5/16 in line fuel check valve

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512Stroker

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For various reasons I am thinking of adding a 5/16 in line check valve between the fuel tank and the fuel pump. There are a ton of them available online just wondering what others have used that worked.
Thanks in advance
 
If it failed... it probably has some diaphragm stuck in it..
beefuelpumpissue 057.JPG
beefuelpumpissue 058.JPG
 
If you suspect drainage back to the tank, why don't you remove the fuel line at the carb, crank the engine [ ign disabled ] & see how quickly you get fuel.
 
If you suspect drainage back to the tank, why don't you remove the fuel line at the carb, crank the engine [ ign disabled ] & see how quickly you get fuel.
After the car sets for 2 days it takes 12-15 seconds of cranking time to get fuel in the carb which is an Edelbrock. Fuel pump is a mechanical Edelbrock.
 
After the car sets for 2 days it takes 12-15 seconds of cranking time to get fuel in the carb which is an Edelbrock. Fuel pump is a mechanical Edelbrock.
That's most likely simply due to the intake manifold drying out. Remove the top and bet you'll find fuel in the bowls. Also check the accel pump has fuel shooting out.
 
Seems also that the light part of gas evaporates off. Not sure if the fuel has enough weight to migrate back to
the tank.
 
After the car sets for 2 days it takes 12-15 seconds of cranking time to get fuel in the carb which is an Edelbrock. Fuel pump is a mechanical Edelbrock.
Pretty normal with today's puppy pee gas but you may have a problem. Checking for accelerator pump squirt would be my first test. If you have none the carb is empty. Before you crank, disconnect the fuel line somewhere convenient between the pump and the carb. I unhooked the filter because the line doesn't have a barb or a flare there. Connect a rubber hose to it with the other end in a quart jar. Crank the engine a few seconds. If you get fuel right away there is no fuel system issue and the gas didn't "drain back" into the tank. You didn't mention anything about your engine, intake, carb or the like but all combinations can get hot enough to boil the gas out of the carbs after a hot soak. Stock cast iron manifolds are worse. Edelbrock/Carter carbs are worse than Holley's. Holley 4160 carbs (with the fuel tube between the bowls are more susceptible than double pumpers.) Thick base gaskets help. Many have added a electric charge pump near the tank with a momentary pushbutton switch to fill the carb before starting. That works well I have heard.

fuel priming pump.jpg


fuel pump.jpg
 
Pretty normal with today's puppy pee gas but you may have a problem. Checking for accelerator pump squirt would be my first test. If you have none the carb is empty. Before you crank, disconnect the fuel line somewhere convenient between the pump and the carb. I unhooked the filter because the line doesn't have a barb or a flare there. Connect a rubber hose to it with the other end in a quart jar. Crank the engine a few seconds. If you get fuel right away there is no fuel system issue and the gas didn't "drain back" into the tank. You didn't mention anything about your engine, intake, carb or the like but all combinations can get hot enough to boil the gas out of the carbs after a hot soak. Stock cast iron manifolds are worse. Edelbrock/Carter carbs are worse than Holley's. Holley 4160 carbs (with the fuel tube between the bowls are more susceptible than double pumpers.) Thick base gaskets help. Many have added a electric charge pump near the tank with a momentary pushbutton switch to fill the carb before starting. That works well I have heard.

View attachment 1715754248

View attachment 1715754249
My very thoughts
Iron head 340 Edelbrock aluminum intake, pump and carb with thermal base gasket. 93 octane pump fuel no ethanol.
First thing I did was to replace the accelerate pump, when I took the top of the carb it was almost dry no fuel in the pump well.
Just seems like it should not take so much time to pump up fuel, somethings not right.
And yes Mike I agree that our crappy fuel has something to do with it.
As a side note a friend has a 1969 Century boat with a 440 and a very old carter AFB that thing can sit for weeks with crappy old fuel and it will fire up in 2-3 seconds of crank time. Points ignition
 
when I took the top of the carb it was almost dry no fuel in the pump well.
Just seems like it should not take so much time to pump up fuel, somethings not right.

Actually if the bowl is empty, 10- 15 seconds with the engine turning at 60 rpm sounds about right.
I think its odd the bowl is almost empty. Should be at least half full even if all of the light stuff evaporated and escaped out the vent.
 
Actually if the bowl is empty, 10- 15 seconds with the engine turning at 60 rpm sounds about right.
I think its odd the bowl is almost empty. Should be at least half full even if all of the light stuff evaporated and escaped out the vent.
I here ya, the car had sat for a week
 
My 440 SuperBird can sit for 4 months and starts with one tap of the pedal and 2 quick cranks. I haven't touched the carb since I bought the car in '90 nor changed the fuel pump in my ownership. My Bee was the same until the day it wouldn't start last Fall... and the picture of that is above.. and here. Pump I put in probably in '88. I carry a new spare in the trunk of the Bird as I figure it's up next...
beefuelpumpissue 056.JPG
 
Best thing I ever did (before I went with EFI) was 1....rear mount electric pump, which helps prevent fuel boil/ vapor lock, 2....A nice fat insulator under the carb base, and 3....A vapor return system utilizing the popular Wix filter with built in orifice

First time I ever saw a return system.....and they WORKED was on my 70 440-6 RR

70RR.jpg
 
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