Ignition wiring questions

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PatrioticMopar

PatrioticMopar

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Hey all,

Working on my 1972 Plymouth Duster 318 project car. I needed a new column and have gone with a keyless column. I am going to use a Peerless universal ignition switch and mount it in the dash. I am also installing a remote mount kill switch inline on the start wire.

My question is if anyone can off hand tell me what each color runs on the stock wiring. I know I can eliminate the two small red, cause they are the key buzzer. I don’t know what the orange wire powers. I hope to eliminate anything other than power, ignition, acc, and start. I will post a couple pics for reference. Thanks in advance!

18F59B8C-BB77-43CD-8C0E-C6B0E9044C50.jpeg


9A4E4915-3983-4697-B70C-119792B32ADD.jpeg


F226B6DA-BCA1-42CC-9DC7-34C0C978366B.jpeg
 
Orange is generally lighting. For the back light of the PRNDL I assume. Or even key light!
 
this is for a 71 Dart...should be close
 

Attachments

  • 71DartIgnitionWiring.pdf
    84.7 KB · Views: 192
Your conversion "ain't that simple" That is because Mopar ignition switches are unique.

You REALLY need to get a factory shop manual. You can download them, free, from MyMopar

All cars, Ford, GM, Chrysler of this era, ran a resistor to the coil from the igntion switch. That circuit goes DEAD in "start" so you need "hot battery" to the coil for starting

GM/ FORD did this by means of a separate contact on the starter solenoid

Mopar did this by means of an extra switch contact in the ignition switch

INto the Mopar switch you have main hot battery power usually large red
OUT of the switch you have

ACCESSORY which feeds off to the switched acc buss in the fuse panel, this is hot either in acc or "run"

IGN1 or "ignition run." Many years this is dark blue, feeds (some years) switched power to gauges and warning lamps, and goes out through the bulkhead connector to feed the ignition system, the VR / alternator field, electric choke if used, etc

START--Many years yellow, goes from key out through bulkhead connector to start relay

And the trick one, IGN2 many years brown, the ballast bypass circuit. Again, in "start" IGN1 "run" GOES DEAD. Only "start" and IGN2 are hot---and they are different contacts to prevent loop/ feedback. This wire goes out through the bulkhead to the coil + side of the ballast resistor

HOW TO GET AROUND THIS

You need a source of ignition power in "start" You cannot use the "start" wire directly, but you CAN add a second (like a bosch relay) to the yellow "start" circuit so that the new relay and the start relay key up together. Then run power to the relay, and run the switched contact to the old brown connection.

Another way you could do this is to buy about a 10amp 50PIV or 100PIV rectifier diode and wire it from the yellow start circuit to the old brown circuit. Diodes have a band on one end to denote direction. You want to hook this band so that it is towards the brown going to the coil and not the yellow start circuit

Here is your connector, straight out of the 72 service manual

72IGN.jpg


If you use a diode you want a silicon rectifier diode. What is thought of as "electron flow" goes from left to right. The right side in the drawing goes to the old brown, and the left side in the drawing goes to the yellow on the key

What they are calling "current flow" is NOT how I learned electron theory

diode-current.jpg
 
Last edited:
67Dart273 said:
Your conversion "ain't that simple" That is because Mopar ignition switches are unique.

You REALLY need to get a factory shop manual. You can download them, free, from MyMopar

All cars, Ford, GM, Chrysler of this era, ran a resistor to the coil from the igntion switch. That circuit goes DEAD in "start" so you need "hot battery" to the coil for starting

GM/ FORD did this by means of a separate contact on the starter solenoid

Mopar did this by means of an extra switch contact in the ignition switch

INto the Mopar switch you have main hot battery power usually large red
OUT of the switch you have

ACCESSORY which feeds off to the switched acc buss in the fuse panel, this is hot either in acc or "run"

IGN1 or "ignition run." Many years this is dark blue, feeds (some years) switched power to gauges and warning lamps, and goes out through the bulkhead connector to feed the ignition system, the VR / alternator field, electric choke if used, etc

START--Many years yellow, goes from key out through bulkhead connector to start relay

And the trick one, IGN2 many years brown, the ballast bypass circuit. Again, in "start" IGN1 "run" GOES DEAD. Only "start" and IGN2 are hot---and they are different contacts to prevent loop/ feedback. This wire goes out through the bulkhead to the coil + side of the ballast resistor

HOW TO GET AROUND THIS

You need a source of ignition power in "start" You cannot use the "start" wire directly, but you CAN add a second (like a bosch relay) to the yellow "start" circuit so that the new relay and the start relay key up together. Then run power to the relay, and run the switched contact to the old brown connection.

