Temp sensor size?

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doogievlg

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I got a new gauge pod for my car but the sensor on the temperature gauge is too big. The sensor part below the threaded portion will not even fit in the hole. Am I completely missing something or do I need to get a different gauge? This is on a small block if that matters.
 
You have to get creative mounting the sensor unless you have an aftermarket manifold with an extra hole for the gauge (i.e. Torker has one as an example). Not my car, but here's an example of what I am using. You can buy the risers from Hughes Engines. A member here did a nice job plumbing one into the heater hose outlet, but I can't find a reference pic for the life of me.

IMG_20191222_1910235.jpg
 
I got a new gauge pod for my car but the sensor on the temperature gauge is too big. The sensor part below the threaded portion will not even fit in the hole. Am I completely missing something or do I need to get a different gauge? This is on a small block if that matters.


The temp sensors in the aftermarket gauges are not the same size as the stock temp sensor... You need to drill and tap a hole in the intake manifold for them to fit into....

The aftermarket gauge should come with a bushing to thread into the intake and then put the sensor into... Be careful to make sure that the depth is correct so the temp sensor does not bottom out in the port for the water jacket....



The good side is you can run the aftermarket and stock temp gauges at the same time to see how they correlate....
 
The temp sensors in the aftermarket gauges are not the same size as the stock temp sensor... You need to drill and tap a hole in the intake manifold for them to fit into....

The aftermarket gauge should come with a bushing to thread into the intake and then put the sensor into... Be careful to make sure that the depth is correct so the temp sensor does not bottom out in the port for the water jacket....



The good side is you can run the aftermarket and stock temp gauges at the same time to see how they correlate....

Even on the edlebrock intakes? I have a performer RPM. You would think they would have a place for aftermarket fittings.
 
Even on the edlebrock intakes? I have a performer RPM. You would think they would have a place for aftermarket fittings.


I've always drilled and tapped my own hole for the temp sensors in the intake manifold in the water jacket/port next to the thermostat on the driver's side...
 
I got a new gauge pod for my car but the sensor on the temperature gauge is too big. The sensor part below the threaded portion will not even fit in the hole. Am I completely missing something or do I need to get a different gauge? This is on a small block if that matters.
Is this mechanical gauge or electrical?

Mechanical gauges are a "whole different"

Back in the day, they were "somewhat" standard, and you could buy different sized bushings. The nut and sender with the gauge are proprietary

If this is an electric gauge you MAY be able to find a different sender that will work. Who made this "gauge pod?" Is this some nondescript china, or Autometer or what?
 
Is this mechanical gauge or electrical?

Mechanical gauges are a "whole different"

Back in the day, they were "somewhat" standard, and you could buy different sized bushings. The nut and sender with the gauge are proprietary

If this is an electric gauge you MAY be able to find a different sender that will work. Who made this "gauge pod?" Is this some nondescript china, or Autometer or what?

Bosch gauges. Mechanical.
 
Is this mechanical gauge or electrical?

Mechanical gauges are a "whole different"

Back in the day, they were "somewhat" standard, and you could buy different sized bushings. The nut and sender with the gauge are proprietary

If this is an electric gauge you MAY be able to find a different sender that will work. Who made this "gauge pod?" Is this some nondescript china, or Autometer or what?

I’m looking for a three gauge set with electric for the water but they don’t seem to exist.
 
I’m looking for a three gauge set with electric for the water but they don’t seem to exist.
Summit sells a three gauge panel of their summit brand gauges, silver face and bezel, all electrical. Oil press, water temp, and voltmeter. SUM-G2889 $128.
(Nicer set of two mechanicals and a voltmeter, either 2 1/16 or 2 5/8.....around fifty bucks).
 
Summit sells a three gauge panel of their summit brand gauges, silver face and bezel, all electrical. Oil press, water temp, and voltmeter. SUM-G2889 $128.
(Nicer set of two mechanicals and a voltmeter, either 2 1/16 or 2 5/8.....around fifty bucks).

you are the man! Kinda nervous about an electrical oil pressure gauge.
 
you are the man! Kinda nervous about an electrical oil pressure gauge.
Factory oil gauges/idiot lights are all electrical, but i agree that i trust a mechanical oil pressure gauge more, lots more responsive. I also prefer mechanical water gauges too.
If you use a mechanical oil gauge, just please dont use the plastic lines that come with them. I use a teflon braided line. Not cheap.... but i dont worry about a 20w50 bath inside the car.
 
From an airplane builder's point of view, we used copper or stainless steel tubing. The thing is, you should use a strain relief between the engine and firewall. What is a strain relief? Make a small one or two ring circle like a pigs tail. Your engine is always moving, your firewall isn't. The pigs tail allows flexibility. Copper can split in this region. Friend of mine almost lost his airplane from a fuel primer line burst, it had finally yielded from flexing. The engine had a backfire when starting, caught fire. Luckily, he got the engine started and the fire was distinguished. Found 3 bad copper lines. I have never had an oil line (plastic) burst, on my car, but everything at some point, can fail. Just do it as good as you can.
 
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The LOL was directed at 4spdragtop's post, not yours. Just pullin' his leg.
Oh, i know! I thought his post would appear too.
And i kinda agree with his "dont use this" post. There have probably been millions of miles traveled with plastic lines, and they last for years..... until they dont.
(And i like copper less than plastic!)
 
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Oh, i know! I thought his post would appear too.
And i kinda agree with his "dont use this" post. There have probably been millions of miles traveled with plastic lines, and they last for years..... until they dont.
I have used plastic for years and have never had an issue. When I was a kid, my dad got me a mechanical Stewart Warner heavy equipment oil psi gauge. I plumbed that with loader hydraulic lines and fittings.........Just in case the oil pressure got to 3000psi:rolleyes:
 
Heres my copper to upgrade. Add that onto the "list". Bought it 3-4 years ago lol
Oh, i know! I thought his post would appear too.
And i kinda agree with his "dont use this" post. There have probably been millions of miles traveled with plastic lines, and they last for years..... until they dont.
(And i like copper less than plastic!)

I have used plastic for years and have never had an issue. When I was a kid, my dad got me a mechanical Stewart Warner heavy equipment oil psi gauge. I plumbed that with loader hydraulic lines and fittings.........Just in case the oil pressure got to 3000psi:rolleyes:

20210620_220347.jpg
 
From an airplane builder's point of view, we used copper or stainless steel tubing. The thing is, you should use a strain relief between the engine and firewall. What is a strain relief? Make a small one or two ring circle like a pigs tail. Your engine is always moving, your firewall isn't. The pigs tail allows flexibility. Copper can split in this region. Friend of mine almost lost his airplane from a fuel primer line burst, it had finally yielded from flexing. The engine had a backfire when starting, caught fire. Luckily, he got the engine started and the fire was distinguished. Found 3 bad copper lines. I have never had an oil line (plastic) burst, but everything at some point, can fail. Just do it as good as you can.

I planned on running copper because of track regulations anyway.
 
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