340 advice

-
M

moparfanatic56

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2016
Messages
729
Reaction score
186
Location
0quawka, il
I am looking for some advice on a situation that I have. I have the opportunity to buy a 71 dart with a 340 in it. Now here is the issue, the motor was built back in the mid 80's and has (according to the owner appox 50 miles on it). He also claims that it has been 5-10 yrs since it was ran and it has basically been sitting the whole time. I know what my gut is telling me but I thought I would ask anyways. Would the right thing be tear it down and go through it or try to get it running the way it sits and hope for the best. I was able to turn the motor over with a breaker bar and it was free. I was curious if anyone had a similar situation and how they handled it. Any thought or advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Dan
 
One of the most scary words to an auto enthusiast is "rebuilt".
What exactly does that mean ? Who did it ? What parts were used ?
You know what the factory did but.....
 
5-10 year of not being started with 30 year old gaskets.... would pull the valve covers and take a look. Drain the oil and see what comes out... pull the plugs and put a scoop in there. If it all looks ok, fire that bad boy up... if not you know what’s next...
 
First, you need to decide if you want it. Then proceed from there.
 
The piston grooves could be full of trash or rust. I'd take it apart and if nothing else just make sure everything gets cleaned and well lubricated
 
I have resurrected many engines that have sat for years and years with what appeared no ill effects, but it is always a bit of a crap shoot. too many scenarios to go into all the possible problems. but one thing you need to do is make sure that the engine fires quickly and circulates oil quickly cranking on a dry old motor is the recipe for disaster. Fuel tank and carburetor are also problems frequently on cars that have set for a long time. All old fuel and filters must be removed and replaced before starting.
 
K.O. SWINGER said:
I have resurrected many engines that have sat for years and years with what appeared no ill effects, but it is always a bit of a crap shoot. too many scenarios to go into all the possible problems. but one thing you need to do is make sure that the engine fires quickly and circulates oil quickly cranking on a dry old motor is the recipe for disaster. Fuel tank and carburetor are also problems frequently on cars that have set for a long time. All old fuel and filters must be removed and replaced before starting.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input. If I do decide to buy it the first thing I was going to do was pull dizzy and prime the oil system after changing oil and filter, drain the carb, replace the fuel filter and use fresh gas out of a can.
 
If it was a 'teener or even a 360, I'd go for it- but a 340? Especially if it is a factory 340 car... I don't think I'd chance it. 340s are starting to be worth some coin, and I'd feel better tearing it down and verifying everything. At best, it costs your time and a gasket set. At worst, you saved yourself some serious money and repairs.
 
It's always best to tear it down and inspect it if you're really to have the time and the resources to do so. But in most cases and under most conditions motor seal and stay pretty free from contaminants and elements when they're not in use. But on the other hand very few cars are just parked when they're running correctly. And not knowing the past and what really caused the car to be sidelined is another reason to do a thorough inspection.
 
Everyone is making good points. My train of thought has always been if the engine has significant damage you'll be able to tell within a few seconds and if that's the case it's going to have to be tore down and repaired and likely the damage already been done prior. So fire that puppy up just be ready to shut it down if it starts clattering.
 
moparfanatic56 said:
Thanks for the input. If I do decide to buy it the first thing I was going to do was pull dizzy and prime the oil system after changing oil and filter, drain the carb, replace the fuel filter and use fresh gas out of a can.
Click to expand...
Pull the valve covers and make sure you have oil to rockers while you are priming the oil system
Before you pre lube it (good idea) pull the spark plugs its alot easier to turn it over after you lube it.
Look at the plugs good they will tell you alot, if there is rust on the plugs there is most likely rust on the cylinder wall's.
Good Luck
 
OK, here is my $0.02. It sounds like you have not yet purchased it. It also sounds like you have not yet heard it run. Unless you are buying a car from a good friend who you really trust, I have a few 'pricing' rules you might be interested in:
1. If I cannot actually start the engine and hear it run, I assume it needs a complete rebuild and reduce my offer accordingly. It is always a bit touchy to tell someone, "It's not that I don't believe you, but...", but you have to protect yourself.
2. If I cannot put it in gear and feel the transmission work and shift, I assume it needs a complete rebuild, and reduce my offer accordingly. Moving the car around also gives you a chance to assess brakes, rear end, etc.
I have walked away from several deals where the seller was basically saying, "Trust me, everything works fine. The only reason it won't start is....." Now, if you want the car really badly, and are willing to take the risk, that's up to you. I just want to warn you that "It was running great 20 years ago, and it only has 50 miles on it" sounds very fishy.
 
