Problems after suspension rebuild

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GSXcite

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I recently replaced upper A arm bushings, lower control bushings, upper and lower ball joints, and strut rod bushings. I had the car aligned at a shop, and now I have vibration at highway speed, and creaking noise when hitting bumps. I suspect the lower control arm and upper A arms were tightened down without being at ride height. Can I fix this by jacking the car up, put it on stands on the frame and let the suspension sag, back off the torsion bars, loosen the LCA nut, upper A arm nuts and strut rod. Place jacks under the LCA and adjust the torsion bars back to where they were, then tighten everything back up?
 
That is a difficult question. If done re-alignment for sure!

I do my own alignments at home and very carefully. Tightening the lower pivot stud nuts before height adjust is a no-no in my opinion when installing new bushings. The uppers should not matter other than un-loading while adjusting Caster/Camber JMO!
 
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Also, did you use factory type rubber or Poly?
 
Vibration is probably a wheel/tire. Possible you lost an inner balance weight that hit the upper control arm end and fell off. If you have the same size wheels/tires front and back swap them front to back and see if the vibration goes away.
 
Vibration is probably a wheel/tire. Possible you lost an inner balance weight that hit the upper control arm end and fell off. If you have the same size wheels/tires front and back swap them front to back and see if the vibration goes away.
I had the tires balanced, and turned the drums. Same issue.
 
What alignment specs were used? Was any driveline work done at the same time?

The vibration is unlikely to be the suspension components, much more likely that it’s a wheel, tire, bearing, or driveline issue.

The creaking could definitely be a bushing. If the suspension was tightened while hanging instead of at ride you may have torn a lower control arm bushing. If the bushing is already torn then loosening and re-tightening at ride height won’t change anything. And if the creaking is a bushing, it’s most likely already torn. But even in that case, the bushing is unlikely to cause a steady speed vibration. The steering or handling might feel wonky, the creaking would make sense, etc. But a vibration at a constant highway speed is unlikely.
 
What alignment specs were used? Was any driveline work done at the same time?

The vibration is unlikely to be the suspension components, much more likely that it’s a wheel, tire, bearing, or driveline issue.

The creaking could definitely be a bushing. If the suspension was tightened while hanging instead of at ride you may have torn a lower control arm bushing. If the bushing is already torn then loosening and re-tightening at ride height won’t change anything. And if the creaking is a bushing, it’s most likely already torn. But even in that case, the bushing is unlikely to cause a steady speed vibration. The steering or handling might feel wonky, the creaking would make sense, etc. But a vibration at a constant highway speed is unlikely.
I guess I'll try it and see. If it doesn't correct it I will tear it apart and check for a torn bushing. I did rebuild the driveshaft and installed new spider gears in the differential, but the problem occurred before and after that work. Do I have the process that I outlined in my original post correct?
 
I guess I'll try it and see. If it doesn't correct it I will tear it apart and check for a torn bushing. I did rebuild the driveshaft and installed new spider gears in the differential, but the problem occurred before and after that work. Do I have the process that I outlined in my original post correct?

Basically yes, but really it's even easier than that. All that has to happen is that you loosen the LCA pivot shaft nuts and UCA camber bolt nuts and then tighten them again at ride height. So you could do all of that with the car sitting on the ground, just loosen the LCA nuts, loosen the camber bolt nuts, jounce the suspension to make sure everything is freed up and then retighten the LCA pivot nuts and UCA camber bolts.

The problem with that is if you loosen the UCA bolts you run the risk of needing to have the alignment redone.

And of course, if the bushings are already damaged it won’t do anything to fix that.
 
Basically yes, but really it's even easier than that. All that has to happen is that you loosen the LCA pivot shaft nuts and UCA camber bolt nuts and then tighten them again at ride height. So you could do all of that with the car sitting on the ground, just loosen the LCA nuts, loosen the camber bolt nuts, jounce the suspension to make sure everything is freed up and then retighten the LCA pivot nuts and UCA camber bolts.

The problem with that is if you loosen the UCA bolts you run the risk of needing to have the alignment redone.

And of course, if the bushings are already damaged it won’t do anything to fix that.
Thanks, I'll try that. Even though the shop that did the alignment charged me $200, I will have it redone. Hope the LCA bushings are OK.I appreciate your reply.
 
Thanks, I'll try that. Even though the shop that did the alignment charged me $200, I will have it redone. Hope the LCA bushings are OK.I appreciate your reply.

$200 for an alignment?!!

That’s highway robbery. Did they give you the specs they used?

If you make an indicator mark on the UCA bolts you can probably avoid having another alignment done, just mark their position before you loosen them. If they don’t move you should be fine. If they do and you return them to the indicator mark you should be fine too. Obviously if you end up with any new symptoms after that you’d need the alignment checked.
 
$200 for an alignment?!!

That’s highway robbery. Did they give you the specs they used?

If you make an indicator mark on the UCA bolts you can probably avoid having another alignment done, just mark their position before you loosen them. If they don’t move you should be fine. If they do and you return them to the indicator mark you should be fine too. Obviously if you end up with any new symptoms after that you’d need the alignment checked.
Marking them was what I was going to do. The only thing I didn't replace was the tie rod ends, so I went ahead and ordered them and new sleeves. I don't know what spec. They used for the alignment, but the car drove straight and didn't pull, but I did think $200 was excessive. I wish I knew of a good shop here in Kansas City that knew Mopars. Everything I have shops do. I have had to redo. I love working on my car, but I'm a Vietnam vet suffering from pain and numbness Associated with agent orange, and it's getting very difficult for me to work under the car on the floor, plus I'm an old fart. I truly appreciate you input, thanks.
 
Marking them was what I was going to do. The only thing I didn't replace was the tie rod ends, so I went ahead and ordered them and new sleeves. I don't know what spec. They used for the alignment, but the car drove straight and didn't pull, but I did think $200 was excessive. I wish I knew of a good shop here in Kansas City that knew Mopars. Everything I have shops do. I have had to redo. I love working on my car, but I'm a Vietnam vet suffering from pain and numbness Associated with agent orange, and it's getting very difficult for me to work under the car on the floor, plus I'm an old fart. I truly appreciate you input, thanks.

No worries, happy to help if I can.

Stuff like that is why I do all my own work. I even bought alignment gear so I can do my own alignments, I had a similar issue finding a shop that had any idea what they were doing on an old Mopar and then was also willing to use non-factory specs because at most shops the computers are all loaded with factory specs which are for bias ply tires and are incorrect if you're running radials. The skosh chart is really where they should start, the factory specs are terrible for radials. The "typ. perf. street" is pretty much where everything with factory components should start IMO, maybe even more + caster if it's possible.

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I just have to remind myself that I'm very fortunate that I still have the ability to do all that myself, I honestly don't know what I'd do if I had to start taking all of my cars to a shop. I'd probably have to stop daily driving them and sell all but one or two. Thanks for the perspective, hopefully you can get this sorted and enjoy your car!
 
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