Another way you could do this is to buy about a 10amp 50PIV or 100PIV rectifier diode and wire it from the yellow start circuit to the old brown circuit. Diodes have a band on one end to denote direction. You want to hook this band so that it is towards the brown going to the coil and not the yellow start circuit

Here is your connector, straight out of the 72 service manual

View attachment 1715759213

If you use a diode you want a silicon rectifier diode. What is thought of as "electron flow" goes from left to right. The right side in the drawing goes to the old brown, and the left side in the drawing goes to the yellow on the key

What they are calling "current flow" is NOT how I learned electron theory

View attachment 1715759214
Click to expand...
Would this change since I have an HEI distributor and jumped the brown and blue together to bypass the resistor?
 
"It depends" What you need to do is mock up the fancy new ignition switch and find out if the ignition feed goes dead during cranking. If it stays hot you are great. Just wire the new feed from the new switch to the old dark blue circuit and bypass the resistor There will not be a brown IGN2 because there will be nowhere for it to come from or go to.
 
67Dart273 said:
"It depends" What you need to do is mock up the fancy new ignition switch and find out if the ignition feed goes dead during cranking. If it stays hot you are great. Just wire the new feed from the new switch to the old dark blue circuit and bypass the resistor There will not be a brown IGN2 because there will be nowhere for it to come from or go to.
Click to expand...
I will do that. You rock, thanks!
 
Always have a fsm. They are extremely helpful. With diagrams. Unless someone else was there before you ....
 
Well she is all wired up and works great. I was able to just use the black, dark blue, red and yellow. I deleted the brown, orange and double red.
Thanks again for the replies :thankyou:

793D728C-B8E0-41AF-8F6D-774E90DC3032.jpeg


3C45757E-6A9E-4F9F-9C1C-A726357FB74C.jpeg
 
Hello. Will this work for a 1974 dart? I have a slant 6. The ignition switch was exploded when I got the car. I’ve tried 3 different switches and the mechanical engagement doesn’t match so they don’t work. I currently have a start button to bypass the ignition switch. That works but spark to start is hit or miss. I want to completely eliminate the ignition switch from the start stop process now. I somehow figured this out before but now I can’t get spark when it cranks. I just replaced the ballast resistor, coil, condenser, and a new module comes tomorrow. Is there a simple way to add an ignition on switch, or should I follow the diode method you’ve described?

67Dart273 said:
Your conversion "ain't that simple" That is because Mopar ignition switches are unique.

You REALLY need to get a factory shop manual. You can download them, free, from MyMopar

All cars, Ford, GM, Chrysler of this era, ran a resistor to the coil from the igntion switch. That circuit goes DEAD in "start" so you need "hot battery" to the coil for starting

GM/ FORD did this by means of a separate contact on the starter solenoid

Mopar did this by means of an extra switch contact in the ignition switch

INto the Mopar switch you have main hot battery power usually large red
OUT of the switch you have

ACCESSORY which feeds off to the switched acc buss in the fuse panel, this is hot either in acc or "run"

IGN1 or "ignition run." Many years this is dark blue, feeds (some years) switched power to gauges and warning lamps, and goes out through the bulkhead connector to feed the ignition system, the VR / alternator field, electric choke if used, etc

START--Many years yellow, goes from key out through bulkhead connector to start relay

And the trick one, IGN2 many years brown, the ballast bypass circuit. Again, in "start" IGN1 "run" GOES DEAD. Only "start" and IGN2 are hot---and they are different contacts to prevent loop/ feedback. This wire goes out through the bulkhead to the coil + side of the ballast resistor

HOW TO GET AROUND THIS

You need a source of ignition power in "start" You cannot use the "start" wire directly, but you CAN add a second (like a bosch relay) to the yellow "start" circuit so that the new relay and the start relay key up together. Then run power to the relay, and run the switched contact to the old brown connection.

Another way you could do this is to buy about a 10amp 50PIV or 100PIV rectifier diode and wire it from the yellow start circuit to the old brown circuit. Diodes have a band on one end to denote direction. You want to hook this band so that it is towards the brown going to the coil and not the yellow start circuit

Here is your connector, straight out of the 72 service manual

View attachment 1715759213

If you use a diode you want a silicon rectifier diode. What is thought of as "electron flow" goes from left to right. The right side in the drawing goes to the old brown, and the left side in the drawing goes to the yellow on the key

What they are calling "current flow" is NOT how I learned electron theory

View attachment 1715759214
Click to expand...
 
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