Am I justified in my frustration?

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Damn. I’d cut the housing end off so you’re not pulling on the housing and see what happens. It may be that the bearing is rusted to the housing or something. I can’t imagine the axle being that rusted and married to the differential like that.


‘Course ima guessing and spitballing.

I just wonder.......Lincoln locker and got the end of the axle?
 
Looks like it will take a lot more heat. I've used one of those asphalt/weed burner type propane torches to good effect on frozen suspension parts. Lots of heat, really fast should help crack up the rusted bits. Just a thought, may not be worth the cost if you don't already have one (or have no other use for such a thing) and a propane tank..

If you go for round two, a strap around the tree will help prevent damage to it.

If you cut the end off like Yellow rose suggested, you may be able to at least salvage the third member..
 
Damn...you have bigger balls than I do. No way I’d be anywhere near that chain with it in tension to beat on the axle. If that chain snapped it could whip you into a coffin so fast your head would literally spin right off.
 
Hell no it didn’t come apart. When I saw what it was doing to the tree I called it quits. I gave it enough effort to figure out if the axle is stuck that bad the third member is just as fucked. It’s enough to make me put this in the “Learned my Lesson” pile. What do you think?

My 100 year old shade tree in my front yard is much more valuable than some rusted piece of **** 8-3/4.



Hey guys, I’ve got a good rebuildable core 8-3/4 rearend with a 489 case for sale. $350 takes it.

Backing Plates - $50
Axles - $100
Housing - $200
489 case - $350
Pinion Snubber - $50
Ring and Pinion Gear - $100

See, it’s a great deal. All these parts are good to go and amount to much more separately than the asking price. Just needs bearings and races.

I’m sure you competent mechanics can get this thing roadworthy lickity split.

@4spdragtop
@diymirage
@replicaracer43

Yeah, I understand about the tree. I hate it got damaged. I think it'll be ok though. I sure hope so.
 
I cannot see any way in hell the bearing is rusted bad enough in the housing to cause that....so.....here's my guess. The axle splines have to be super rusted to the side gears. Try several gallons of white vinegar and fill that puppy up and let it sit several days and try it again. If you keep going like you are, it really WILL be a broken POS. As it is now, you might can still make it good. Trust me when I say, vinegar works wonders.
 
I cannot see any way in hell the bearing is rusted bad enough in the housing to cause that....so.....here's my guess. The axle splines have to be super rusted to the side gears. Try several gallons of white vinegar and fill that puppy up and let it sit several days and try it again. If you keep going like you are, it really WILL be a broken POS. As it is now, you might can still make it good. Trust me when I say, vinegar works wonders.

With how fed up I am with it I think I’m done. I’m abandoning the B-body rearend swap for now. This was more fun than I can stand. Just going to move on to another part of the project for now. I slide hammered that ***** for 2 days and my hand is a little sore. My spirits are low. My wallets $300 lighter with nothing to show for it. My faith in my fellow Mopar people is broken. There’s a lot more jerks and crooks in this hobby than good guys.

I may just buy a Sure Grip and 3.23 R/P for the 8-1/4 in the interim.
 
What those other guys said about using vinegar. And let it set for weeks and maybe change the vinegar a few times. And what was said previously about you not having the skills to rebuild that rear end, basing that upon the chain around the tree, without thought given to what the chain will do to the tree bark. That just does not show much pre planning skill.
 
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Backing Plates - $50
Axles - $100
Housing - $200
489 case - $350
Pinion Snubber - $50
Ring and Pinion Gear - $100

i might be interested in the ring and pinion, what ratio is it again?



just shoot me some pics once it is apart, so i can visually inspect it before i buy it










(all kidding aside, i can see how this is frustrating)
after watching you try to take out your back window on your truck with it i may have to change my opinion about the "rebuildable" status of this rear end
 
What those other guys said about using vinegar. And let it set for weeks and maybe change the vinegar a few times. And what was said previously about you not having the skills to rebuild that rear end, basing that upon the chain around the tree, without thought given to what the chain will do to the tree bark. That just does not show much pre planning skill.

Oh my God, I think I’m going on to cry! That one really hurt!
 
i might be interested in the ring and pinion, what ratio is it again?



just shoot me some pics once it is apart, so i can visually inspect it before i buy it

How about this. All I will tell you is it’s pinion is stuck BUT it’s rebuildable. You can visually inspect the outside and see it’s not rusted like a “back east rearend”.

Ignore the videos and just go off my word, okay. ‘I’m a member of the same FABO you are and I’m in reputable club that hosts big Mopar events.’ ‘I work at Pure Pissin’. You can trust me when I say it’s a “good rebuildable core”.

You will have to get it open to inspect it though and I won’t tell you the history that I know and have with it. That stays concealed even though it’s information that might affect your decision.

Also, all the parts individually are soooo valuable. You would be lucky if you bought it.
 
