What Intake gasket

Felpro 1213s..
NO front or rear cork gasket, just a double stack of rtv...

j par said:

Felpro 1213s..
NO front or rear cork gasket, just a double stack of rtv...

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Looked them up and couldn’t really determine if the 1213s are a thicker composite gasket

65 Dartman said:

Looked them up and couldn’t really determine if the 1213s are a thicker composite gasket

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Yes thicker.. look them up on Summit, they should have a thickness.. .60
If it's cast iron to cast iron you can probably get away with just regular felpro gaskets. It should be a flat machine surface. I use a permatex product called The Right stuff.. and black.. they have gray but I use black. It's not cheap.. honestly I use it on absolutely everything and have had great results..
My process for an intake manifold gasket is to make sure both surfaces obviously are clean as you can possibly get them and I even take a little rubbing alcohol, odorless mineral spirits, or even a shot of carb cleaner or brake cleaner on a paper towel and wipe everything the manifold the heads the China walls until they're whisper clean.. I then hang my intake gaskets on coat hanger wires and use a product from Edelbrock called gaskacinch.. don't quote me on the spelling on that.. it's like a rubber cement and a little jar that has the little cotton ball on a stick attached to the lid. First I wiped that where the gaskets are going to go down on the heads.. then I wipe it on both sides of both gaskets is there hanging in the air... Don't be in a rush cuz that stuff wants you to let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes anyways... When I do my double bead of the right stuff on the front and rear China Wall I put a little extra in the corners great where the head meets the block on all four corners. I then take a small smear and smear it around all four of the water ports I even take a small smear and put it on the intake manifold around all four water ports even though the backs are closed. Again that is a very thin smear not any kind of thick coating... I also put a single pass on the intake manifold in the China wall which is the front and the back so the two meet each other...
I lower it down on obviously being very careful to try and hit it directly the first try I put a bolt in the easiest one I can find in the far back and then go kitty corner to the far front. Get all my bolts in loose and then tighten from the center circling my way out to the outside. After I have it tight and then I've ran the car up to temperature and let it cool off I try and tighten it one more time cold...

Brian, pull the two pins, you will not find the most if not all aluminum intakes will not have the holes. Take vise grips twist and pull out, and suggested earlier use RV instead of the the china wall gaskets.

I would set the intake on without gaskets and see how much room you have, then determine what thickness gasket that you have room for. Sealing advice above is good.

Dicer said:

Brian, pull the two pins, you will not find the most if not all aluminum intakes will not have the holes. Take vise grips twist and pull out, and suggested earlier use RV instead of the the china wall gaskets.

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That explains why the engine and engine bay was a greasy mess apparently there is no hole in the 340 cast iron intake so it would bottom out on the pins and not make a proper seal both front and rear as I say the level of butchery continues

Don't think the port size of the gasket will matter that much. I just used metal intake gaskets on the stock 318 I just built, it's all that I had room for, a 1213 would have been too thick. To help setting the intake down, I cut 2 3/8th" bolts down to about an 1" or less, cut a screwdriver slot on one end. Then screw them into the end holes on one head a turn or two. They will be a guide or target when setting your intake on. Get a few bolts started and then unscrew the two studs. The intake port sizes are pretty much the same except for some of the race stuff.

CRUZE 418 said:

Don't think the port size of the gasket will matter that much. I just used metal intake gaskets on the stock 318 I just built, it's all that I had room for, a 1213 would have been too thick. To help setting the intake down, I cut 2 3/8th" bolts down to about an 1" or less, cut a screwdriver slot on one end. Then screw them into the end holes on one head a turn or two. They will be a guide or target when setting your intake on. Get a few bolts started and then unscrew the two studs. The intake port sizes are pretty much the same except for some of the race stuff.

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So what would your guess be go with the 272 intake set to match the heads or the 340 to match the intake I discussed it with my machinist the other day abut had a brain fart

What intake were you going to use? You may or may not have a lot of choice, set the intake you have on and see how much room you have between the head and intake. Your not going to pull the heads to match the intake, it will run just fine. You should see how off my 318 ports were, I just put it back together the way the factory did. It will be fine. Just get the gasket set that will work for you.

IMO, you will have much better results with a small-port intake on smallport heads.Having experienced the difference first hand, I would never again put a big-port intake on small-port heads. Response time at low-rpm, with small on small is wicked-fast. I would even put a small-port,small-plenum single plain on the small-ports before I would install a bigport intake.
Yes it will run fine with big on small, if fine is acceptable to you.

I would agree, it sounded like he already had the intake.