TTI headers

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70dart340

70dart340

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I'm building a 408 stroker with TF heads, and a big Voodoo cam, Solid Roller Cam. Excellent cam for street/strip ap- plications. Has good mid range and excellent uppper RPM, torque and HP. Works well in 346-360 c.i. motors. Needs 3200-3500 RPM stall converter or 4 speed transmission, headers, 10.5:1+ compression ratio or better and 4.10 gearing. Rough idle; Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 279/285; Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 249/255; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .585/.600; LSA/ICL: 110/106; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): 016/016; RPM Range: 3000-7000. I have a set of the TTI 1 5/8 step headers. My question is should I bite the bullet and get a new set of the 1 7/8's headers? If I use my paid for step headers, how much am I leaving for my 70 Swinger? It's a big investment, but may be worth the money. All opinions are welcome. I'm not a thin skinned wussie, so fire away! Paul.
 
70dart340 said:
I'm building a 408 stroker with TF heads, and a big Voodoo cam, Solid Roller Cam. Excellent cam for street/strip ap- plications. Has good mid range and excellent uppper RPM, torque and HP. Works well in 346-360 c.i. motors. Needs 3200-3500 RPM stall converter or 4 speed transmission, headers, 10.5:1+ compression ratio or better and 4.10 gearing. Rough idle; Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 279/285; Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 249/255; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .585/.600; LSA/ICL: 110/106; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): 016/016; RPM Range: 3000-7000. I have a set of the TTI 1 5/8 step headers. My question is should I bite the bullet and get a new set of the 1 7/8's headers? If I use my paid for step headers, how much am I leaving for my 70 Swinger? It's a big investment, but may be worth the money. All opinions are welcome. I'm not a thin skinned wussie, so fire away! Paul.
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Myself , I`d think the perf. advantage would be small , but there .
 
Run what you already have, i'm sure your new engine sounds super scary to you and i am happy for you, but it's really not all that.......keep the step headers that you already have, they are more than adequate for that engine. Not even knowing the rest of the package i;m gonna guess that you will be a mid to maybe on a premium day low 7 second car that may just squeeze out 500 hp on the dyno.
 
Edelbrck vs Trick Flow

This thread might be worth a read to you. I was looking for info on the 19's and came across it. From what I gather, you are wasting the potential of the TF's if you keep the smaller headers on it.
 
It all depends on what R.P.M. you are going to shift at or go through the traps at.
If it's 7,000 then the bigger headers will make a difference with your particular set up, but if it's 5,500 then the smaller tube headers that you have will be just fine.
Honestly, I would buy the bigger ones and just be done with it.
 
70dart340 said:
I'm building a 408 stroker with TF heads, and a big Voodoo cam, Solid Roller Cam. Excellent cam for street/strip ap- plications. Has good mid range and excellent uppper RPM, torque and HP. Works well in 346-360 c.i. motors. Needs 3200-3500 RPM stall converter or 4 speed transmission, headers, 10.5:1+ compression ratio or better and 4.10 gearing. Rough idle; Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 279/285; Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 249/255; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .585/.600; LSA/ICL: 110/106; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): 016/016; RPM Range: 3000-7000. I have a set of the TTI 1 5/8 step headers. My question is should I bite the bullet and get a new set of the 1 7/8's headers? If I use my paid for step headers, how much am I leaving for my 70 Swinger? It's a big investment, but may be worth the money. All opinions are welcome. I'm not a thin skinned wussie, so fire away! Paul.
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YES. The bigger header will beat the pants off the smaller header. If you are going to dyno the engine (you should be) you can test them and see for yourself.

On an engine that was designed for 1.75 headers (I did that because I knew we were going to test headers and I wanted to be as “fair” as possible) was on the dyno with 1.875 header is was an average of 20 better EVERYWHERE and I forget that the gain at peak was. The guy who owned the engine even brought 3 of his buddy’s to “watch” the testing to make sure we didn’t “fudge” the numbers.

Had the moron listened to me, it would have been more like 30 or more better across the entire RPM and the peak numbers would have been up 40 or so. And that was on a Chevy.

I’ve now used a set of TTI’s and never again. They go on easy and fit nice, but they make the car so hard to work on its stupid.

I would also suggest that you step up and buy the Tubular Automotive headers. You can do a search for them and find the catalog on line. No dumb assed step. Slip on collectors like they should be and they say they fit power steering.

