Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Yeah but do you have your pistons installed "backwards" in the bores?...
uncle tony's garage gets called out by the roadkill guys
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kesteb
Well-Known Member
The Roadkill guys shouldn't contradict the mother ship. Hot Rod was advocating piston reversal back in the '70s as a power advantage.
Plugs are pretty black right now, but all it's done today is sit and idle after I messed with adjusting the secondaries. They looked great shortly after I put them in, but it could be that I went too cold. I may try some RN12s. I've done nothing with the idle circuit and the 14s looked really good when I changed them out.
Even so, it still had the long crank issue with the 14s......but now that everything else is tuned good, that might change with the hotter plugs.
I say too much gas made out of Iowa corn sqeezzeens!?
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Oogliboogli
Try 1 step at a time.
I think you're onto something. Hotter plugs.
Well, like I said before, I ain't got the budget for that. I'd have plugs and jets layin all over everywhere. lol I can do it that way, but it's gonna take more time. I'll get there eventually.
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Oogliboogli
Yeah I went back n edited to say you're on the right track I think,with a hotter plug.. cuz it's got to be hot enough to clean itself
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Oogliboogli
They should call roadkill 'zip tie masters'
And utg should be called 'scumbags storage unit'
Yeah. I think I went too cold. I didn't have RN14s in it either. I had Autolite 65s and they are the same as an RN12, so I put those back in it. I haven't driven it yet, but I believe I'll be about right. Whether or not it cures the hot start issue remains to be seen......I may just be stuck with it until I redo the fuel system. The factory fuel line does wrap slap around the head in the front and I'm sure it gets hot.
I do think the idle circuit is too rich. That could be one reason it takes a bit to start hot. The hotter plugs didn't help, but it won't hurt having them back in either. Which would be better? To change the idle air bleeds on top or the idle restrictors in the metering block?
Oh and I also got it idling about 750-800 without cutting off now. After I closed the secondaries down a little more, that did it.
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Oogliboogli
Let me know when correct heat range plug 1st. When you do..then reset the idle mix by tach and adjust them both the same amount. You'll find as you open it up.. the RPM will increase to a point that it then decreases, thats too rich...go back to that initial increase and stop. Turn it off, count the number of times as you turn them in all the way ..and then reset them both the exact same as the one with the least/leanest/fewest turns.
Check your plugs and starting issue afterward.
Thanks. I'll give it a try tomorrow. I may go out and yank a plug in a minute though. We did drive it to town and back tonight gettin groceries, so they oughtta have a decent read.
I believe the plugs are about right now. This is with about a 25 mile round trip. They weren't new, they have less than 1000 miles. But this was after the trip tonight.
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Oogliboogli
Ah It's used and from the out of tune run time or I'd say hotter.
That's why it's nice to start with a new plug because they won't completely clean a lot of times after a light fouling or 'rich for miles' driving.
Show the tang=timing marks.
That's why it's nice to start with a new plug because they won't completely clean a lot of times after a light fouling or 'rich for miles' driving.
Show the tang=timing marks.
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Oogliboogli
Ring looks wet too. Should be more dull looking at that color and unless its blue from leanness.
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Oogliboogli
flash ruins it. I'll tell you what if you just look at the tang yourself ..you'll see these 2 little fine and faint lines.The one closest to the base ring represents your total timing the one above it is your initial.
Wife Interrupted me is I used talk-to-text.
And a different angle of the dangle.
Well I can fix the flash. Try this one.
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I finally got a decent one. You can see the total timing mark going into the apex and go on up and around the apex and you can barely see a mark on each side of the electrode just on the top side of the apex.
...and I know according to the total mark it probably has a little too much total, but there's nothing I can do about it. I have the FBO limiter in the smallest slot and I'm not backin off initial, because it runs damn good there. It doesn't spark knock even when I lug it at low RPM in high gear so there is where it stays. lol
One was 3 1/4 turns out and the other 2 1/2. So I changed the 3 1/4 to 2 1/2. I had them adjusted according to the vacuum gauge, but we'll see if that makes a difference. I'm thinkin not, but you never know.
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Oogliboogli
Always square them if the carb is worth a ****. Find the middle. Jmo.
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