Dana 60

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Spacegrass

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I found someone selling 2 Dana 60 rear ends, one from a 70’s Ford F350 and the other from a 90’s Ram 2500-3500. Which should I pick up, and how easy will it be to convert from my 7.25 rear end?
 
Though's out of a 1 ton are really thick tubes and are heavy as hell. I got mine out of a 70's B200 and they are a lot lighter and smaller tubes
 
Though's out of a 1 ton are really thick tubes and are heavy as hell. I got mine out of a 70's B200 and they are a lot lighter and smaller tubes

I’m mostly concerned about tube width and general fit.
 
Not sure what you mean width, that can be cut. Diam is about 3.5" if I remember but I know the 1 ton tubes are over 1/2" thick.

Std axle diam is 3"
 
I’ll definitely go with the lighter 70’s one then. I am mostly am just concerned about being able to drop off my current rear axle, put this on, throw on tires. I’m a super newbie to this, and I just want to replace my nearly blown 7.25 as easily as possible on a budget.
 
I’ll definitely go with the lighter 70’s one then. I am mostly am just concerned about being able to drop off my current rear axle, put this on, throw on tires. I’m a super newbie to this, and I just want to replace my nearly blown 7.25 as easily as possible on a budget.
Most of the bigger Dana's have floating axles and 8 bolt wheels. As said, the tubes are huge as are the u bolts. They don't work with your stock hardware. Just because they are Dana's doesn't mean they are the one you need. A 8 1/4 would be fine for you or a 8.8 Ford rear. Those take some modification as well to make work.
 
I’ll definitely go with the lighter 70’s one then. I am mostly am just concerned about being able to drop off my current rear axle, put this on, throw on tires. I’m a super newbie to this, and I just want to replace my nearly blown 7.25 as easily as possible on a budget.
You will have 2500 in that by the time you cut it to fit and build it
 
The Good Doctor is a Strange dealer. Get a Strange with Big Ford ends. More brake kit options with the Torino style housing ends.
Have the perches put on at 1” less than stock perch to perch if you want to fit bigger tires and wheels by doing the Doctor Diff offset spring shackles and hangers. Also, I would suggest searching the forum for the 68-70 B-body rear axle swap to see if you would want to do that B-body width on the Dana.
 
I got an S60 (just a dana 60) by Stange ( from Dr. Diff) set up how I wanted it. Good price...wait for the sale and you can for free shipping. Shipping can be a big part of the expense.
 
I don't know if you thought about the gearing in the Dana's, but my 05 ram has 3.92 gears but it's a 91/4. Dana's usually start at 3.54 and go up from there. Not such a bad cruiser at 3.54.
 
One: make sure it’s a Dana 60.
Two: I’d buy both of them if they are cheap enough.
Three: the big tubes I’ve measured are never over 3.125 and I know @lead69 did some research on this so maybe he will see this and chime in.
Four: cut the ends off and have someone local doing the job. I know guys are in love with the side adjusters but to me it’s a bunch of smoke and mirrors. It isn’t any stronger and it’s not that hard setting up the gear set.
Five: the thick tubes make it all the more rigid.

@lead69 and I both have our D60’s in for narrowing and set up. I’ll be the one running 4.88’s and spool on the street.
 
If u can find a d60 out of an old Ford half ton 67-72 they have the small tubes. The good thing is they have a bigger bearing so u can get 40 spline axles and they also have bigger brakes. Kim
 
If quick and easy is what you want find an 8.75 or 8.25 already set up to fit an A body, unless you have $$$$ to shell out to buy new Dana or Strange stuff from someplace like Dr Diff.
 
This is the setup I went with:

*STOCK DIMS
*3.73/489 CASE CENTER
*NEW POSI- 4 PINION AGGRESSIVE TYPE CLUTCH POWER LOCK
*30 SPL HY TORQ AXLE WITH GREEN BRGS FOR WW BRAKES 2" SCREW IN WHL STUDS
*RECONDITIONED HOUSINGS- BLACK IN COLOR AXLE HOUSING
*140-7144-DR RED WILWOOD REAR DISC BRAKE KIT WITH PARK
*220-8307 BRAIDED FLEX BRAKE LINES
*ALL NEW BRAKE HARD LINES/VENT/HOSE/ TEE
*ALL NEW GRADE 8 HARDWARE
*ALL NEW BEARINGS/SHIMS/SEALS/GASKETS
*1350 HD YOKE W U BOLTS

STRANGE 3" CHROMOLY DRIVE SHAFT PKG 47.75" W 1350 SPICER YOKES, .083 CHRMO TUBE, NEW U JOINTS , HI SPEED BALANCED, NEW SLIP YOKE- FULLY ASSEMBLED READY TO USE
 
One: make sure it’s a Dana 60.
Two: I’d buy both of them if they are cheap enough.
Three: the big tubes I’ve measured are never over 3.125 and I know @lead69 did some research on this so maybe he will see this and chime in.
Four: cut the ends off and have someone local doing the job. I know guys are in love with the side adjusters but to me it’s a bunch of smoke and mirrors. It isn’t any stronger and it’s not that hard setting up the gear set.
Five: the thick tubes make it all the more rigid.

@lead69 and I both have our D60’s in for narrowing and set up. I’ll be the one running 4.88’s and spool on the street.

The more I think about this 9" I have narrowed to go under Vixen, the more I think about a mini spool. I may just stick one in it. ......that didn't sound right.
 
I just converted a truck Dana 60 to passenger car usage. Tubes were 3.125" diameter and 3/8" thick. Cutting off the full floater ends can be done with a cutoff wheel and a steady hand. For welding on the housing ends you need a jig to center the ends and have them square.
For housing ends I opted for the Strange H1147: Mopar Special Housing Ends Accepts 3.150 O.D. Bearing

They use the large Ford bearings (3.150" OD) which are non adjustable tapered roller bearings (for improved side loading capabilities) but retain the Mopar backing plate: Tapered Axle Bearing & Seal For 3.150 Housing Ends 3.150 x 1.562
 
I’ll definitely go with the lighter 70’s one then. I am mostly am just concerned about being able to drop off my current rear axle, put this on, throw on tires. I’m a super newbie to this, and I just want to replace my nearly blown 7.25 as easily as possible on a budget.

aint gonna happen !
 
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