Fork Rod Grinding On Starter

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PcWilliams

PcWilliams

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Hi All.

I have a 72 Duster, 340, 4-spd.

When I depress the clutch, the fork rod grinds hard against the starter motor. It's so bad that the spring washer connecting the fork rod is now totally shredded and gets caught on the side of the starter - preventing the clutch pedal from returning.

The car has Doug's Headers and a mini starter.

There's literally about 1/2" between the header pipe and the starter motor.

Has anybody else dealt with this problem with these headers (Doug's)?

I'll get pictures and post them.

Thanks,

Paul
 
You have to either modify the Z-Bar or buy a TTI Z-Bar otherwise you will have this issue. Check the thread below, it has the modification directions. This is mandatory for Doug's or TTI long tube headers.

Modified Z-bar for Doug's Headers (pic)

Or buy this. The first picture in the link is the B-Body one, the second picture is correct.

TTI A Engine Z-Bar

I have Doug's headers and the TTI Z Bar. They cleared both my A833 and now my TKO. Its tight, a later 80's, early 90'd Magnum based mini starter helps.
 
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Although it wasn't bad enough to cause the pedal not to return, I had a similar issue, but it did slow its return down.

When I installed my Dougs headers, I modified my own z bar and just assumed I got a measurement wrong (As dano mentioned, it's a tight fit regardless). I bent the arm a bit and things seemed to straighten out (I think my starter housing self clearance itself a bit as well).

I will try to get a picture loaded sometime later today if you want to compare notes.
 
Had to bend up the z bar similar to the tti modified z bar for my 70 duster with dougs headers. Still A very tight squeeze between the starter and the clutch fork rod. I also ended up using an e-clip rather then the bulkier original spring clip.
 
I did have to file on the casting of my starter to get the arm that holds the adjusting rod to swing back more.
 
dano said:
You have to either modify the Z-Bar or buy a TTI Z-Bar otherwise you will have this issue. Check the thread below, it has the modification directions. This is mandatory for Doug's or TTI long tube headers.

Modified Z-bar for Doug's Headers (pic)

Or buy this. The first picture in the link is the B-Body one, the second picture is correct.

TTI A Engine Z-Bar

I have Doug's headers and the TTI Z Bar. They cleared both my A833 and now my TKO. Its tight, a later 80's, early 90'd Magnum based mini starter helps.
Click to expand...

Boy, this is great news. I was thinking I might have to buy different headers at great expense.

My starter is a mini starter but I don't know the make. Do you have a recommended mini starter?

Thank you for the help. Greatly appreciated.

Paul
 
My starter's a FOOT away from the clutch fork. Oh wait, I have a slant six. Oh happy day.
 
PcWilliams said:
Boy, this is great news. I was thinking I might have to buy different headers at great expense.

My starter is a mini starter but I don't know the make. Do you have a recommended mini starter?

Thank you for the help. Greatly appreciated.

Paul
Click to expand...

Most including myself just use one from a Dakota, Ram truck to Van. Smaller, lighter and cheap. Mine came from a Van in a junk yard.

I do suggest buying all new bushings if you have not yet. There really can be no deflection or movement in the Z Bar.

I will add if you have a Diaphragm clutch with the overcenter spring removed the pedal will not return flush with the brake pedal. There is too much factory built in slop for it to happen without some sort of assist
 
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I'm at the Mancini page looking at the TTI z-bars (TTI A Engine Z-Bar).

They have two picture of two z-bars that appear to have the same part number. Does anybody know which one is the right one for my situation? Are they both the same?

Untitled01.jpg
 
There is a lot more going on here than just the z bar. Is the z bar parallel or level to the ground? Do we know if he had the 12 1/2" fork or 10 7/8" fork? Stock bellhousing?
I have an old Lakewood scattershield, am using the 12 1/2" fork and stock z bar with tti headers. With a 10 7/8" fork and pivot, the tti z bar would work. I did have to modify the pivot bracket at the bellhousing for both. I tried both forks and pivots trying to make my diaphragm clutch happy. I ended up with the correct 12 1/2" fork, that is what Brewer called for. Seems like each car has it's own personality. The lever sometimes needs a little twist one way or another. Are the motor mounts and trans mount in good condition? In the end, a little bit here and there turns into a problem.
 
Not had time to get good pictures, but here is one from the top down. The z bar kind of blends in with the background, but if you zoom in you can get an idea of how a "modified" z bar fits between the starter and headers.
20210527_115714.jpg
 
Your z bar has already been modified. The adj rod is on the wrong side, so that lever was turned around to try and make it work.
I would can those headers. Something is odd with them.
When I got my car, it was all mismatched swap meet parts, it took awhile to get my head around that. From the angle of your adj rod, I believe that you do have the 12 1/2" fork. Just guessing here, tti headers and a stock z bar may be your answer. I know, about $1,000. or so in parts, but what you have isn't working well. Find someone else's car with tti's to look at in person?
 
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We modified a Z bar to look similar to the one on the left of post #10. We installed the D453 headers & planned our moves from there. I'm almost positive the car we were working on had been wrecked in it's past life. Whoever repaired it did a good job of hiding any damage.
 
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