Timing Chain Set

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Tims 66 Cuda

Tims 66 Cuda

Mopar mid life crisis
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I bought a Comp Cams kit and the chain set is sloppy as hell. I then ordered a Cloyes set wich I,ve always uesd and it sloppy too. The Comp Cam kit turned out to be a Cloyes set. Does anyone make a tight chain set an more. My go to aint what it used to be. Any help appreciated.

Tim
 
Yes they always seem sloppy to me too even when new. I installed a camshaft tensioner so far so good.
 
Probably your engine block was line bored and causes chain to be looser. I have used cloyes true roller chains always nice and snug. My 360 is a virgin non line honed/bored block. When I took it to machine shop to rebore cylinders they wanted to line hone. I refused! When we tore down block mains were nice and true. Crank spun freely no wear at all. Still went ahead and bought all main and rod bearings new.
 
I’m not sure who makes this for Summit but we bought another one (the first one I bought 4 yrs ago is on my 410 stroker and there was/are no issues) for a 360 we are building and the cam gear is a loose fit on the many cams (so not a cam issue) we tried it on so back it went.
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QuickDart360 said:
Probably your engine block was line bored and causes chain to be looser. I have used cloyes true roller chains always nice and snug. My 360 is a virgin non line honed/bored block. When I took it to machine shop to rebore cylinders they wanted to line hone. I refused! When we tore down block mains were nice and true. Crank spun freely no wear at all. Still went ahead and bought all main and rod bearings new.
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The block was bored .040 but no line bore was done. Seems others are having the same problem and some using a tensioner.

Thanks, Tim
 
I have the Cloyes true roller in my 340 that’s pushing 400HP with 2.02 J heads and have about 20 hours on the motor. For about the last 10 hours I’ve been having nothing but problems with valve train noise and my timing is jumping about 8* at 3k when full advance is kicked in. My MSD pro billit and 6AL have been tested twice by @yellow rose and we’ve had about 6 different timing lights on the motor and all show the same thing. So after talking to @lead69 there only 2 options that he sees are the ones to use and with a tensioner.

The summit and Hughes 6440 or 6442 Here is pics of the items below.

I just ordered the Hughes and call them about using a tensioner and they said to use it with their chains... will be changing mine in the next 2 weeks...







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I thought that there was someone that made slightly oversize sprockets to compensate for center to center variation after a line bore/hone? Or maybe I'm mis-remembering.

Edit to add..

Looks like Rollmaster might do custom sized sprockets to correct for loose chains.
Tech Timing Sets
 
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I've never tried their "true roller" version but their "stock heavy duty" replacement has gone to crap. I've had and returned a few.
Many brands aren't what they used to be.
I've had good luck from the Edelbrock true rollers, I've gone to them since nobody around here seems to stock the clothes true roller version for me to try. But everyone has the Edelbrock ones on the shelf for our engines.
 
I run roll master, iswis chain. Not a fan of tensioners. Mine came apart and the flat spring tried to eat its way out of the cover.
 
Thanks for the responses, I,ll just have to look at the rollmaster or talk to Hughes or Mancini maybe. The block has not been line bored so I,m at a loss. Chit just aint what it used to be. I measured the gears on both of these sets and the #,s are all over the place.

Thanks, Tim
 
i had the same problem with my r3 block sloppy chain erratic timing so we went with a 5 thou shorter chain and now everything is still snappin tight after several thousand miles . timing is rock solid now also .
 
Yup. All of the parts being imported by long standing well known companies who used to have better QC and just simply pride in their products.... Now a days they could give a ****... But don't.
Which is why I am building my most recent engine (which happens to be a /6) slowly, watching places like ebay and buying the parts that have the thickest coating of dust on the packaging.... New parts made 30-40 years ago. Because I hate redo's so much.
Luckily this isn't something I need running "yesterday" so I can get to work
 
Tims 66 Cuda said:
I bought a Comp Cams kit and the chain set is sloppy as hell. I then ordered a Cloyes set wich I,ve always uesd and it sloppy too. The Comp Cam kit turned out to be a Cloyes set. Does anyone make a tight chain set an more. My go to aint what it used to be. Any help appreciated.

Tim
Click to expand...

Tim, it's entirely possible you have an engine that's been line bored......incorrectly. When one is line bored, the correct way is to remove a VERY small cut from the block just enough to knock the dirt off, so that it actually doesn't change the cam and crank center line distance. But as mentioned, you can get shorter chains to make up for it.
 
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Tims 66 Cuda said:
The block was bored .040 but no line bore was done. Seems others are having the same problem and some using a tensioner.

Thanks, Tim
Click to expand...

Are you certain it was not done before? Maybe someone has a high end set they could send you to try before you spend 100 bucks and find out you need a shorter one. I'd send you one in a minute, but I don't have any small block stuff.
 
Thanks Rusty,
Yea I bought the motor from a friend. It came out of a Dodge 200 truck with 70K. I took it down and showed no prior work and very little ridge.

Tim
 
We all know that a roller chain needs a little play in it right? you want to eat up a chain and sprocket set just run it too tight . There is a way to check for proper tension with a tape measure or ruler by pushing in on each side of the chain after it's installed and measuring the amount of slack. I don't remember the measurements but that information is out there somewhere.
 
I think there is a slack check/measurement to see if it's go/no go. It's a measurement of the in out deflection on the slack side, it may be a half inch if memory serves, although that seems lose to me also...
 
Thats what I,m looking at. My brother has one on a 273 and is tight as a banjo string. Thinking about trying it on mine to rule out line bore.

Tim
 
Tims 66 Cuda said:
Thanks Rusty,
Yea I bought the motor from a friend. It came out of a Dodge 200 truck with 70K. I took it down and showed no prior work and very little ridge.

Tim
Click to expand...

Well maybe you just found two crap *** timing sets. There's plenty out there. Here's a tip. Unless you pay "around" or over 100 bucks, you're not gettin a good one. If stable and accurate timing is important to you, the 40 dollar timing set ain't gonna get it done.
 
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