What oil/oil filter are you guys running in your stock 340's?

-
I run a 440 6bbl, but I believe my input is valuable.
Oil? Well there are a good number of great choices and way more really bad ones.
If flat tappet lifters, I suggest Valvoline VR-1 which I've used over 7 years. IF you can find one of the lubricant brands like Joe Gibbs, Brad Penn, Kendall, and other well known names that formulate for flat tappet lifters (if that's what any of you have) that is critical. Weight is based on bearing clearance first and foremost, and materials used for rings and bearings, how "used" (worn) the engine may be, and the temperature of the oil. Temperature when cold may be a problem if the weight is too high.
OIL FILTER?
Only ONE choice, IMO:
WIX or one made by WIX, like NAPA Gold.
PERIOD
 
I agree on the Wix. I swapped on a Purolator L14670 when
I first changed the oil after getting the car because it was best could get local on Sunday when 51515 was too big, and will use the Purolator filter up on my lifter break in because it only has 30 miles on it. I went to Advance to buy a new Purolator and found the L14670 on top shelf and went to check out... discontinued and I am not allowed to buy it, it must be destroyed per Purolator/Advance business agreement... uhm... what?? Not sure who’s stupid idea it was but went to Napa and bought the Napa Gold 1068 (Wix), because screw Purolator...
 
I'm curious about the difference between the WIX (the ONLY one I use) and WIX XP, and for those who haven't seen this done, there's a couple of other brands too.
 
I always liked the Baldwin B2 filter. The independent parts store where I bought them closed down though. Wix are great, but were recently bought out, and they are not the same anymore.

For good oils for your classics, look at European spec oil. They haven't declared war on anti-wear additives in most oils like the API has. ACEA A3/B3 and A3/B4 rated oils have lots of anti-wear additives for our flat tappet cams. Also look for Porsche A40 and Mercedes Benz 229.5 specs.
One of these oils is Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. 1000 ppm phosphorus, 1100 ppm zinc, and about $22 for 5 quarts at Wally World. Another, for even less is Quaker State European 5W-40. Not quite as much ZDDP as the Mobil 1, but a good amount of molybdenum. Around $18 for 5 quarts.
 
Ironracer said:
I had a guy tell me that synthetic oil, you only have to change it every 7,000 miles. In my opinion, that's just still just as filthy after 2500 miles
Click to expand...
I went over a 150K with synthetic oil changed around every 7/7.5K. (6 months) with only a oil filter change 3 months in between at 3 months. I just filled the oil filter up, run it a minute or so. Check hours later and top of IF needed. The engine never or burned leaked oil.

ch1ll said:
only as filthy as the quality of filter you use.
Click to expand...
EXACTLY!!!

jimharvard said:
i never thought about the clear plastic fuel filter. i suspect the plastic can degrade and crack and start leaking gas. thanks for the suggestion, i will change that.
Click to expand...
I don’t know why a new ruin was made about a plastic filter. After a while -years- it will crack unless subjected to a lot of heat. The like they clear filter for diagnostic reasons should I need to know...

Otherwise, looking good or not, it gets changed out every spring. It just makes good sense. Cheap as heck too! Why not?!?!

Oil wise, non leaking engines get the synthetic. 5 or 10/30. There all roller engines FWIW.
FT cam engines, Brad Penn 10/30.
Old Leaking/burning oil engines, cheap dyno oil.
 
DustyEd said:
Since it's stock, I would stick with stock specs. Valvoline VR1 30 wt. straight out of the bottle, no additives needed.

P.S. I use WIX #51515 oil filter in my '69 318 and '70 340. It's black.
Click to expand...

And the wix# 51515R is what I use with TTI headers, and 90* filter adapter on my 72 duster. this is a ford filter number btw. Also Green Oil aka Penn Grade oil only.
 
Unless you can prove a failure and or drastic diff in performance... it's all a preference.
 
Last edited:
The only time I have seen a difference is in the oils grade weight and a minor improvement from oil to Synthetic.
 
I use a XIM Filter. Made in the USA
:usflag:

20210529_205256.jpg
 
Scody21 said:
wix#51515R
Click to expand...
I used one of those once, and yes, it is a "Ford part number". I probably will stick with the 51515 without the R because IIRC the R has a more porous filter material. If I'm wrong, corrections are welcome. I also have TTi headers 1⅞" 70 Roadrunner 440 6bbl.
S'cuder said:
For good oils for your classics, look at European spec oil.
Click to expand...
I have never heard of that, is it widely available or mostly online for those who live in CONUS?
 
