LCA Bushings and Other Bushings

You have to lube the pin because the LCA rotates on the pin with poly bushings. It doesn’t do that with the OE bushing.

The fact that has to be called out to you says you either just don’t know what the frick you are talking about or you just want to be a prick and make everyone think you are right when you clearly are not.


I thought the pin can't slide out because of its tight fit. If it can turn it can slide. If you lube it it can slide out even easier. Gotha

If you read my post above I said while foot braking the car it pushes the wheel back and in turn forces the arm against the K-member. When launching the pressure release causes the LCA to bounce back which was causing my wheels to bounce front when they came up. Look at the toe change in the video above when the wheels would come up.

This same movement can be seen if you foot brake the car in reverse. The arm moves away from the K-member. The space we measured is 3/8 -1/2 inch as stated above. You can move it back that far with a pry bar on the lift . the torsion bar clip stops the movement. Without the torsion bar in you can pry it off the pin. The arm pivots back on the rubber strut bushing.

I built a lot of mopars over the years and I will never again use anything but OEM style parts. The OEM LCA bushings don't rip if tightened in the factory ride height position. The pin is tightened in the center of the arm travel. You guys that jack them up like they are 4x4's better use poly bushings. LMFAO

Brought a barracuda home with poly and adjustable struts. I'll get some picks on the lift when it comes in. I finally took the car for a ride the car wonders at high speed. We are tearing all the aftermarket junk out and lowering the car to stock ride height. It is way to high for comfort and the poly junk and struts have to go. Yeah it has all the things you all are talking about. What a mess.

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