Hello guys working with my daughter on her dart this week while I have a couple days. I may try to work on her sending unit if we get some of the other projects done. I grounded the blue wire at the tank while she was watching and the fuel gauge went to full, I take by the info on here that means the gauge is ok and the problem is the sender correct? I also spent a whole night on here reading about the terrible quality of the senders does anyone know if there is a good one being produced or should I just try to repair the one I have ? Thanks guys your input always is appreciated!
Fuel sender
- Thread starter Chub380
- Start date
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First thing to try is run a ground wire from the sender metal tube at the tank to the frame.
See if the guage moves. Originally there should be a ground strap on the sender that straddles the short rubber tube from sender to the long metal tube run on the frame. The ground wire will substitute for it if it is missing.
If still nothing...
Be sure your tank is under 1/2 tank, the lower the better.
Buy a proper sender wrench and pull the one you have.
There is a how to for repairing the sender.
If it does not look like the one in the how to it may have replaced before.
It might be a later model A body but might be repaiable.
Once it is out, you can check it for resistance change when you move the arm, also check the float for being filled with fuel.
See if the guage moves. Originally there should be a ground strap on the sender that straddles the short rubber tube from sender to the long metal tube run on the frame. The ground wire will substitute for it if it is missing.
If still nothing...
Be sure your tank is under 1/2 tank, the lower the better.
Buy a proper sender wrench and pull the one you have.
There is a how to for repairing the sender.
If it does not look like the one in the how to it may have replaced before.
It might be a later model A body but might be repaiable.
Once it is out, you can check it for resistance change when you move the arm, also check the float for being filled with fuel.
That then points to bad sender, but easy and worth a try.
There are 4 failure modes with the actual sender
- The resistance wire is broken
- The sweep is broken, or warn down to nothing and no longer making contact to the resistance board
- The float is full of fuel
- There is a mechanical blockage preventing the float arm from moving
Thanks
Thanks we got a couple other things to do first this week hopefully we get to this the other day when I was driving it I got on some slanted terrain and the gauge registered about a half of a tank till I got home I thought it broke free. Tomorrow we want to change the diff fluid do you know anything about it I posted in the driveline section didn’t get any response trying to figure out how many qts 7/1/4” sure grip and also what fluid someone at work said royal purple with a type of additive in it already I just want to get it right. Thanks for you fast responses
Re-use the sending unit lock ring! The new ones usually leak (thinner). In the rear look up in the factory service manual the capacity and traction fluid additive.
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Agree with Halifaxhops
The replacement locking rings are .060" thick if you're lucky.
Should be .070"-.072"
Detroit Muscel has the good stuff
The replacement locking rings are .060" thick if you're lucky.
Should be .070"-.072"
Detroit Muscel has the good stuff
Thanks I’ll keep the old one where do you get a tool to remove them I always just used a punch on my chevys I think Dana 67 mentioned it
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That works.
eBay, classic ind, year one, Amazon, google
Just be sure it is for the correct vehicsl and years
Mancini Racing Sending Unit Lock Ring Installation Tool
Just be sure it is for the correct vehicsl and years
Mancini Racing Sending Unit Lock Ring Installation Tool
Chevy parts are cheaper (pun intended)
Ok where would you get a tool like you spoke of, where that is it could be handy.
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Removal wrench:
Detroit Muscle has those too.
You gotta ask for it
Detroit Muscle has those too.
You gotta ask for it
Or send your sender to get rebuilt. There are threads here with where to send it. THere is a "Meter Match" thread in the sticky threads for the Fuel and Air System forum.
Special tools are nice to have if you use them often enough to justify the cost. I would have used a fuel sender wrench 4 times since 1980. The proper tools, line wrenches for example, a must have whether we use them often or not. Anyway... A flat end brass drift and small hammer will remove and reinstall the sender lock ring.
I haven't opened a bottle of Fords friction modifier in a loooong time so I dont know if it still smells worse than a dead skunk or not. If it does, dont spill a drop.
I haven't opened a bottle of Fords friction modifier in a loooong time so I dont know if it still smells worse than a dead skunk or not. If it does, dont spill a drop.
on the friction modifier.
Tristarr Radiator repairs senders. Rebuilt Fuel Sending Unit Specialist
If the tool was hundreds of dollars I would agree but it is not and it makes taking the sender on and off a breeze and I am confident that he will be taking it on and off a few times in his repair process.
Thanks
Thanks a lot guys when I get it out I’ll post a pic it’s probably going to be on the next round of work though time is running out. But it went great this week new starter checked front brakes repacked front wheel bearings and adjusted them. Greased u joints changed rear fluid, checked and cleaned rear brakes.
So, this is what I did. I bought a Vans sending unit, knowing it would not function properly, but it kept me on the road while I reconditioned my original. I bought the sock, gasket and float from Mancini and completely cleaned and rebuilt my old unit, opened the sweep chamber and it was full of calcified junk, keeping the sweeper from working. Cleaned it all up, ohm’d it out and boom, done. All while still going to my regular Tuesday night cruise in. Now I have an extra sending unit, and my original is back in place.
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