Chassis Tuning
Asking for clarification because this paragraph seems contradictory.
To get more travel for more weight transfer, you would need to take turns out to lower the left-front torsion bar in order to get more transfer and "throw" more weight on the right-rear, if the car is pulling right. Lowerered left-front gives more travel (running start) and looser shocks make the travel easier. At least that worked for me with adjustable shocks up front set towards the loose side. However, it seems like stiffer front shocks wouldn't be as effective because it would be more difficult to raise/transfer/throw the weight.
My rear shock philosophy is the harder it leaves, the stiffer the shocks should be. Mopar had "auto" and "stick" rear shocks long ago. But I found out that converter and engine technology had surpassed their original recommendations since their 'stick" rear shocks weren't enough my particular auto/footbrake combo and I went to Rancho 9-way rear shocks.
OP - It's a complicated formula with a lot of factors to consider. Like an "orchestra", it ALL has to work together to get the "music" you want.
I don't disagree with any of that.
My 2nd Sentence makes sence only in my mind.:wtf::D
K so if you had scales on all for tires, and you tightened the driver side front(LF) t- bar you would add more weight to that wheel as well as loosing a small amount to the driver side rear wheel(LR). But would add more weight to the right rear tire(RR).
SS Spring have a Stink Bug look and also have what i call the Gangster Lean. AKA the RR sets Higher then the LR does, Right?
So when i replaced my SS Spring with a new set. And rebuilt my front end with less friction front end parts. And with vary little data on tuning this type of suspension. i decided to make the LF T-bar hold most of the weight of the front end. this caused the gangster lean to go away.(causing it to load the RR tire and lift, take weight off of LR
With a good set of slick, and me not making enough Power to pull the front end up. all seamed OK. When i put my "dot tires on that were more like pizza cuter tires, compared to my slicks, and they would not hook.
More importantly it would kick sideways every time i tried to do a long burn out............also kicked out when i launched and spun all the way out.
I had no clue if turning the LF T-bar loose was going to help or make it worse. as luck would have it it made it better and after 3 full turn of the T-Bolt, out or loose. it launched straight, even though i was roasting the tires through 1st and 2nt gear.
So when i said:
Adding more turns to the left front T-bar will raise the left front, But will also add more weight (bite) in the Right rear tire. It was the excessive tension on the LF T- bar that caused my car to go right(*** end went right) and is why i said that.
All thoughts welcome. Still learning on this stuff.
