Replacing brake lines

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Brian Arcella

Brian Arcella

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Joined
Jun 22, 2021
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Ok kinda a newbie to the A body world but my son's 60 Dart needs all the brake lines upgraded to stainless steel now I recall seeing an episode of Graveyard carz and the tech was installing brake lines on maybe a B body and he was doing it before the engine was installed. I REALLY don't want to remove the engine so how difficult of a job is it to install the new lines with the motor still in the car?
 
On my 73 duster, I was able to replace all lines except for the steel line that goes across the firewall to the passenger side with everything in place. I decided I would deal with the firewall line if and when I had to. I'm not sure how different a 60 dart would be. My car is a 318 904 with power brakes.
 
1973dust said:
By the way, welcome to the forum. There is a lot of good help on here.
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Thanks I've noticed that its not the typical Facebook kinda BS where a lot of people like to trash talk. the line going across the firewall actually looks pretty accessible I have the engine compartment pretty much stripped with the exception of the engine so you've given me a glimmer of hope..lol
 
Brian Arcella said:
Thanks I've noticed that its not the typical Facebook kinda BS where a lot of people like to trash talk. the line going across the firewall actually looks pretty accessible I have the engine compartment pretty much stripped with the exception of the engine so you've given me a glimmer of hope..lol
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I've done it in a 67 273 Barracuda. Kinda a pain, but not impossible.
 
welcome, we need to see pics of the car. mostly just because we're nosey and like looking at them :)

Brian Arcella said:
...I have the engine compartment pretty much stripped with the exception of the engine so you've given me a glimmer of hope..lol
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worst part might be under the master cylinder next to the exhaust. i'd remove the MC first thing

Brian Arcella said:
Thanks I've noticed that its not the typical Facebook kinda BS where a lot of people like to trash talk.
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i hope you can still type that in a year :lol:
 
On a 1960 dart the lines run across the crossmember so it’s pretty easy to change with the engine in the car.

Why do you need stainless steel? They are hard to bend and are harder to seal. You can bend 3/16” steel brake line by hand, until you get to the ends.
 
thanks
I choose stainless because of the crap weather we have here in NJ and they use a lot of brine and road salt not that its going to see much use in the winter months, I've used stainless lines for year and haven't had any issues. @ kursplat master cylinder is out have a new one sitting in the shop all painted and ready to go, it just looks like a tight squeeze between the header and the proportioning valve
 
It can be done with engine in but its much easier when its out. You should remove the master cylinder first because there are some clips on the firewall the brake line clips into. With the master in place you have to bend the line as you go and its much harder to install.
 
Brian Arcella said:
...master cylinder is out...it just looks like a tight squeeze between the header and the proportioning valve
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you should be able to get them as long as none of the fittings are too frozen, sounds like yours might end up being so though. a small vice grip might be the ticket to break loose the fittings. at worse you may want to unbolt the header
 
What I'm thinking is the distribution block/proportioning valve is original so why not just replace it and not have to be concerned with freeing up rusted lines, it would be my luck the block was bad if I didn't change it
 
Brian Arcella said:
What I'm thinking is the distribution block/proportioning valve is original so why not just replace it and not have to be concerned with freeing up rusted lines, it would be my luck the block was bad if I didn't change it
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100% of the aftermarket proportioning valve are junk...keep your original
 
Brian Arcella said:
What I'm thinking is the distribution block/proportioning valve is original so why not just replace it and not have to be concerned with freeing up rusted lines, it would be my luck the block was bad if I didn't change it
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is it even a prop valve or just a safety switch? factory front disk brakes or drums?
 
I always replace ALL the brake lines on cars when I get them. I rebuild the original proportioning valve. I have never used a repop one but I hear they are not very good quality.
 
Brian Arcella said:
thanks
I choose stainless because of the crap weather we have here in NJ and they use a lot of brine and road salt not that its going to see much use in the winter months, I've used stainless lines for year and haven't had any issues. @ kursplat master cylinder is out have a new one sitting in the shop all painted and ready to go, it just looks like a tight squeeze between the header and the proportioning valve
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nickel copper brakes lines are the **** bend easy and flare easy
 
Brian Arcella said:
What I'm thinking is the distribution block/proportioning valve is original so why not just replace it and not have to be concerned with freeing up rusted lines, it would be my luck the block was bad if I didn't change it
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If it's 4 wheel drum, it's just a junction block. The early ones I've seen are all brass, so, usually not a problem unless the threads are stripped. or the steel mounting bracket is rusted away.
 
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