Truck's Gotta Bite !

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318willrun

318willrun

Utube channel 318willrun
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Getting our '80 D150 to hook up. Sorry, we aren't spending money to do this. So, I'm using my "thoughts" to what's needed. Part of my thought is the axle is centered, unlike a A-body. 2nd, with a long bed and a light back end, weight transfer seems difficult. So I'm digging through junk trying to create what I think might help. LOL. Goodness, train wreck i can tell...
  • 4.30's on a spool
  • I have Drag Radials, but they are not on it.
  • very little hp
  • smokes the tires at will.... for now LOL. 31x10.5's at the moment
 
A couple of junk motors strapped down in the bed right over the axle will gain you some traction!
 
pauly said:
A couple of junk motors strapped down in the bed right over the axle will gain you some traction!
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shortbeds hook up better than longbeds . my 92 406 gmc had 1.50 60fts , skimmed the front wheels w/ 410 gears and and 10'' hoosier slicks . wish I still had it , 16.1 mpg , and hi elevens , street driven.
 
I'll try, I'll fail. Then I'll try again. Probably fail again. LOL

:lol:
 
bob mCcarty said:
shortbeds hook up better than longbeds . .
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Yes. Last time I started down this road I had a BB in a short bed that had a lot more power than my old, tired 318. But, the BB was in a short bed D150 and it hooked up very well.
 
318willrun said:
well, I want the truck to work.
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PUT THE SLICKS ON...
pullhair.gif
 
abdywgn said:
put a 35 gallon Ramcharger gas tank in the spare tire location. Is the battery in the bed?
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battery is up front, factory location. Throwing weight in the back or bolting on drag radials will obviously help. But I want the suspension to work. Like my Duster. This is a complete different animal. Horrific weight transfer, and even worse weight distribution.
 
lucky for you, someone dealt with this before

simply follow this recipe (some of the point have been mentioned allread)

pinimg.com%2F736x%2Fc8%2F5d%2Fcd%2Fc85dcd564783a6d3dee2c57d0b9fda7d--little-red-wagon-dragracing.jpg
 
clamp all the forward leaves to the main spring and have one clamp on the leaves after the spring perch...where it would hold all of them together. did I explain that well enough to picture it? BTW, what 8-3/4 housing is in the truck?
 
318willrun said:
battery is up front, factory location. Throwing weight in the back or bolting on drag radials will obviously help. But I want the suspension to work. Like my Duster. This is a complete different animal. Horrific weight transfer, and even worse weight distribution.
Click to expand...
Wouldn't the obvious here be to put the drag slicks on and the battery weight and fuel weight over the rear tires and get all the obvious stuff done and see where you're at?.. then probably going at tubing the wheel wells out so you can flip the leaf spring perch to the bottom and lower the back of the truck?
 
I see what he's saying about using what is there first BEFORE putting that stuff on. Experiment gains experience. If you have the time...
 
abdywgn said:
I see what he's saying about using what is there first BEFORE putting that stuff on. Experiment gains experience. If you have the time...
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I'm just not understanding how one makes it work without putting the parts that are going to be on the car and then accommodating and complimenting them. Quite possibly with the self-proclined low horsepower just putting on the drag slicks would be a tremendous help especially since it has a spooled rear end. It's been my personal experience when I had street tires on my duster it was like driving on an ice skating ring and when I put the drag radials on there was a significant gain in traction..
 
Again a lot of the trucks that I see long beds mostly have tubbed out the rears and significantly lowered the rear of the truck to give it almost a Gasser kind of look but already with the weight semi transferred.. definitely want the front shocks to rise quickly I would think..
 
abdywgn said:
clamp all the forward leaves to the main spring and have one clamp on the leaves after the spring perch...where it would hold all of them together. did I explain that well enough to picture it? BTW, what 8-3/4 housing is in the truck?
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It's a truck 8.75
 
j par said:
I'm just not understanding how one makes it work without putting the parts that are going to be on the car and then accommodating and complimenting them. Quite possibly with the self-proclined low horsepower just putting on the drag slicks would be a tremendous help especially since it has a spooled rear end. It's been my personal experience when I had street tires on my duster it was like driving on an ice skating ring and when I put the drag radials on there was a significant gain in traction..
Click to expand...
A tired, stock 318 is low hp. Shutting that up from spinning is nothing. I kind of work opposite than you, not saying my way is better. But I want the vehicle to work.
 
How about air shocks? I saw a utg video where he used air shocks with different pressures to even out the weight transfer on the rear wheels and get it to hook. Maybe worth a try?
 
dartfreak75 said:
How about air shocks? I saw a utg video where he used air shocks with different pressures to even out the weight transfer on the rear wheels and get it to hook. Maybe worth a try?
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I saw that video. Shocks will play a role for sure, but I'll have it even in the back. I have bad wheel hop, which is terrible for traction. I've challenged myself to start with pieces I have laying around and only buy the absolute minimum. I've been working on it the last two days.... I might have lost my mind completely LOL. But I just envision the truck working and I'm working off of that. Plus, those videos may have entertained a few thousand folks, but I've studied them, studied the black marks, trying to figure out what it needs to hook and keep the rear end from trying to pass the front tires !!! LOL :D :D
 
Today we learned that the axle sits off center by about 4" on the leafs towards the front. My education class continues :)
 
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