Any opinions as to wether to use silicon sealer on the water pump gasket or torque to 30 psi with no sealer?
Water Pump Gasket, install with or without silicon sealer
- Thread starter 73Dart340Sport
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No RVT on gaskets. It will cause them to squirm out from under what is being torqued down and cause a leak. Lots of people do it, but it's not the right way. They should be installed dry, or with a small amount of adhesive just to hold them in place. I use #m yellow weatherstrip adhesive with just a few small dots and tap it down with my finger until it's attached good and install. The biggest thing is to make SURE the timing cover surface is clean and flat.
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Thanks. That is what I will do.
Don't forget to put "something" on the bolt threads for the water pump. I use RTV on those. I also coat the shafts of the four long bolts that go through the timing cover into the block as well, because they have a terrible habit of "marrying" to the timing cover over time through the corrosion of steel against aluminum. I coat the threads on all the bolts though, because it seals them and also acts as anti-seize so they will come out the next time. I use RTV because I've seen the Teflon thread sealer dry out over time and leak. RTV will not. That's just how "I" do it. Opinions vary.
I replaced the water pump in a 318.
I used thread sealer and some rtv as rusty mentioned.
The biggest thing I did was put sealer on the gasket and the pump and bolted everything together and LET IT SIT OVERNIGHT!
Not a single leak to date.
https://www.autozone.com/sealants-g...J4vkGIQVIQbq_BGFLzRoCV98QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I used thread sealer and some rtv as rusty mentioned.
The biggest thing I did was put sealer on the gasket and the pump and bolted everything together and LET IT SIT OVERNIGHT!
Not a single leak to date.
https://www.autozone.com/sealants-g...J4vkGIQVIQbq_BGFLzRoCV98QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Used to do a very thin skim coat of ultra black only around the water ports, let it skin on both sides of the gasket and torque, never an issue. Last go around I used high tack instead, no issues. I also use Permatex white thread sealant on bolts, plugs, sending units, nipples etc. No leaks ever. You can make anything work fine if used correctly (that means sparingly and the part installed at the right time)
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Gaskets,as previously stated dont need silicone. A gasket adhesive or "high tack" can be used to hold it in place. The one exception where I use silicone with the gasket is around the water jacket ports in the heads where they meet the intake. This is for added insurance coolant won't leak into the lifter Valley and into the oil...
You have not used a gasket, or gasket sealer?
I use Blue RTV.....no gasket
Hi Rusty. I received my milodon water pump today. As noted in picture it has a paper gasket. Would you recommend using another gasket, or torquing this one down 30ft/lbs? Also, any advice on a thermostat that would be appropriate with this pump?
That's what it's supposed to have. That's what they all are as far as I know. Does it have any deestruckshuns?
No destructions, but have 73 Mopar manual. 30foot/#. Looking at the old gasket, it was paper saturated in RTV. Thanks for your help.
j par
Well-hung Member
I use permatex "The Right Stuff".(black) on everything. Both sides of the gasket the threads 0n the bolts from oil pan to intake manifold from water pump to rear main seal, everything... The 410 strokers been together since 2014.. drag racing and spirited Street driving.. bottom of the engine still White glove clean with never a drip... (Knock on wood...lol)...
It may not be the proper way but that's what's worked for me...
It may not be the proper way but that's what's worked for me...
I would inspect the bolts carefully. 3/8 30 LB FT is good, but you want to make sure the bolts are in good shape. New grade 8 bolts are pretty cheap.
j par
Well-hung Member
I think the only thing I've ever used a torque wrench on the front of the motor was the harmonic balancer nut...
Make a good and tight and don't strip the threads LOL..
Make a good and tight and don't strip the threads LOL..
30 FT LB is good and snug with a 3/8 ratchet. 15 FT LB is good an snug with a 1/4 " ratchet.
j par
Well-hung Member
Or a quarter turn before it strips your brakes...
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Those paper gaskets benefit from a coating of Gasgacinch or similar. I don’t use silicon on gaskets like that.
pishta
I know I'm right....
Grade 8? Man, you want that thing to hold!
Yeah ... why grade 8 ? Is there some beneficial property besides strength ?
Why not? Any time I replace any bolt anywhere on an engine it's grade 8. Even valve cover bolts. Why not? Bolts are cheap and I don't want them to break.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Permatack in a can painted on is what I use, copper rtv for pan corners and sealing bolts into water/oil.
Sometimes dry just soaks and weeps.
I have also used black rtv on both sides of gasket-on cover and pump so you don't get it all over your hands- but it's a very thin flat skin I lay in part to hold it in place working in car.. and they dont leak.
It's a preference you'll live and learn and even realize after preference ...there are apps like porous pitted almost clean surfaces and..well, they make that stuff for a reason.
Sometimes dry just soaks and weeps.
I have also used black rtv on both sides of gasket-on cover and pump so you don't get it all over your hands- but it's a very thin flat skin I lay in part to hold it in place working in car.. and they dont leak.
It's a preference you'll live and learn and even realize after preference ...there are apps like porous pitted almost clean surfaces and..well, they make that stuff for a reason.
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