Vent tube

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Tony Tomey

Tony Tomey

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So I started to put a socket on my vent tube to find out it’s not going to work. Bahaha call me whatever you want. I certainly didn’t look closer at it. My new one doesn’t look like this plus what happened to the brass block that is usually underneath it? Well I guess I’ll see if the vice grips will get it out.

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The brass block is a brake line junction. That's strange that all it has is just the breather. It must be a replacement. I would gently grab it around that round collar with vise grips and see if it will unscrew. It should. I've also seen some that just pressed in.
 
What is it on?

Could be that it is so stuck the reason it is round is that others before you have done the same thing and rounded it off.
 
RustyRatRod said:
The brass block is a brake line junction. That's strange that all it has is just the breather. It must be a replacement. I would gently grab it around that round collar with vise grips and see if it will unscrew. It should. I've also seen some that just pressed in.
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It just spins around with the vice grips. I do believe it is pressed in?
 
Dana67Dart said:
What is it on?

Could be that it is so stuck the reason it is round is that others before you have done the same thing and rounded it off.
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It’s on an 8 3/4 differential I did look inside the tube and it doesn’t protrude inside. So it must be pressed on.
 
Blind Squirrel said:
Why take it out. Looks usable as is.
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Because I need the brass block and I would rather replace the vent tube and install new parts. This vent tube didn’t quite look like it was going to work out for me. But I’m still not sure how this is original. I wouldn’t think a shop would install something like this? But now I better start measuring this to make sure I did buy an a-body differential?
 
I really like cell phones with cameras and a little extra light inside the tube for one of these photos.

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On both of the 8 3/4 rears I have the hole for the breather was punched in then threaded.

That one does not look the same in any way

PXL_20210608_020952046.jpg
 
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Dana67Dart said:
On both of the 8 3/4 rears I have the hole for the breather was punched in then threaded.

That one does not look the same in any way

View attachment 1715748887
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Whoa, I think I might be in a little bit of trouble because when I get this out I’m not going to have much material to tap down into the tube. Plus I’m not sure if the size of the hole is the same as the one I bought. Since I don’t have a welder. I might try jb weld after I tap it.
 
Post a photo of the step where the ends join to the tubes.

I'm guessing you have a modified "other" 8 3/4
 
The vent tube measures at about 10 something from the center of housing. The ends I’m not positive if they have been redone or not.

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Tony Tomey said:
Whoa, I think I might be in a little bit of trouble because when I get this out I’m not going to have much material to tap down into the tube. Plus I’m not sure if the size of the hole is the same as the one I bought. Since I don’t have a welder. I might try jb weld after I tap it.
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Geez guy. It's not a crisis. Weld a fine thread nut same size as a new screw in vent right over the hole. Over and done. If you cannot weld or don't have a welder, it'll be cheap to take it and get it done. Nothin to it man.
 
Every vehicle should have a rubber hose from body to differential with a brake line junction. This rear has the tabs for the brake lines. I’m I missing something on how they eliminate the junction or did they place it some other spot.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Geez guy. It's not a crisis. Weld a fine thread nut same size as a new screw in vent right over the hole. Over and done. If you cannot weld or don't have a welder, it'll be cheap to take it and get it done. Nothin to it man
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Sure but that would need to be done from inside, otherwise the dist block will not fit.

Tony Tomey said:
Every vehicle should have a rubber hose from body to differential with a brake line junction. This rear has the tabs for the brake lines. I’m I missing something on how they eliminate the junction or did they place it some other spot
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There is a dist block that the left and right hard line attached to then the rubber hose attached to it. The breather screws through it the sandwich it to the housing.
16231245343173473797928881434350.jpg


16231245605488432735247990285417.jpg

Note....

There are two locations on A body 8 3/4s for the breather. Each uses a different rubber hose to the frame.

The one you show looks to be the later model 70ish and up (I don't recall when the location changed)

Tony Tomey said:
The ends I’m not positive if they have been redone or not
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Those ends have definitely been replaced, OEM are not welded on.

The signs look like the housing was from something else and modified to A body size. 52.5 is correct for A body.

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Below is with the tape streight from center to hole, if you measure along the housing it is about 11.5"

Best thing would be to order the later model tube kit and dist block and line everything up to that to see if the hole is even in the right spot.
16231247561421511165336811188957.jpg
 
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Dana67Dart said:
Sure but that would need to be done from inside, otherwise the dist block will not fit.