My cousin is buying a set for his Pontiac and a couple of guys are buying TA headers for their MoPars. When I switch to W2 heads, I’ll be buying a set.

Check them out. They are about 750 bucks and that’s cheap money for a quality header. BTW, if you do a search here on FABO about TA headers you can find some information on them.
 
Those are VERY good headers.
Actually surprised they haven’t caught in earlier.
I also agree there is power to be obtained on the larger header but it is more of where your getting the power. I myself, just me that is, would not make the change on a strictly street application. Street strip, probably.
 
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Are you racing your car a lot?
On the street you wouldn't notice anything.At the strip you would have
try each.
A long time racer i know said his high hp builds did not always ET best.
 
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I done a back to back Dyno test with a similar motor it was a 416 the 1 7/8 beat the pants off the step headers if you want to see the sheets pm me maybe it might help you some
 
It's going to be a 80/20 street/strip car, kind of like the F.A.S.T. class of cars. I haven't heard of Tubular Automotive headers, I'll definitely give them a look. Ibought my TTI's years ago for this long term build, so I'm sure I can sell them for what I paid for them.. My thanks to all for their experience and advice. I don't have an unlimited budget, but enough to do this right. Buy once, cry once my Grandpa used to say. I plan on shifting about 6500, but that's open for testing. My Voodoo solid roller says it makes max power from 3000-7000 RPM. I have an MSD E-curve with a built in curve and rev limiter. I appreciate everyone's tolerance and knowledge sharing.
 
The first several lines of the post sounds like an advertisement. Is this build done, will be done, might be done. To be absolutely firm on those numbers it must be done. Was it dyno'd ? If so what size headers did the dyno shop use ?
 
This build is being done, I'm not advertising for anyone. I don't know where you got this idea, but you're dead wrong. I have never advertised for anyone. Check my post history, newbie. I've been working on my car since I bought it in 2006. I've saved my money for good parts since then, and now I'm starting to spend some. I'll be happy to post results when my motor is done. It's newer members like you that make me angry. I posted the specs for my build for members with far more experience than you. Please feel free to PM any of the members I communicate with. You have overstepped your bounds, sir.
 
Hardly a newbie sir. I spend most f my time over at FEBO as well as FBBO and many other sites. I have some cars that I have been working on for over 30 years and probably a dozen more in that same time, but what does that prove ? I am older than you. My profession was automotive repair for over 40 years.
Most people don't speak like this normally :
70dart340 said:
Excellent cam for street/strip ap- plications. Has good mid range and excellent upper RPM, torque and HP. Works well in 346-360 c.i. motors. Needs 3200-3500 RPM stall converter or 4 speed transmission, headers, 10.5:1+ compression ratio or better and 4.10 gearing. Rough idle; Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 279/285; Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 249/255; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .585/.600; LSA/ICL: 110/106; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): 016/016; RPM Range: 3000-7000.
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When describing what they are working on. A lot of detail mumbo jumbo. Lift, duration etc... for a header question? Still sounds like someone is reading the spec sheet of some build..
People who think they know more than they do are the ones who amuse me. If you are that smart about the build you are doing why ask what header size you should run. Ask the shop that recommended and is building this combo. I am sure they would know what works best with this combo unless you put this combo together yourself. Sounds like part of the story is missing or something.
Might be your first build.
 
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After working with aircraft and avionics for over 45 years, I had to put my Mopars aside to to build a house, and raise a family. I quoted the cam info for the benefit and review of other members that I've developed a relationship over the years. My questions were directed to those I know, for detailed information that they've helped me with over the years. The devil is in the details. These gentlemen know that, and give me detailed information to help me with my build. I copied the cam specs from the manufactures website, to help positive contributing members review. I don't know what made you jump into this thread, but your contribution isn't positive. If you have something positive to help me, I welcome it.
 
You might learn how to use spell check, too." spec sheat". You're not going to make many friends here.
 
With that build, or any build IMO, because that's how I think, I'd put as big a tube header on it as your budget allows. I don't go along with the thinking that you can have too big of an exhaust. It's just not true, IMO. I'm sure there are those who will argue and that's fine.
 