harrisonm said:
OK, here is my $0.02. It sounds like you have not yet purchased it. It also sounds like you have not yet heard it run. Unless you are buying a car from a good friend who you really trust, I have a few 'pricing' rules you might be interested in:
1. If I cannot actually start the engine and hear it run, I assume it needs a complete rebuild and reduce my offer accordingly. It is always a bit touchy to tell someone, "It's not that I don't believe you, but...", but you have to protect yourself.
2. If I cannot put it in gear and feel the transmission work and shift, I assume it needs a complete rebuild, and reduce my offer accordingly. Moving the car around also gives you a chance to assess brakes, rear end, etc.
I have walked away from several deals where the seller was basically saying, "Trust me, everything works fine. The only reason it won't start is....." Now, if you want the car really badly, and are willing to take the risk, that's up to you. I just want to warn you that "It was running great 20 years ago, and it only has 50 miles on it" sounds very fishy.
Click to expand...

Yeah, why wouldn't someone drive a "running great" engine more than 50 miles? Did they die? Go to prison?
 
Post #14!

I do this as well. Even when I’m selling a car. I personally try to price it reasonably. If I’m selling a car, it has to run for any value. If it doesn’t run, it’s basically a parts car. Parts cars are cheap, running cars have a value. I also make a list of what works and doesn’t because I want to be as honest & transparent as possible. It pays off because you don’t look like a snake oil salesman.

If I’m looking at a car…. Exactly! What Harrisonm said. If the car is honestly priced right, I’ll get it. I would proceed with this thought in the back of my head. Ether the seller is a lier/has no idea what he is talking about or he is dumb as a box of rocks. Ether way, greed could be the real factor.

Alwo get under that car and start checking from rails by the steering box, torsion bar rear anchors, etc…..
 
Oil change, prime the pump, and light the candles on that sucker. Commence to doing righteous smokey burnouts!
 
harrisonm said:
OK, here is my $0.02. It sounds like you have not yet purchased it. It also sounds like you have not yet heard it run. Unless you are buying a car from a good friend who you really trust, I have a few 'pricing' rules you might be interested in:
1. If I cannot actually start the engine and hear it run, I assume it needs a complete rebuild and reduce my offer accordingly. It is always a bit touchy to tell someone, "It's not that I don't believe you, but...", but you have to protect yourself.
2. If I cannot put it in gear and feel the transmission work and shift, I assume it needs a complete rebuild, and reduce my offer accordingly. Moving the car around also gives you a chance to assess brakes, rear end, etc.
I have walked away from several deals where the seller was basically saying, "Trust me, everything works fine. The only reason it won't start is....." Now, if you want the car really badly, and are willing to take the risk, that's up to you. I just want to warn you that "It was running great 20 years ago, and it only has 50 miles on it" sounds very fishy.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. These are all the same things that were going through my mind when I was looking at it. I did point out my concerns about it being in a non running condition and sitting for so long and he said the he was positive that it would run with new gas ( red flag to me ). I fully expected that all of the brakes would need to be gone through and the fuel system cleaned but the motor was my main concern.
 
All greats points up there. If it was me I'd pull the plugs put some thin oil in them all, leave the plugs out. Now install a fully charged battery. Next prime the oiling system (remove the dist. install tool and spin with a drill) and make sure you get oil pressure then crank the motor for about 5 seconds. Reinstall the plugs. Either get a very small funnel and fill the carb. thru the vent or just pour a little gas in the carb. Now turn the key and start her up. Immediately look under the vehicle for any leaks and listen for noises.
 
O you have to purchase it first and price as a non runner or close. You might get a deal or not.
 
Got any freinds with a bore scope to look down into the spark plug holes to see if any rust has started forming on the cylinder walls?

Usually 2 cylinders have valves open when sitting, humidity from the air gets in there and starts the rusting. Then that surface rust gets behind the rings and makes a mess out of things when you run it.

Can get small USB cameras for computers and phones that will give you a look like the bore scopes also.

Dry camshaft that is not fully broke in, need to get some lube on that before firing it up.

Pull the oil filter, cut it open and see what is in it.

Pull the pan, then pull one rod cap and one main cap to see that the bearings broke in proper, not being chewd up. Then you can put some good cam lube on the cam when in there too.

It's kind of like Craigslist when buying anything, don't trust anything anyone tells you until you can verify that it is true.

Most people want to turn their pile of parts into money and will tell you anything to make that happen.

Out the door and gone, both your money and whatever it is they are selling.

Buyer Beware . . .
 
Just like women...there is always another one down the road. Don't get stuck on a potential problem. Just buy it and get what you get ( that's what it will be anyway) or walk away.
 
Thanks to all for the advice and info. I decided to walk away, he was asking $8900 for it and if it was able to at least start I would have pulled the trigger. I have one project now and don't need another money pit lol.
Thanks again
Dan
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top