Biomedtechguy said:
I have never heard of that, is it widely available or mostly online for those who live in CONUS?
Click to expand...

Both. The Mobil is $22.37 on Amazon, $29.79 on Rock Auto.
I saw the Mobil 1 last week at NAPA, and both the Quaker State and Mobil 1 at Walmart. The QS was under $20 for 5 quarts.
The oil I've been using in my stock 340 was recently discontinued, so I started researching a replacement. These two will do fine, and I'm sure there are others. I'm planning to use the QS, because their parent company sends me a check every month to not work. :D
 
yellow rose said:
There is no reason to ever run a single grade oil. It’s not 1955 any more.

Those who advocate against synthetic oils (good synthetic oils, not that **** the “supreme” court says is synthetic) have never actually tested anything.

Synthetics do everything better. Everything. I’m not talking about over the counter Group III base oils, I’m taking about Group IV and V base oils, and most likely a blend of the two.

With a synthetic you can use a different and better additive package, and you can use more of it. It will last longer for that very reason. The base oils don’t “wear out”, the additive package gets used up.

Oil analysis is cheap and effective.

The only drawback to the synthetic is upfront cost.
Click to expand...

This can could have chosen to say anything, but chose to spit only facts. 30 weight oil should only be used as bolt lubricant at best. it's just asking for more engine wear at startup for no benefit at all whatsoever. running an extra thick oil is not much better either, clearances determine the viscosity
here's a great website with actual data for those that are interested
MOTOR OIL ENGINEERING TEST DATA
 
PredaFran said:
here's a great website with actual data for those that are interested
MOTOR OIL ENGINEERING TEST DATA
Click to expand...

Best if this is viewed for entertainment purposes only. Much of it has been discredited by real tribologists, not just someone who plays one on the internet.
I'm not going to get into a pointless argument about this. The information is out there.
 
S'cuder said:
Best if this is viewed for entertainment purposes only. Much of it has been discredited by real tribologists, not just someone who plays one on the internet.
I'm not going to get into a pointless argument about this. The information is out there.
Click to expand...
could you post the information then. id be more than interested in learning about new things
 
PredaFran said:
could you post the information then. id be more than interested in learning about new things
Click to expand...
Sorry. Some of nastiest discussions I've seen concern assertions from this guy's blog.
I appreciate your thirst for knowledge. You won't have much trouble finding more on this.
 
Biomedtechguy said:
I used one of those once, and yes, it is a "Ford part number". I probably will stick with the 51515 without the R because IIRC the R has a more porous filter material. If I'm wrong, corrections are welcome. I also have TTi headers 1⅞" 70 Roadrunner 440 6bbl.

I have never heard of that, is it widely available or mostly online for those who live in CONUS?
Click to expand...
The 51515 flows 7-9 gpm. The 51515R flows 28 gpm.
 
S'cuder said:
Sorry. Some of nastiest discussions I've seen concern assertions from this guy's blog.
I appreciate your thirst for knowledge. You won't have much trouble finding more on this.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the heads up my man
 
S'cuder said:
Best if this is viewed for entertainment purposes only. Much of it has been discredited by real tribologists, not just someone who plays one on the internet.
I'm not going to get into a pointless argument about this. The information is out there.
Click to expand...



Yup. That dude is a clown.
 
Affinia the owner of Wix has been sold to Mann/Hummel of Germany.

I have used Mann filters in the past. They have a production facility in PA or NY.

If approved by feds I dont see any drastic changes in the quality of Wix filters. The Germans look at the long term not at short term profits.

The Germans owned our local foundry for years and made it the largest grey iron foundry in the world.

The next owner, a private equity outfit, made improvements to the machinery and buildings.

Now Hitachi owns it and things are still good.
 
Last edited:
Biomedtechguy said:
I'm curious about the difference between the WIX (the ONLY one I use) and WIX XP, and for those who haven't seen this done, there's a couple of other brands too.
Click to expand...



thank you for posting this video of a guy actually cutting various oil filters apart so everyone could see the differences. these are always THE BEST kind of comparison videos because there is no debate about someone's "opinion" - everyone can see the difference for themselves and just make up their own mind. i agree with the testing guy that the mopar OEM filter is the best design. oddly, i have often found that OEM parts (especially mopar) are often MUCH better made than after-market parts. of course, that is not always true for every part - but i think mopar did exercise some good judgment in the suppliers they chose.
 
I always use the Mopar oil filter and am running 10/30 oil with a zinc additive.
engine1.JPG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top