Two 360 builds idea for heads

-
Take this cam, “The performer RPM 7177 308* dur. 112*CL 488”lift” and sell it. Or! Cut it up and use it for fishing weights.

Do so use the Purple Cam.
Is that RPM cam really that bad?? I had one in a 318 once. Seemed okay, maybe I didn’t know any better.
 
Is that RPM cam really that bad?? I had one in a 318 once. Seemed okay, maybe I didn’t know any better.
Here is my opinion, FWIW.
I’m not a huge fan of a LSA greater than 110 on NA pump gas hot rods. For the general public, a 110 or better IMO, a 108 would have been great. The draw back on my take is the power brakes suffer.

Now if it were “I” that developed that so called “Power Package.” I would take notice of the cylinder heads capabilities in terms of the ports flow. Why is it Edelbrock limited there cam to a lift where a home bowl porting and very mild port work be done on a stock head & become equal or darn near if not maybe better? Head porters chime in!

Why not take advantage of the ports abilities? There is a lot of untapped flow waiting there to make a more HP.

Take a look at the advertised duration vs the duration @.050. The lobe could be a little more aggressive. IMO, that lobe is even a bit lazy.
 
I’m still contemplating parts and all. Sold off the RPM cam, keeping the purple shaft .280*/.477. How would this cam work with a tunnel ram, with a pair of edelbrock 600cfm 1406’s. I picked up this TR5, not that I needed it, but it’s so damn cool. I was cleaning up the garage and put the 360 up on the stand, slapped some parts on it. This has to happen, the look is killer.
1898F9FE-2C85-43C5-9205-16DEF6696AB3.jpeg
477E234F-30C2-4817-B1B2-7B42D86A6665.jpeg
 
I am no expert but I would guess that cam would do very well with at least 9.5-1 and some good head flow. Should be very responsive with the right gear and converter.
 
Should have plenty enough squeeze with the dome KB373 pistons. I have a 904 reverse manual valve body 2500 Hughes stall and/or 727 TG2 with 3K PTC converter.
 
Rob I may try Scott’s in Fayetteville he’s done a couple for D717. Scott's Auto Machine - Scott's Auto Machine & Parts Company, Inc. Home did you have someone in mind to refer?
Good luck in Fayetteville , my block was there 6 months waiting to be bored because he has torque plates well picked it up and took to Hensley up in TN.
I have good shop in Fort Valley also if thats better for you , Killian's Porting service in Warner Robbins has been using Ft Valley shop only for over 20 years.
 
Good luck in Fayetteville , my block was there 6 months waiting to be bored because he has torque plates well picked it up and took to Hensley up in TN.
I have good shop in Fort Valley also if thats better for you , Killian's Porting service in Warner Robbins has been using Ft Valley shop only for over 20 years.
Oh thanks for the insight haven’t used them yet they are close about 20mins. I’ll check out ft valley.
 
Yeah, that LA definitely looks like a lot of fun! On a side note, my very old school machinist tells me to hold about 6500 rpm limit on the cast crank bottom end. I’m sure there exceptions to the rule, but that’s what he suggests with the stock crank.
Must be a Chevy guy!
 
Man I got kick in the nuts twice today on my 360 build. Well let me back track to yesterday where I spent most of the day off and on prepping my LA block for rebuild, I removed the cam bearings,de-burred all the casting flash on the block. Pressure washed the block for its first good cleaning, dried and blew out all passages with compressed air. Then a nice coat of WD40 to prevent flash rust. Today I opened up my re-ring kit that I bought from northern auto, nothing special standard kit. I pull out the crank bearings to install, so I can plasti-gauge the crank. Got all the uppers installed looking good until I notice the last bearing was damaged. Dammit!!! No big deal called northern they had clevites on the self and will send them out Monday. So I refocused and I was going to start with a quick hone to deglaze the cylinders, which had cross hatch from previous rebuild but could use just a tad of cleaning up. As I was wiping the cylinders down with a clean rag, I found a small pin hole in the number 1 cylinder. It looks like it was exposed by the last rebuild when they went .030” over, a tiny air pocket I presume. It’s not rust through and it’s very small, I guess they ran it like that. But I can’t seem to get over it so it needs to either be bored over or re-sleeved. I can’t see me running it like that. Wonder what a sleeve would cost I have the .030 over domed pistons that are balanced with the rest of the internals so I don’t won’t to overbore if I can help it. I was so motivated to start building it too, took all the wind out my sails that and getting over covid this week has been a real drag. Anyway I will carry on with my woes.
42B988CA-D553-4AE7-8401-53441863AD6B.jpeg
838F0064-E8AE-4B58-B4C3-135F6DF63B27.jpeg
D38356BC-07DB-4DDA-A621-2F8640FA4E36.jpeg
 
