Highest flowing CFM electric fan that ACTUALLY fits?

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MrJLR

Built, not bought
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There's nothing as annoying as constantly watching the temperature gauge....
Add to that I'm adding a lot more horsepower and air conditioning and I'm gonna need more air flow.

I tried the big Ford 2 speed fan that a lot here use, but no matter how much I offset it to the side I could not get it to clear the water pump.

So, what is the highest CFM flowing electric fan that ACTUALLY fits?

Spare no cost...lol
Thanks

Jeff
 
There's nothing as annoying as constantly watching the temperature gauge....
Add to that I'm adding a lot more horsepower and air conditioning and I'm gonna need more air flow.

I tried the big Ford 2 speed fan that a lot here use, but no matter how much I offset it to the side I could not get it to clear the water pump.

So, what is the highest CFM flowing electric fan that ACTUALLY fits?

Spare no cost...lol
Thanks

Jeff
Need more info on your current set up?
Does it heat up in traffic or cruz speed?
May not be a fan issue
 
Sorry, this isn't what you asked.... But a new 5 blade clutch fan (like the vicious mopar fan) and a shroud will provide the most reliable cooling offered. It's why for many years when all the little front runners with sowing machine motors had electric fans, the trucks and full size vans had a clutch fan and shroud.
  • Also, when people burden the old wiring with electric fans, electric fuel pumps, and other power drawing sources in which the factory never intended the harness to support, then add a bigger amp alternator.. we get dash fires and bulkhead fires, etc. Just my 2 cents.
 
What are you working with? What radiator do you have?? Mow much room do you have to work with (water pump to radiator)?

What he said. How can we recommend a fan if we don't even know what radiator you have? The core thickness and width will determine what fans are even an option, ie, 22" vs 26" makes a huge difference.

For example, my Ford Contour fans fit great, but that's with a 26" 3-core radiator.
 
I currently have a Champion 22" aluminum radiator and a duel fan set up .the snout of the water pump barely fits in the space between the 2 fans...problem is they don't flow very high CFMs....

It runs 200+ in traffic and or more on the highway.
If I manually turn the fans to full blast (I have an override switch) if does cool down to a nice 185.....
 
I currently have a Champion 22" aluminum radiator and a duel fan set up .the snout of the water pump barely fits in the space between the 2 fans...problem is they don't flow very high CFMs....

It runs 200+ in traffic and or more on the highway.
If I manually turn the fans to full blast (I have an override switch) if does cool down to a nice 185.....
A nice 26" 2 core radiator is how I'd roll with it. Fitment wouldn't be a problem, and I'd rather have a good 2 core radiator (with large cores) then 4 skimpy core rad. Just my 2 cents, now = .04 :D
 
A nice 26" 2 core radiator is how I'd roll with it. Fitment wouldn't be a problem, and I'd rather have a good 2 core radiator (with large cores) then 4 skimpy core rad. Just my 2 cents, now = .04 :D
Will a 26"fit?
I thought only the stock 22" was supposed to fit....

Jeff
 
I currently have a Champion 22" aluminum radiator and a duel fan set up .the snout of the water pump barely fits in the space between the 2 fans...problem is they don't flow very high CFMs....

It runs 200+ in traffic and or more on the highway.
If I manually turn the fans to full blast (I have an override switch) if does cool down to a nice 185.....

That honestly doesn’t sound like you have a fan issue. If the fans can cool it down to 185 on manual control then the fans are fine.

The other thing is that 200* in traffic is fine too. I wouldn’t be worried at all as long as it stays under 220. The original thermostat didn’t even open until 190. My 340 is much happier at 200 than anything else.

If you still feel like it’s running too hot in certain situations but the fans can cool it to 185 it sounds more like an issue with your fan controller.

Will a 26"fit?
I thought only the stock 22" was supposed to fit....

Jeff

26" will fit. I run a Champion 26" 3 row in my Duster. It originally had a 22" radiator. All I did was drill 4 new holes on the radiator support.

The A-bodies that came with 26" radiators from the factory had a wider opening in the radiator support, but you don't need to change that. I didn't. Only the very edges of the 26" core are behind the support, and the fans pull air across the whole core when they're running. And if the fans aren't running, it's not an issue anyway.