What a fkn pita,
Thankfully nobody got hurt or killed and while it was interesting to watch I don't believe that pulling it apart was ever the avenue to follow. Might I first say that I used to do quite a bit of 4-wheeling out Cali way but one place we used to go to just chill for the day and entertain ourselves was up in Monrovia Canyon down by the reservoir where they allowed four wheelers. Vehicles would get stuck in the muck and when others would try to get them out I've seen more Snapped straps, chains and torn off bumpers than I could count...Very Dangerous! Guy named PTO Dave who was always up there would make a killing getting the stuck out but he did it for a fee.

Honestly, As others have suggested I think the slide hammer is going to be the only way to get it apart....It takes a SHOCK to break apart the seal and get a release...I repair Plastic Injection Molds and some are quite large and it's a very Corrosive environment inside them and coupled with things going south inside sometimes with plastic going everywhere it is a real ***** getting these things apart but what always works is a combination of Penetrant, Heat and Shock. Unfortunately in your case, I think the one thing that would be difficult to apply to the right area is the heat... I did like the Country Boy slide hammer made out of an axle and 3rd member for some real OOOMMMPPPHHH and curious if what you tried was similar.
 
This thread has taken a life of its own! And here I am helping it along.

For the buyer, there’s a learning experience from this, or to put it another way, what would you do differently next time?

Quitting the Mopar world and diving into Ford’s or changing hobbies completely to collecting coins isn’t the answer to either of those questions.

Putting more effort/due diligence into the inspection/purchase will almost certainly prevent this scenario from happening again.

The seller has provided an after the fact discount to numb the embarrassment you feel for not doing a full inspection. Heading back to your stall to sell more parts since there were potential buyers there is your choice. From what I’ve read here, the seller, at no point told you to scram or not look over the part with a fine tooth comb.

As well, glancing at the peeled bark on your shade tree will be a good reminder of what not to do next time.

I’m not sure what else you are hoping to get from this thread? It’s time to move on and do your best to ensure it doesn’t happen again! If you truly want to learn something from this it will not be making the same mistake twice.
 
If you lived near me, I would buy what's left of the diff off of you for your $350 and pull it apart myself.
I love a challenge.
And believe me, it would come apart one way or another even if I had to cut a window in the housing and cut the axle apart at the gear set to pop the third member out.
I had to do that once on a dump truck that had an axle fail in the splines.
It literally welded itself together there........
 
Love how you guys jump on the “That’s dangerous” argument and try to insult me not building rearends when you see this piece of **** rear wont come apart even by pulling it with a 4x4.

All I need to do is get a rearend apart. I send 3rd member to SD Gear and Axle. So what if I don’t build third members. Moot point. I’m not allowed to send a 3rd member to a shop? That's what you're latching onto now to tell me I'm not justified in being frustrated?

You still have to be able to disassemble one to be able to call it rebuildable. The seller says he has no reason to believe the diff is not rebuildable but what's the reason to believe it IS rebuildable. This was a mystery rearend to him but since it's not "rusted like a backeast rearend" ...... Well, my bad for trusting a guy based on his affiliation with a reputable club and a FABO member.

if I had to cut a window in the housing and cut the axle apart at the gear set to pop the third member out.
Would it still be considered rebuildable?

Honestly, As others have suggested I think the slide hammer is going to be the only way to get it apart....curious if what you tried was similar.

I just tried a regular slide hammer that I've used to pull several other 8-3/4 axles, WD40, PB Blaster, MAP gas and a butane torch. All that before I even reached out to Troy. After I told him I tried all that he said he wouldn't help me out multiple times so I started this thread. After it's creation he came to me with the '$100 and shut up!' deal.
 
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Love how you turds jump on the “That’s dangerous” argument and try to insult me not building rearends when you see this piece of **** rear wont come apart even by pulling it with a 4x4.

....

It appears you want to continue grinding your axe. You’re now lashing out calling folks turds who have rightfully said your disassembly method is dangerous. Admit it, it is! Yes it’s also frustrating that even a 4x4 couldn’t pull it apart. That’s true too but don’t discount the safety factor because of frustration.

Is there any solution here that will take away the sweat, effort, embarrassment, used shop supplies and tree damage?
 
If you lived near me, I would buy what's left of the diff off of you for your $350 and pull it apart myself.
I love a challenge.
And believe me, it would come apart one way or another even if I had to cut a window in the housing and cut the axle apart at the gear set to pop the third member out.
I had to do that once on a dump truck that had an axle fail in the splines.
It literally welded itself together there........
Milling in a window to be able to cut the stuck axel at the edge of the third member would be a good way to get it apart. The window would then be welded shut.
 
It appears you want to continue grinding your axe. You’re now lashing out calling folks turds who have rightfully said your disassembly method is dangerous.

I changed it. I apologize for saying that. Just frustrating that people go from saying I haven't tried to disassemble it "hard enough" or whatever and then say "you're doing it wrong" when I have to resort to the furthest option of getting this axle out. Before I even contacted Troy I had tried penetrating fluid, a slide hammer (for days), heat. He didn't believe that I was having a hard time pulling it apart. I trusted him that it was rebuildable but he wouldn't trust me when I said the axle was stuck!

Sure I could cut the end off but that would definitely make it NOT rebuildable.

