Another overheating situation 63 Slant six

-
Hideogumperjr said:
See 1st photo on post #44. Its on the left.
Click to expand...

Ok on the radiator tank. That's a bad spot. The water there is about as HOT as it gets going into the top tank. Does the sensor have a predetermined temp it cuts the fan on? Is it adjustable? It should be located as close to the temp sender as possible.
 
So to be clear, the radiator I am using was one I got off of CL for a later model Dart, 72 I think they said.

It mounted ok in my 63 but the core was too close to the fan so I took it off and used an electric fan.

The thermostat mounting hole was there so I used it with a 180° thermostat, this was a matter of convenience, not choice.

This weekend after flushing the radiator I drove around and had no overheating issues after a twice as long drive as before. I decided to put the thermostat back in but couldn't find my stash of good ones. I decided to buy a new one. went and picked it up from AZone but it would not fit.

PO'd I started looking around the garage and low and behold I found the box with 4 or 5 thermostats.

Put the 180° in, filled it up with water, (testing only so I didn't lose coolant) and drove around a bit and temp hit about 210° and stated dropping right rapidly back to 170-180°. Figured the spike was air bubble but haven't topped coolant and driven again because its supposed to rain. Once I verify no overheating Ill put 50/50 coolant back in and be happy (I hope!)

Thanks for the direction and helping me with my frustration.

Now on to why its running so rough, could be bad gas as its been sitting since last year or something else like valves that I messed with troubleshooting the overheating.

Cheers yall!
 
Check the fitment dimensions on an early Mustang aluminum radiator in that 63. Probably a few more out there than early A Mopars but mine fit my 65 A with just 2 mlre holes drilled in the bracket.. Valve adjustment....always a good starting point on a solid lifter slant. 6 plugs and a can of Gumout shot into the carb at a fast idle.
 
So to put this to bed, the overheating seems to have been corrected with the above two corrections, backflushing the radiator and switching the brackets from the old to the new and putting the stock fan back on.
Thanks for all the help.
 
That's good news!
I figure these cars ran just fine with factory equipment and if everything is in good shape, they'll still be reliable.
 
Hideogumperjr said:
The o-heating started a couple of years ago, after I'd replaced the radiator and moved from the stock fan to the electric
Click to expand...
How many times do I have to hear this same thing.

Go back to all stock and your problems will most likely be solved.
 
Cost Cost Cost! Retired man balking!

Original radiator was shot, my estimate was $650 to get it re-cored, got a later model radiator that mostly fit cause I could afford it.

So going back to stock for some of us is a bit too pricy so we gotta make do for the time being so "going back to stock" just wont work in my situation.

Got some good advice. radiator clogged, backflush it, replace the brackets. All great info also for someone looking for "Another overheating situation 63 slant six!"

Yall have a great eveni

upload_2021-5-17_15-42-12.png
 
Last edited:
Hideogumperjr said:
Cost Cost Cost! Retired man balking!

Original radiator was shot, my estimate was $650 to get it re-cored, got a later model radiator that mostly fit cause I could afford it.

So going back to stock for some of us is a bit too pricy so we gotta make do for the time being so "going back to stock" just wont work in my situation.

Got some good advice. radiator clogged, backflush it, replace the brackets. All great info also for someone looking for "Another overheating situation 63 slant six!"

Yall have a great evening!

View attachment 1715739017
Click to expand...

I can certainly relate. If it's anyone that can relate to cost, it's me.
 
yeah, Id checked them. $571-930. Bit out of my budget right now, disabled and retired. Can you say SS?
But it is running just right now, we have had near ;80 here in my part of Seattle and after punching hard up long hills after running aroud for 2 minutes or so temp only went to a little of 200.I can live with that. So I moving on to low rpm and dying on stops and securing my convertible top fully now.
Thanks Man!
 
Hideogumperjr said:
Hi Guys, its been a long time since Ive been on here, been trying to get stuff done but my old body is just giving me fits and its getting harder and harder to do anything on the girl now a days. Heck, harder to get anything done now, hands arthritic.

So here is my problem, I am overheating at just getting around, I cant drive two miles here in Seattle, read that cool, and it will overheat.

A little history, engine was rebuilt completely a few years ago, block was tanked and cleaned, head rebuilt and all. I had the original radiator checked and it was toast so I bought one off of CL for a later model Dart.

The problem I found though is that the core is biased towards the engine compartment while the original was biased away from the compartment, end result, the radiator is too close to the fan so I removed the stock fan and am using a 16" electric fan in front of the radiator pushing air through. Ive had it there since 2017.

Ive lost coolant so replaced with only water and it overheated, last fall I did 50/50 new antifreeze, lost it this week.

The electric fan is here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VVWTAA2/?tag=fabo03-20

Upgr8 Universal High Performance 12V Slim Electric Cooling Radiator Fan With Fan Mounting Kit (16 Inch, Black) Comes with mount brackets , and tie straps kit
Maximum Fan CFM=3000 CFM, Maximum Fan RPM=2250 RPM
Size: 16 Inch, Thickness: 3.25 Inch
10 Blades, 12 Volts, 120W
OE Fitment or Replacement, Push or Pull Type

The radiator has a place for a sensor so I installed a thermostatic switch at 185︒F to turn on the fan. There is no fan shroud now nor never as far as I know.

I installed relays for all electronics per FABO and SSO suggestions. The fan circuit has a relay.

Since the radiator change the heating cooling has been topsy. I have put a new radiator cap on it, I have tried different thermostats at different temps, 160-185 I believe it is. I have an electronic temperature gauge inside the passenger compartment so I can see what the temp is and it certainly goes to overheating, 225︒F+, and only on a short two mile ride here is Seattle air temp was 60︒F.

I tried to run it while it was cooler here and it overheated so I drained antifreeze and removed the thermostat. It still overheated. Im pretty much at my wits end here and Ive been reading many of the posts here for overheating, Ive tried to make sure Ive covered all the suggestions so I guess my question is would the radiator the problem and should I just replace the damn thing with an aluminum 2 row? I wanted to try to get the original fixed so it would be the correct one but here in my area north of Seattle there is mostly no radiator shops. The man who did my previous radiator work died, I recently found out, a couple of years ago. Was going to take the car there to be fixed, I'm at that point.

Afraid to drive ANYWHERE!

Anyway, glad to be back online and want to get this fixed so I can drive her and I'm at the point of just selling her because of this dang overheating.

Any thoughts, new cuss words and such would be appreciated.

Thanks yall.
Click to expand...
 
If someone else hasn't already suggested it, the 63 slant 6 water pump shaft runs on a plastic bushing
which can come loose and the impeller shaft slips. Could happen at any time really even though your pump is fairly new. Worth a check.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top