Misfire at cruise, popping/afterfire at 3000RPM

A. Just because the engine runs well at idle in neutral doesn't mean the rest of the timing will be even close to correct.
Setting initial timing works with factory distributor because the amount it advances with increasing rpm has been matched to be correct when the initial is set to spec.


Here's why its critical to plot the timing from as slow as the engine can be run to rpm it appears to stop advancing.

Let's take a look a the initial timing of 1967 Plymouth 440 Hi-Po and how it works with mechanical advance.
The Dodge FSM says initial should be 12.5* BTC at 650 rpm. Look at this with specs for the mechanical advance.
upload_2021-6-30_15-2-12.png

If we had that distributor and measured the timing with increasing rpm we'ld get a plot like this.
upload_2021-6-30_15-6-43.png

But if we accidentally had been given the distributor intended for the '67 440 with Clean Air Package, we'ld get a plot like this.
upload_2021-6-30_15-12-11.png

That's because the advance in that CAP distributor was set up for an engine with inital of 5* BTC at 650 rpm.

upload_2020-8-17_17-43-47-png.png

Since your distributor is an unknown, you'll have to measuring the timing from lowest to higherst rpm you are comfortable doing.

Another approach to setting timing is to set it at a moderately high rpm, and then see where the inital ends up. Even with this method, while it will give better driving performance, it still will be really helpful to know the advance curve.