I’m still contemplating parts and all. Sold off the RPM cam, keeping the purple shaft .280*/.477. How would this cam work with a tunnel ram, with a pair of edelbrock 600cfm 1406’s. I picked up this TR5, not that I needed it, but it’s so damn cool. I was cleaning up the garage and put the 360 up on the stand, slapped some parts on it. This has to happen, the look is killer. View attachment 1715741923View attachment 1715741924

That is single handedly the best tunnel ram ever made for anything, bar none. It will be a total beast when you get those carburetors tuned right. I recommend sideways mount because that will keep the fuel from being mashed up against the back of the float bowls and will help with fuel starvation on hard acceleration.....and it looks cool.
 
Man I got kick in the nuts twice today on my 360 build. Well let me back track to yesterday where I spent most of the day off and on prepping my LA block for rebuild, I removed the cam bearings,de-burred all the casting flash on the block. Pressure washed the block for its first good cleaning, dried and blew out all passages with compressed air. Then a nice coat of WD40 to prevent flash rust. Today I opened up my re-ring kit that I bought from northern auto, nothing special standard kit. I pull out the crank bearings to install, so I can plasti-gauge the crank. Got all the uppers installed looking good until I notice the last bearing was damaged. Dammit!!! No big deal called northern they had clevites on the self and will send them out Monday. So I refocused and I was going to start with a quick hone to deglaze the cylinders, which had cross hatch from previous rebuild but could use just a tad of cleaning up. As I was wiping the cylinders down with a clean rag, I found a small pin hole in the number 1 cylinder. It looks like it was exposed by the last rebuild when they went .030” over, a tiny air pocket I presume. It’s not rust through and it’s very small, I guess they ran it like that. But I can’t seem to get over it so it needs to either be bored over or re-sleeved. I can’t see me running it like that. Wonder what a sleeve would cost I have the .030 over domed pistons that are balanced with the rest of the internals so I don’t won’t to overbore if I can help it. I was so motivated to start building it too, took all the wind out my sails that and getting over covid this week has been a real drag. Anyway I will carry on with my woes. View attachment 1715777671 View attachment 1715777672View attachment 1715777673

Seriously? Get a small wire and stick it in that hole and see how deep it is. If it's JUST below the surface, run heck out of it. I wouldn't even worry with it unless it's pretty deep.
 
Seriously? Get a small wire and stick it in that hole and see how deep it is. If it's JUST below the surface, run heck out of it. I wouldn't even worry with it unless it's pretty deep.

THIS ^^^^^^^
 
Rob I may try Scott’s in Fayetteville he’s done a couple for D717. Scott's Auto Machine - Scott's Auto Machine & Parts Company, Inc. Home did you have someone in mind to refer?

Be prepared to wait !!
I used Scotts for 20 years from Kohler motors to Amc 401s and RB & LA builds my last motor set there for a year waiting for the build to BEGIN so I picked block up and took to Hensley in TN .
Killians highly recommends a machine shop in Fort Valley GA im sure Rusty knows of them ???
 
For the LA I have two hydraulic cams that may not be ideal but I have em. A performer RPM 7177 308* dur. 112*CL 488”lift and a MP4286630 280* dur. 110*CL .474” lift. The MP is new but has rust on it that needs a lot of cleaning maybe a vinegar bath and see how it turns out. Wish it was stored better. View attachment 1715711491

Run that cam dont look back !!
 
