Not getting 12 volts to coil
I'm too tired to read and look up stuff and not make mistakes.
A couple things I can answer now.
Not sure what you mean by J1 at the fuse box. [edit: rereading now I think I understand now, see new post below.] I'll look at the shop manual diagram for e-body.
Generally I've seen
J1 is from the main splice to the ignition switch.
Q2 is out from key switch to junction and then to the fusebox as Q2A.
Q3 is from main splice to fuse box.
The fuses connected to the Q2A wire are only hot when the key is in Accessory or Run.
The fuses connected to the Q3 wire are always hot.
(Wire H1 is also hot at all times. It connects to the horn relay.)
Its fine to clean up the connections at the fusebox.
But nothing there would relate to lower voltage at the battery and/or the regulator than compared to alternator.
I'm too tired to read and look up stuff and not make mistakes.
A couple things I can answer now.
Yes.
Not sure what you mean by J1 at the fuse box. [edit: rereading now I think I understand now, see new post below.] I'll look at the shop manual diagram for e-body.
Generally I've seen
J1 is from the main splice to the ignition switch.
Q2 is out from key switch to junction and then to the fusebox as Q2A.
Q3 is from main splice to fuse box.
The fuses connected to the Q2A wire are only hot when the key is in Accessory or Run.
The fuses connected to the Q3 wire are always hot.
(Wire H1 is also hot at all times. It connects to the horn relay.)
Its fine to clean up the connections at the fusebox.
But nothing there would relate to lower voltage at the battery and/or the regulator than compared to alternator.
