Vacuum advance

@Mattax
What I mean is this;
at Idle, the engine will easily except 20/25/30/ sometimes even more degrees of timing, with the rpm climbing continuously, indicating that more and more power is being produced.
That's fine and all, but you cannot drive your carburated mechanical advance distributor engine, at those numbers.
At idle; you gotta dial the power back, else the engine will pull hard on the convertor, which becomes very annoying at every stoplight.
But more importantly, when you try to run at bigger Idle-Timing numbers, you have to close the throttle to prevent the idle-speed from getting excessive. This, of course, shuts off the transfer slots. And so you have to compensate for the lost fuel at idle, by enrichening the mixture screws. Ok so then you get it idling ok.
But now, when you put it into gear, it stalls.... because the sudden loss of airflow thru the primaries has lost all it's fuel.
Furthermore, if you are just borderline too far closed on the throttle, and you manage to keep it running when putting it into gear, now you have the dreaded tip-in hesitation. This all happens because the root cause is too much Idle-Timing. I'm talking about 20 degrees or more.
I have, for testing purposes, tuned several manual-trans 360s with big-for street cams to idle and drive on 5* of timing, at 550rpm, in 9.44 starter gear with just enough power to pull on hard, flat, smooth, surfaces... like parking lots.. So I know that, at least , is possible. By 12 to 16, the 360 has more than enough power at idle, to deal with traffic, and mine, with a 750DP, will take WOT almost immediately, the tires bursting into flames. lol. An automatic car with even a stock-stall, should have no problem...... unless the cylinder pressure is seriously low.
But who does that?
Oh wait, I know who does that,lol.