Be prepared to wait !!
I used Scotts for 20 years from Kohler motors to Amc 401s and RB & LA builds my last motor set there for a year waiting for the build to BEGIN so I picked block up and took to Hensley in TN .
Killians highly recommends a machine shop in Fort Valley GA im sure Rusty knows of them ???
@RustyRatRod I do believe so.
 
@RustyRatRod I do believe so.

I'm sure he's talking about Sam Odom at S&M. They are good friends.....however, I part from Killian on that opinion. All Sam knows is Chevy stuff. I have some stories, but I'd rather not expound on them here. I wouldn't take him a Mopar for love nor money. I've had really good service recently from Mid State Machine in Macon. They do a fine job.
 
I'm sure he's talking about Sam Odom at S&M. They are good friends.....however, I part from Killian on that opinion. All Sam knows is Chevy stuff. I have some stories, but I'd rather not expound on them here. I wouldn't take him a Mopar for love nor money. I've had really good service recently from Mid State Machine in Macon. They do a fine job.
Yep most shops are Chebby shops -
I will be heading to TN from now on [Mopar shop and good folks to deal with.]
 
Yep most shops are Chebby shops -
I will be heading to TN from now on [Mopar shop and good folks to deal with.]

The problem comes in when they think they know about all makes from dealing with one. That's Sam's attitude. He has......or had when his daddy was alive an entire machine library on every domestic make and yet refused to crack a book. I'll just stop right there. lol

These guys I'm dealing with now are really good. I like them a lot so far.
 
The problem comes in when they think they know about all makes from dealing with one. That's Sam's attitude. He has......or had when his daddy was alive an entire machine library on every domestic make and yet refused to crack a book. I'll just stop right there. lol

These guys I'm dealing with now are really good. I like them a lot so far.

I have seen such , few Humans know ALL makes as much as they claim !!
To many variables between all of Detroit's offerings.
 
I have seen such , few Humans know ALL makes as much as they claim !!
To many variables between all of Detroit's offerings.

That's right. A good MACHINIST is good regardless of make. Any idiot can learn one thing "good enough" to skate by. That's Sam in a nutshell. LOL
 
Ok moving on, Ya’ll threaten me with a good time. So I honed the cylinders, pressure washed the block again and installed dura bond pd16 cam bearings. My rusty cam is getting a vinegar bath and it’s cleaning up nicely.
D08BDDEE-8E14-40BE-8496-4138367965FA.jpeg
7A948424-CB4E-49FE-9D3C-D842ADABB3FF.jpeg
4C0C9301-3693-4DBA-B3FC-A687578E1C7F.jpeg
 
Wow it’s been a while how about an update…I see my last post was in august so right around the time I got covid. I guess it was the delta variant as it was sweeping its wave across ga during this time. Since kicking it’s ***, with the lords help. I buttoned up the bottom end and got the heads back from the machine shop today. I decided to use Scott’s in Fayetteville ga and I thought he was fair and straight up with me. $437 set up ready to bolt on. I was lucky in that guides where good and it didn’t need a valve job. I had lapped them in prior. He machined the spring perch down for the dual springs, verified install height, viton seals, and resurface the head just enough to clean them up. I had previously cleaned the bowls up and gasket matched the intake runners. Im hoping they are up to the task on this motor. Oh and the vinegar trick worked to good it destroyed my 484 cam. I did white vinegar 50/50 for 24hrs. it eat the machined finish right off and left all the lobes pitted. I was disappointed I really like that cam. I instead installed a mother thumper which I got the whole kit new for a deal. Not preferred but it will sound nasty. I’m not going for practicality with this one it’s a tunnel ram so it will be ridiculous regardless.

A81958BD-24E2-45AB-B02F-6DDE5706405C.png
D1F1D400-AA55-41F7-9B39-6A6AF2FB4233.jpeg
64BE8A98-DA33-4D4E-8E0B-AC87D760CF9D.jpeg
0C5D2C12-F2D1-4988-AD28-9BF60EEEDC5D.jpeg
6407B2D3-CF14-4DCD-8C1C-7E4C7F8FAA5A.jpeg
65FFCE78-D163-43E3-B34A-4161DE3D8CCF.jpeg
 
-
Back
Top