The 95-2000 Ford Contour fans will fit a 26" radiator too, they're more than enough cooling. Low speed is like ~3,500 cfm, high speed is ~5,000 cfm. The high speed has only come on a handful of times on my car, mostly when I managed to get stuck out in 110°F weather in traffic.
 
Will a 26"fit?
I thought only the stock 22" was supposed to fit....

Jeff
I'm sure i have 26" radiators in both my Dusters. I would check companies like Cold Case Radiators, and the such for best fitment and quality. Personally, I've not had an issue with Champion radiators. Both my Dusters do not have shrouds and they run nice and cool on the highway.
 
I currently have a Champion 22" aluminum radiator and a duel fan set up .the snout of the water pump barely fits in the space between the 2 fans...problem is they don't flow very high CFMs....

It runs 200+ in traffic and or more on the highway.
If I manually turn the fans to full blast (I have an override switch) if does cool down to a nice 185.....
The shrouded 2 fan set up is restricting airflow when you have the fans turned down, thus running hot at all road speeds.
When you turn the fan speeds up and it cools down to 185* that means that your radiator and pump combo have enough cooling capacity to do the job.
You dont need a new radiator if you can cool it down to 185*
I would overdrive the water pump with a different pulley ratio and add a Hi flow thermostat to take advantage of that capacity and run the fans full tilt all the time.
If you choose a new radiator put in the biggest 2 core you can find. IMO Griffin makes the best USA made radiators, they are great people to work with and know cooling systems very well - no guessing games.
 
The shrouded 2 fan set up is restricting airflow when you have the fans turned down, thus running hot at all road speeds.
When you turn the fan speeds up and it cools down to 185* that means that your radiator and pump combo have enough cooling capacity to do the job.
You dont need a new radiator if you can cool it down to 185*
I would overdrive the water pump with a different pulley ratio and add a Hi flow thermostat to take advantage of that capacity and run the fans full tilt all the time.
If you choose a new radiator put in the biggest 2 core you can find. IMO Griffin makes the best USA made radiators, they are great people to work with and know cooling systems very well - no guessing games.

All of that is totally unnecessary, even by your own reasoning. The current water pump works fine, the radiator works fine, hell even the current fans, when running, work just fine and they allegedly don’t flow that much cfm. If none of that was true the fans wouldn’t be able to knock the temps down to 185* when they’re running.

And really, everything between 200* and 220* F is a perfectly normal operating temperature.

There’s a couple issues that haven’t been addressed. Why aren’t the fans kicking on when the car is getting hotter than the OP wants? That’s a fan controller issue, the fans seem perfectly capable of cooling the car down. The temperatures rising, if they’re doing it on the open road at speed, would indicate an air flow issue. Especially since the fans can cool the car down. But how hot does the car get? Does it really just keep climbing in temperature? Or does it just reach it’s happy medium higher than the OP would like?
 
Spend as much on the shroud as the fan. Get lots of the little floppy flaps, too. No gaps, no corner cutting.
A GOOD shroud will NOT impact at-speed cooling and will dramatically help low speed cooling.
 
All of that is totally unnecessary, even by your own reasoning. The current water pump works fine, the radiator works fine, hell even the current fans, when running, work just fine and they allegedly don’t flow that much cfm. If none of that was true the fans wouldn’t be able to knock the temps down to 185* when they’re running.

And really, everything between 200* and 220* F is a perfectly normal operating temperature.

There’s a couple issues that haven’t been addressed. Why aren’t the fans kicking on when the car is getting hotter than the OP wants? That’s a fan controller issue, the fans seem perfectly capable of cooling the car down. The temperatures rising, if they’re doing it on the open road at speed, would indicate an air flow issue. Especially since the fans can cool the car down. But how hot does the car get? Does it really just keep climbing in temperature? Or does it just reach it’s happy medium higher than the OP would like?
72 dude
I have been set'n up cooling systems for 4 decades
When I promote an idea or concept it is based upon many years of success and failure, not bullshit. I dont take yours or any other comments lightly even if the may be "total unnecessary".
When I offer my opinion to the OP it is just that, my opinion and based upon fact. I am confident that if the OP chooses to follow the these recommendations he or she will be happy with the results.
 