Is there any solution here that will take away the sweat, effort, embarrassment, used shop supplies and tree damage?
If Troy accepted what I have told him multiple times, that this rearend is not "rebuildable" in the sense that I would have to do damage to it to get it apart. He just doesn't have the authority to say that it is rebuildable.
 
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Love how you guys jump on the “That’s dangerous” argument and try to insult me not building rearends when you see this piece of **** rear wont come apart even by pulling it with a 4x4.

All I need to go is get a rearend apart. I send 3rd member to SD Gear and Axle. So what if I don’t build third members. Moot point. I’m not allowed to send a 3rd member to a shop? That's what you're latching onto now to tell me I'm not justified in being frustrated?

You still have to be able to disassemble one to be able to call it rebuildable. The seller says he has no reason to believe the diff is not rebuildable but what's the reason to believe it IS rebuildable. This was a mystery rearend to him but since it's not "rusted like a backeast rearend" ...... Well, my bad for trusting a guy based on his affiliation with a reputable club and a FABO member.


Would it still be considered rebuildable?

I'm just trying to help you from this point on.
Getting pissed off and continuing to struggle with how in your mind you got screwed over isn't going to resolve what you have to deal with now that it's over.
And it is.
Quit complaining.

There's nothing wrong with getting someone to build a gear set/third member for you.

If you used my method of cutting a window with a cut off wheel in the back of the housing, you could cut the axle shaft close to the third member and pull it out.
Then take the caps off and throw away the gear/bearing assembly as well as the pinion and bearing.
That leaves you with the bare third member ready for cleaning/blasting and rebuild.
(A core)

Then put the housing in a vertical press and push the remainder of the axle out.
And if it doesn't come out that way even with lots of heat on the housing flange area above where the bearing runs, then cut off the axle flange above the bearing area.

If you cut the flange off, then you might as well have it narrowed to A-Body width and make a few bucks on the bare housing.
Weld the saved window back in and dress the welds at the same time.

There's more than 2 ways to skin a cat.......
 
Perhaps let the internals soak in White Vinegar as I believe the axle spline is rusted to the side gear.....

Then use two impact guns at the same time to try and break the bond....

One impact gun on the pinion nut.
One impact gun on your slide hammer adapter.
Alternating from forward to reverse on both guns providing “Rotational Shock” to try and free her up....
 
Perhaps let the internals soak in White Vinegar as I believe the axle spline is rusted to the side gear.....

Then use two impact guns at the same time to try and break the bond....

One impact gun on the pinion nut.
One impact gun on your slide hammer adapter.
Alternating from forward to reverse on both guns providing “Rotational Shock” to try and free her up....
That sounds like an approach I may take.
 
It appears you want to continue grinding your axe. You’re now lashing out calling folks turds who have rightfully said your disassembly method is dangerous. Admit it, it is! Yes it’s also frustrating that even a 4x4 couldn’t pull it apart. That’s true too but don’t discount the safety factor because of frustration.

Is there any solution here that will take away the sweat, effort, embarrassment, used shop supplies and tree damage?

What "other" method would you choose? HOW would you get "all that" in a press and HOW would you set it up? I agree, it's dangerous. SO is getting out of bed in the mornin. But don't "JUST" trash the guy's method while not giving him another idea. I've been thinking off and on about it ever since I saw his videos about a better method. WHAT would a port a power fit against? I can think of no way you could rig it in a press. I've just got nothing, so I'm not gonna bash on what he's doing.

He wasn't thinking about the tree. He was thinking "surely I'll yank on it one good time and it'll be out". It wasn't so he kept trying not realizing the tree was damaged until it was. We all make mistakes. He's doing all he knows to do......and I cant think of anything else. If you cannot, don't bash what he's trying to do.

If that junk was mine, It'd go into the scrap pile, because what he's doing IS dangerous now and crosses the line at what I consider safe for my well being. I could just see that axle flying out of the housing right through the rear window of his truck.
 
I'm just trying to help you from this point on.
Getting pissed off and continuing to struggle with how in your mind you got screwed over isn't going to resolve what you have to deal with now that it's over.
And it is.
Quit complaining.

There's nothing wrong with getting someone to build a gear set/third member for you.

If you used my method of cutting a window with a cut off wheel in the back of the housing, you could cut the axle shaft close to the third member and pull it out.
Then take the caps off and throw away the gear/bearing assembly as well as the pinion and bearing.
That leaves you with the bare third member ready for cleaning/blasting and rebuild.
(A core)

Then put the housing in a vertical press and push the remainder of the axle out.
And if it doesn't come out that way even with lots of heat on the housing flange area above where the bearing runs, then cut off the axle flange above the bearing area.

If you cut the flange off, then you might as well have it narrowed to A-Body width and make a few bucks on the bare housing.
Weld the saved window back in and dress the welds at the same time.

There's more than 2 ways to skin a cat.......
If you understand this concept then that would be the way to go. Metal is just metal. If you can cut it apart you can put it back together. If you're not used to doing this kinda thing it can be a bit scary and intimidating. The only thing I'd do different is I'd use a torch to cut the window. But either one way will work as long as you can handle a torch well.
 
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