Never considered any MOPAR with a LA or for that matter any engine they used back then to be limited on space around the WP. Now a slant 6 is a bit more cramped but still workable. The ONLY time I ever pulled a RAD was if the cam was coming out or the engine. But then I always had good tools and good hands. Put a piece of cardboard, plywood or sheet of thick plastic in there, I usually left the fans on the pumps and pulled the assembly and worked on it outside on dis assembly and installed pumps then added parts to re assemble to keep from messing gaskets up. JUST BE SURE TO GET THE RIGHT LONG BOLTS IN THE RIGHT HOLES !!!! I have seen a few engines that had ruined cylinder walls because the longer bolt was installed in the wrong place and tightened till it crushed in. It usually doesn't cause problems with the piston in that hole but it can crack a block letting coolant into the oil pan which is a BAD thing. I know most people know that when a bolt won't turn, stop trying to force it but here, these engines have bolt holes that go into the jackets and they rust making it hard to remove and replace bolts. Chase out the threads and use some sealant, NOT silicone but PTFE, teflon or permatex NON HARDENING thread sealers. NO teflon tape ! The bolts must be sealed to prevent leaks and corrosion inside the threads and inside the aluminum pump housing which can break bolts eventually when you have to replace it. A good practice is to coat the bolt shanks with aluminum anti seize also to help stop them from sticking inside the chain cover and pump.