70dart340 said:
I'm building a 408 stroker with TF heads, and a big Voodoo cam, Solid Roller Cam. Excellent cam for street/strip ap- plications. Has good mid range and excellent uppper RPM, torque and HP. Works well in 346-360 c.i. motors. Needs 3200-3500 RPM stall converter or 4 speed transmission, headers, 10.5:1+ compression ratio or better and 4.10 gearing. Rough idle; Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 279/285; Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 249/255; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .585/.600; LSA/ICL: 110/106; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): 016/016; RPM Range: 3000-7000. I have a set of the TTI 1 5/8 step headers. My question is should I bite the bullet and get a new set of the 1 7/8's headers? If I use my paid for step headers, how much am I leaving for my 70 Swinger? It's a big investment, but may be worth the money. All opinions are welcome. I'm not a thin skinned wussie, so fire away! Paul.
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If you don't have that engine dyno'd and then have a torque converter built specifically for your cars specs and your dyno specs you will end up with a loud sounding turd that isn't even close to performing at potential.
 
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I ran Tubular Auto 2" headers on my W2 73 340 4sp Dart and am currently running 1 7/8 TTI's on my 69 340 4sp Swinger . Both fit well.
 
mbaird said:
I ran Tubular Auto 2" headers on my W2 73 340 4sp Dart and am currently running 1 7/8 TTI's on my 69 340 4sp Swinger . Both fit well.
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I didn’t know TA made a 2 inch header for the W2. It would make me happy if they did, because I’d use that over the 1 7/8 if I had the choice.
 
MoparLeo said:
Hardly a newbie sir. I spend most f my time over at FEBO as well as FBBO and many other sites. I have some cars that I have been working on for over 30 years and probably a dozen more in that same time, but what does that prove ? I am older than you. My profession was automotive repair for over 40 years.
Most people don't speak like this normally :

When describing what they are working on. A lot of detail mumbo jumbo. Lift, duration etc... for a header question? Still sounds like someone is reading the spec sheat of some build..
People who think they know more than they do are the ones who amuse me. If you are that smart about the build you are doing why ask what header size you should run. Ask the shop that recommended and is building this combo. I am sure they would know what works best with this combo unless you put this combo together yourself. Sounds like part of the story is missing or something.
Might be your first build.
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Hey Leo. I appreciate when a guy posts the full specs of importance of there build. It is a ton better than, “I have a kick *** motor, what size header is good to use?”
The more pertinent information available the better the recommendations can be. Let any bickering end here and lets move on.
 
yellow rose said:
I didn’t know TA made a 2 inch header for the W2. It would make me happy if they did, because I’d use that over the 1 7/8 if I had the choice.
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Yes they will make W2 headers! There listed on there page. I do not have a link, sorry.
 
yellow rose said:
I didn’t know TA made a 2 inch header for the W2. It would make me happy if they did, because I’d use that over the 1 7/8 if I had the choice.
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That was 1996.... can't say they atill do .
Herb McCandless turned me onto them and Norris rocker Arms. Nice guy ...
 
MoparLeo said:
The first several lines of the post sounds like an advertisement. Is this build done, will be done, might be done. To be absolutely firm on those numbers it must be done. Was it dyno'd ? If so what size headers did the dyno shop use ?
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You're being the turd in a punch bowl here, LEO. Coming off as a complete dick.

How many times have we read the "experts" say that if you're going to post a question give as much info as possible. I agree and there should be a template. Cubic inches, Cam, convertor, gearing, tire height, .......
The info can be tailored to the specific question but putting more info that necessary might not hurt.
I, in no way, shape, or form got that his post sounds like an advertisement. I think a cam would be one of the factors on header purchase. Do you think a 224/224 duration cam warrants the extra expense of 1-7/8" headers? I don't. But can't trust me, I didn't work in the automotive industry for 40 years and I'm not as old as you are.
To the OP, sorry you got "the business" from a member of "the mean girls club" on here. Thank you for providing the cam specs. After talking with Brian at IMM and doing a ton of reading on my own, with your cam specs and the use of TF 190's, I would definitely go with 1-7/8" headers. 2" headers would be wasting money and adding more of a fitment headache with your head and cam combo.
The TTi step header is more of a replacement header, ie. replacing manifolds. If you are building an engine for serious performance like you are then my expert tells me 1-7/8" all the way. IMM has dynoed a lot of engines and they use 1-7/8'' and recommend them. So, don't trust me. I'm just an enthusiast. I think there is enough consensus here saying go 1-7/8".
 
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