There's nothing as annoying as constantly watching the temperature gauge....
Add to that I'm adding a lot more horsepower and air conditioning and I'm gonna need more air flow.

I tried the big Ford 2 speed fan that a lot here use, but no matter how much I offset it to the side I could not get it to clear the water pump.

So, what is the highest CFM flowing electric fan that ACTUALLY fits?

Spare no cost...lol
Thanks

Jeff
SPAL fans but they put huge currents .
 
Spend as much on the shroud as the fan. Get lots of the little floppy flaps, too. No gaps, no corner cutting.
A GOOD shroud will NOT impact at-speed cooling and will dramatically help low speed cooling.

A good shroud shouldn't need any "little floppy flaps". That's an aftermarket band aid for a poorly designed shroud.

72 dude
I have been set'n up cooling systems for 4 decades
When I promote an idea or concept it is based upon many years of success and failure, not bullshit. I dont take yours or any other comments lightly even if the may be "total unnecessary".
When I offer my opinion to the OP it is just that, my opinion and based upon fact. I am confident that if the OP chooses to follow the these recommendations he or she will be happy with the results.

I fully agree with the first part of what you said, the cooling system has plenty of capacity and the radiator and pump combo are working great. The issue is most likely the airflow when the fans aren't running.

Which is why I was put off by your next recommendations. There's no reason at all to change the pulley ratio, do anything at all to the thermostat, or bother with a different radiator. None of those are causing the problem, a fact demonstrated by the fans being able to cool the car down to 185 when they're running. You said it yourself! The cooling system has plenty of capacity. So why waste money, time and effort messing with it? And running the fans all the time isn't a proper solution either, that's a band aid.

The simple fact is that there are still some things we don't know about the OP's set up and the issues he's having, which is why I'm still trying to get some clarifications to get a better handle on the root of the issue. We honestly don't even know if there IS a real problem, because again, there is nothing wrong with the engine operating between 200° and 220° F if the temperature stops climbing in that range. Now, if it only stops climbing because the OP is manually turning on the fans we know two things - 1- the fan controller is garbage and 2- the shroud is too restrictive.

The shroud thing is why I prefer using OE style electric fans, they were actually designed and tested with those shrouds. Even a great aftermarket electric fan can be undone by one of those cookie sheet style shrouds. There's not enough flow through the shroud and the aerodynamics are terrible (no matter how many floppy flaps it has). Not only that, but the fan CFM rating was not done with a shroud like that, so even a really high rated fan may not be pulling what its advertised at if the shroud is just an afterthought to mount the fan.

That's not bullshit, that's the facts. You pointed most of them out correctly too, so I have no idea why you want to waste the OP's time, money and effort replacing stuff that isn't causing the issue he's having.

Concerned about when I add more power and AC

You've tried the Ford Taurus fan then and it won't fit? How much does it interfere by?

The Taurus fans list at 5.6" deep to the back of the motor, I know that includes some tabs that get cut off but that's still a lot.

A 2006-2011 HHR fan is used a lot now too for 22" radiators, it lists narrower at only 4-1/16" to the back of the motor.
8110174-hhrfan-png.png


A few installs
HHR Fan???
 
All of that is totally unnecessary, even by your own reasoning. The current water pump works fine, the radiator works fine, hell even the current fans, when running, work just fine and they allegedly don’t flow that much cfm. If none of that was true the fans wouldn’t be able to knock the temps down to 185* when they’re running.

And really, everything between 200* and 220* F is a perfectly normal operating temperature.

There’s a couple issues that haven’t been addressed. Why aren’t the fans kicking on when the car is getting hotter than the OP wants? That’s a fan controller issue, the fans seem perfectly capable of cooling the car down. The temperatures rising, if they’re doing it on the open road at speed, would indicate an air flow issue. Especially since the fans can cool the car down. But how hot does the car get? Does it really just keep climbing in temperature? Or does it just reach it’s happy medium higher than the OP would like?

Agree with blu`s temps, mine wont even run right till it gets above 180------------
 
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