Not getting 12 volts to coil

When you started to help me, all I wanted was ignition on start, by getting enough volts to the + coil, thinking my engine may take a little more volts than, say, a 273 V8. I thought my ignition switch might be bad, but you showed me to do some tests with the column connector under the steering column, which indicated the ignition switch was OK.
This conclusion was a major milestone, since I did not need to pull the wheel..etc.

I got sufficient Ign 2 circuit voltage that by cleaning the steering column start (Ign2) and run-related (Ign1) wires at the bulkhead connector. (One male connector was not hooked in, but I got it to hook up.) Now, I guess the next step is the Ign 1, run circuit, since the car won't keep running. The first direct voltage test with everything hooked up showed 2 volts. With the voltage regulator unhooked, the voltage drop reduced to 1.7. With the voltage regulator hooked back up and the + coil wire disconnected, the direct voltage drop was 1.1. (By direct voltage drop, I mean the + voltmeter wire on the Blue wire end of the ballast resistor and the - voltmeter on the + battery terminal.) I have not done the alternator field voltage drop test yet. I think this test might cover the funky hook-up plastic connector, which has the blue wire's female connector too far back in the broken plastic connector, when looking at the unhooked connector. With the volt regulaltor unhooked and the + coil wire unhooked, I read .70 volt drop with the key before run, and .32 drop with key in run.