There is a dist block that the left and right hard line attached to then the rubber hose attached to it. The breather screws through it the sandwich it to the housing.
View attachment 1715748910

View attachment 1715748911
Note....

There are two locations on A body 8 3/4s for the breather. Each uses a different rubber hose to the frame.

The one you show looks to be the later model 73ish and up (I don't recall when the location changed)


Those ends have definitely been replaced, OEM are not welded on.

The signs look like the housing was from something else and modified to A body size. 52.5 seems correct for overall width. There are a few sites that list the widths.

View attachment 1715748912 View attachment 1715748913

Below is with the tape streight from center to hole, if you measure along the housing it is about 11.5"

Best thing would be to order the later model tube kit and dist block and line everything up to that to see if the hole is even in the right spot.
View attachment 1715748914
Click to expand...

Sure it'll fit. Why on EARTH wouldn't it? It'll simply sit the distribution block off the axle tube the length of the nut. What's wrong with that?
 
Dana67Dart said:
It would look like crap and would not prevent it from rotating as the OEM dist block has a curve to match the tube.
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You've lost me on both counts. First, if it's a nice weld, it'll look fine. Secondly they don't rotate. They tighten down. Simply tighten it down in the correct placement so both lines go straight in and it'll work fine. I don't see the issue.
 
RustyRatRod said:
You've lost me on both counts. First, if it's a nice weld, it'll look fine
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This is not really helpfully to Tony but...
If you weld a bung on the outside on the tube the dist block will be the thickness of the bung away from the axle tube. IMHO that would look like crap.

The bottom of the dist block has a shape machined into it to prevent it from rotating on the tube.

block.jpg


Agreeded the breather holds it in place but the machined cutout prevents it from rotating around the breather bolt. I did not design it that way, so engineers smarter then us must have had a good reason to do it, it is only more expensive to manufactur! so why would you want to eliminate it.

BTW Tony....
Here is a threadtgat shows the locations and the years.

[FOR SALE] - 8 3/4 Brass Brake T Fitting & Vent Tube $18 plus shipping "

Looks like it changed in the 70 model year.

Here is a photo of the early and the later one side by side.
DSC04386.JPG


The reason I asked what year car you are working on is at this point you need to do something with your breather. If you are working on a 70 and older you could move the breather to the stock for that year location, that way when you go to buy parts you don't have to rember that you have to order a flex line for a 72 dart vs a 69 dart ( assuming you left the breather in the current location and had a 69 dart) but you get the point.
 
Dana67Dart said:
This is not really helpfully to Tony but...
If you weld a bung on the outside on the tube the dist block will be the thickness of the bung away from the axle tube. IMHO that would look like crap.

The bottom of the dist block has a shape machined into it to prevent it from rotating on the tube.

View attachment 1715749108

Agreeded the breather holds it in place but the machined cutout prevents it from rotating around the breather bolt. I did not design it that way, so engineers smarter then us must have had a good reason to do it, it is only more expensive to manufactur! so why would you want to eliminate it.

BTW Tony....
Here is a threadtgat shows the locations and the years.

[FOR SALE] - 8 3/4 Brass Brake T Fitting & Vent Tube $18 plus shipping "

Looks like it changed in the 70 model year.

Here is a photo of the early and the later one side by side.
View attachment 1715749110

The reason I asked what year car you are working on is at this point you need to do something with your breather. If you are working on a 70 and older you could move the breather to the stock for that year location, that way when you go to buy parts you don't have to rember that you have to order a flex line for a 72 dart vs a 69 dart ( assuming you left the breather in the current location and had a 69 dart) but you get the point.
Click to expand...

He has no threads in the housing. If he can just get by with tapping the housing, great, but if the hols is too big for threads.....what then?
 
RustyRatRod said:
He has no threads in the housing. If he can just get by with tapping the housing, great, but if the hols is too big for threads.....what then
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I agree but he would be better off welding something from the inside OR at least flush to the outside.
 
Tony....is surely is a modified/shortened housing. The way the vent sits now is def no good to you if you want to use it as a distribution block anchor anyway so it’s coming out regardless as you’ve said. Looks like it may have been modified already as it’s appears to be pressed in. This is what I’d do but I’m not sure what you have for welding capability. I’d totally remove that vent. Try to tap that existing hole to the vent thread size. If the hole’s already too large, I’d find a nut that fits the vent thread, drill the hole out to the same size as the outside diameter of the nut, slide the nut into the hole flush at the top and give it a seal weld. Grind that baby flush and install your block and vent tube. you’ve got that housing already broken down. It might take maybe 2 hours.
 
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