The vacuum secondaries have nothing to do with this assuming the carbs are otherwise OK. This sounds like ignition, and it sounds like not enough voltage OR A CROSSFIRE condition or maybe rotor/ cap phasing
Get/ make yourself a spark test gap. LISLE makes one that is adjustable I think they are under 10 bucks. "Rig" it to the coil tower with a SOLID core wire and adjust it for about 1/2" Crank the engine USING THE KEY. You should get nice blue snappy sparks "in rhythm"
Trying to determine if spark is hot enough "running" is more difficult. You might try to drum up a friend with an ignition scope.
Measure the coil + voltage "running" Should be somwhere between 8 and 10V "Rev" it a few times to see if it sags. Measure battery voltage running at fast idle with battery/ engine warmed up. Should run at 13.8--14.2 nominal, not below 13.2 and not above 14.7 or so
I don't like throwing money, but consider trying a different coil. Check the ECU is GROUNDED. Remove it, clean the mounting ears, and firewall around bolt holes and remount using star lock washers. Same with voltage regulator
Google "rotor phasing." "It happens." The spark MUST happen when the rotor is at least "corner to corner" in alignment with cap tower contact. The contact point changes with vacuum advance. Two causes of this are reversal of pickup coil wires (even though connectorized/ polarized) and incorrect installation of reluctor. Look at the reluctor. There are two pin slots visible from the top. A B/RB must be installed for CCW rotation
Also I would get a multimeter and check all plug wires for continuity including the coil wire. They should show similar readings "adjusted per foot" if they are a resistive/ radio suppression type wire
