experience the best thing you could do would be to find a FABO member in the Philly area, buy him lunch or a 12 pack or whatever he wants to sit down with you and help you come up with a build plan.
To reach your goal of being in the 10s with what it sounds like you’re starting with, you’re looking at upgrading everything - engine, transmission, rear end and probably suspension too. I’m sure there’s someone in your area from this site that’s willing to go into more detail on your plans, and unless you want the fun(?) of building your own engine from the ground up you may consider just buying a stroker small block from a respected builder online.
 
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